bamaranger
New member
I have long been a fan of the old model (tube feed) .44 carbine, despite it's quirks and find it enough gun for the type of deer hunting I do with a rifle. One of the quirks on my carbines is so-so accuracy. Much of this is related to a pair of issues. One is the barrel twist rate an there is not much can be done about that, at least affordably, other than experiment with bullet weights.
The other accuracy robbing feature is how the rifle is bedded, or more correctly, their lack of bedding. The barreled action is held in the stock by a hooked receiver fitting in a mortise/action block at the rear and secured up front by a barrel band to the forend. I read that arrangement is much like the WWII M-1 .30 carbine. I think much of the accuracy issues I am working on presently with my scoped .44 is related to wonky barrel band tension and torque on the receiver due to a wonky receiver block /stock fit. My .44 is displaying a vertical stringing issue after coming out of the safe on "vacation for a couple of seasons. Working from a magazine article from 1974 (provided by one of our members) I have begun the glass bedding process for the stubborn carbine. But the process has raised two questions in my mind.
1) In the beginning of production of the .44 carbine there were several variations, including a "Sporter", with a finger grooved stock and NO BARREL BAND. So ....how was the barreled action attached to the stock? Seems to me their would almost have to be a forend screw running up into the gas block or a barrel lug to hold things together up front. I don't intend to go that far modifying my carbine, but it would likely solve the wonky barrel band issue. My onliine search yields only parts diagrams for the "Standard" barrel band model. If somebody has a "Sporter" can you describe how things were attached up front?
2) Since the .44 carbine is assembled much like the M-1 .30 carbine, and the M1 carbine could be shot in certain target competition ( seems like I read that) , might there be some accuracy tricks for the M1 carbine that could serve as ideas for plumbing my bullet hose?
The other accuracy robbing feature is how the rifle is bedded, or more correctly, their lack of bedding. The barreled action is held in the stock by a hooked receiver fitting in a mortise/action block at the rear and secured up front by a barrel band to the forend. I read that arrangement is much like the WWII M-1 .30 carbine. I think much of the accuracy issues I am working on presently with my scoped .44 is related to wonky barrel band tension and torque on the receiver due to a wonky receiver block /stock fit. My .44 is displaying a vertical stringing issue after coming out of the safe on "vacation for a couple of seasons. Working from a magazine article from 1974 (provided by one of our members) I have begun the glass bedding process for the stubborn carbine. But the process has raised two questions in my mind.
1) In the beginning of production of the .44 carbine there were several variations, including a "Sporter", with a finger grooved stock and NO BARREL BAND. So ....how was the barreled action attached to the stock? Seems to me their would almost have to be a forend screw running up into the gas block or a barrel lug to hold things together up front. I don't intend to go that far modifying my carbine, but it would likely solve the wonky barrel band issue. My onliine search yields only parts diagrams for the "Standard" barrel band model. If somebody has a "Sporter" can you describe how things were attached up front?
2) Since the .44 carbine is assembled much like the M-1 .30 carbine, and the M1 carbine could be shot in certain target competition ( seems like I read that) , might there be some accuracy tricks for the M1 carbine that could serve as ideas for plumbing my bullet hose?
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