Ruger GP-100 question

P

PPQ226guy

New member
Hi All,

Just a quick, revolver newbie question about the GP-100...

I know they are very robust, but is there any difference in strength between the blued and stainless models?

Thanks in advance!
 
Bad news.

Any GP 100s test fired in February needs to sent to my house for further evaluation. Make sure to include a couple hundered rounds and package of beef jerky. I'll supply the soda.
 
I have the 6", trust me your gonna love the gun, Just wish I could carry it everywhere i went, like some people do their dogs.
 
Thanks to all. I rarely see a blued one so I picked it up. Seems it will take hot loads as wella as a stainless model... I hope!
 
Love my 6" full lug stainless as well...I would have done the same as you. They are heavy but built like tanks.
GP100grip.JPG
 
Last edited:
I think you'd hurt yourself long before you hurt your gp100. Congrats on your purchase. I'm still kicking myself for not buying the exact gp100 I've been on the lookout for. My second favorite local gun shop had one. It was thirty bucks more than what my favorite local gun shop asked for them when they had them. Keywords: WHEN THEY HAD THEM. That night I said to myself I said "Self, it's only thirty bucks. Your bar tab often exceeds that. Get back there tomorrow after work and buy it ya big dummy!" Of course a wiser man had beaten me to it :(

Enjoy it!
 
I have no way to verify the veracity of this comment, nor do I have any idea if it applies to the GP100 line.

That said, many years ago, I was talking with a fellow shooter and he mentioned that he had managed to destroy a Ruger Redhawk revolver with a badly constructed handload. Ruger offered to replace the gun at factory cost in spite of the fact that it was clearly (and admittedly) the shooter's fault. The customer service rep suggested that the shooter choose a blued Redhawk because he stated that the blued steel alloy that they used was somewhat stronger than the stainless steel alloy used in that gun.

Interestingly enough, around the same time, I came across some technical data for Beretta pistols, and they claimed that their stainless steel was about 30% stronger than the blued steel they used in their pistols. Just mentioned that to point out that there are a lot of variables. It's a mistake to assume that a statement like the one made by the Ruger customer service rep can be taken as a general truth applying to all items made from blued steel or stainless steel.
 
I've owned several Ruger revolvers and loved them. Just got my first GP-100 and am having trouble with the trigger not returning after pull. Have to nudge it forward again with my finger. Doesn't happen every time, only once in a while. I e-mailed Ruger and they said to send it back in. :( First problem I've had with one of their guns but I'm sure they'll make it right.
 
There are two practical differences.

The stainless gun won't rust as easily. Duh. :)

The blue gun however has an advantage if you ever want to swap the barrel over for a caliber conversion. A blue setup is easier to unscrew without ruining the threads on either the frame or barrel. Unscrewing a stainless setup is iffy because they can "gall"...basically the threads can become useless.

Note the words "can". But this is why you see more caliber conversions on blued Ruger single actions than stainless, and why I bought my 2005-era New Vaquero in blue as a 357Magnum knowing that as a tinkerer I was likely to one day swap barrels. I did it, too...it's now a true 9mm (.355" spec, Douglas Premium blank).
 
I love mine

I have a blued GP-100 w/6" heavy underbarrel, even max 158 grain loads are a pleasure to shoot from it.
 
I've owned several Ruger revolvers and loved them. Just got my first GP-100 and am having trouble with the trigger not returning after pull. Have to nudge it forward again with my finger. Doesn't happen every time, only once in a while. I e-mailed Ruger and they said to send it back in. First problem I've had with one of their guns but I'm sure they'll make it right.
Click to expand...

The trigger return spring fits in a drilled channel. I bet the channel has a metal shaving or a burr that is causing the spring to bind up. Removing the trigger group and checking the spring is about a ten minute job and takes only one screw driver to remove the grip panels.
 
Hot Loads in GP 100

I can tell you I have fired a lot of 125 gr JHP out of my GP100 with zero issues-I wouldn't do that with my Model 19 S&W or my Python.The old S&W N frames are no sweat with hot rounds either(27&28).The Rugers aren't small,but they are rugged to a fault-FWIW they also have the most naturally intuitive cylinder release-the Smiths aren't as good with the need to push forward and forget Colt-pulling the release back is unnatural under stress.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top