Im trying to dissassemble my new model blackhawk .45 colt for a complete cleaning and inspection. This is the first time ive attempted this on this gun and the screws that hold the grip frame to "main?" frame are too tight im afraid of striping them. Any tips appreciated alot.
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ruger blackhawk screws stuck
- Thread starter gotguns?
- Start date
Hold the gun is a steady rest, like a padded vise, rather than on a table-top or your knees - and use properly fitted, gunsmith screwdrivers that completely fill the screw slots.
Ruger uses a small dot of nylon (NyLok screws), lodged in the side of the threaded area of the screws (or used to) to keep them tight, but they might just be a little "stuck" from never being removed before.
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Ruger uses a small dot of nylon (NyLok screws), lodged in the side of the threaded area of the screws (or used to) to keep them tight, but they might just be a little "stuck" from never being removed before.
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After letting the offending screw sit with Kroil for a few days, with the gun in an appropriate vise, using the appropriate gun smith screw driver, apply the screw driver to the slot, rap on the end of the screw driver handle a couple of times smartly with a plastic/nylon hammer to loosen the screw.
If the screw does not turn with appropriate pressure, do not force it...if you snap one side of the screw head off, you are going to have to drill out the rest of the screw.
If, after the above procedures, the screw still does not want to come out, it has likely been red-loctited, and I would recommend just leaving it alone. Put the gun back together, and use it the way it is. Because, it is not broken...do not continue to try to fix it. If the day comes where you have to remove those screws, apply some heat to soften the loctite...consult with a gun smith/Ruger first.
If the screw does not turn with appropriate pressure, do not force it...if you snap one side of the screw head off, you are going to have to drill out the rest of the screw.
If, after the above procedures, the screw still does not want to come out, it has likely been red-loctited, and I would recommend just leaving it alone. Put the gun back together, and use it the way it is. Because, it is not broken...do not continue to try to fix it. If the day comes where you have to remove those screws, apply some heat to soften the loctite...consult with a gun smith/Ruger first.
Re: removing screws
Ditto on the above (especially PB Blaster). However I you really feel the need to remove the screw and none of the above is working you might try heating the screw with the tip of a soldering iron. It will take a while for the heat to reach the end of the screw but this will free the screw if it is held in by plastic or loctite. Depending on the type of grips you may not want to apply heat but some polymers and wood won't be hurt by the amount of heat required to loosen the loctite.
Ditto on the above (especially PB Blaster). However I you really feel the need to remove the screw and none of the above is working you might try heating the screw with the tip of a soldering iron. It will take a while for the heat to reach the end of the screw but this will free the screw if it is held in by plastic or loctite. Depending on the type of grips you may not want to apply heat but some polymers and wood won't be hurt by the amount of heat required to loosen the loctite.
Proper disassembly means first removing any grips - so a pin can be put through the lower end of the mainspring stud, after cocking the revolver. (and after first double-checking that's it's empty, of course)
That does two things.
Removing the grips also removes them from the work area, besides giving access to the lockwork.
Installing the pin & lowering the hammer captures the mainspring and removes pressure between the cylinder frame & the gripframe.
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That does two things.
Removing the grips also removes them from the work area, besides giving access to the lockwork.
Installing the pin & lowering the hammer captures the mainspring and removes pressure between the cylinder frame & the gripframe.
.