Ruger 1911 hammer play?

R

redlightrich

New member
Hello all, I have a SR1911 that when I remove the slide, and place the hammer in the down, or unloaded of spring pressure position, has about 1/8" of play before I feel spring pressure, when attempting to cock the hammer. This play is only evident with the slide removed. When the slide is on, it acts like every other 1911 I have tested this on, which is spring pressure on the hammer with any rearward movement.

Ignition has been fully reliable. Even if I add a 22 conversion kit, ignition is positive.

If this is a normal SR1911 condition, then that would mean the area in front of the hammer is machined deeper than other 1911s. If not, it could be a host of things.

Does anyone have a full size SR1911 that they would care to remove the slide and check this for comparison.

Mine is a Talo, with the rail, if that makes a difference. Yes, the frame is different for the Talo, but I would think that only the rail is the different part, but I have been wrong before.

Thank you for any help you can offer

Rich
 
This is not the case on all 1911s, but it's not at all uncommon and of no concern.
The variation is likely due to slight variations in hammer strut length.
 
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It could be a number of things, from strut length, to the thickness of the mainspring cap, or even the location of the hole for the cap pin.

As long as the hammer is being driven all the way to the firing pin, no big deal.
 
Two points:
First, why does it matter to you if some parts seem to move slightly differently when the gun is partially disassembled????

about 1/8" of play before I feel spring pressure,
Click to expand...

Second, ok, fine, but "feel" might be a key word here. If you want to play with it, there is a comparison you can do. With the slide off and the hammer down as you describe, tilt the frame so the hammer is subject to gravity, and see if it moves that 1/8" of its own weight. If it doesn't then there is some tension on it, whether you can feel it, or not.

IT might be the mainspring, but there are OTHER parts (also under spring tension) that bear on the hammer as well. The sear is one, and could be more than enough to keep the hammer from "falling" that 1/8" before the resistance of the mainspring is a factor.

Strip the frame, and insert just the hammer on its pin, place the hammer "down", then tilt the frame muzzle up. The hammer, with no other parts involved, will flop back of its own weight. Repeat the process with all parts EXCEPT the mainspring installed and the hammer goes nowhere.

Simply put, don't sweat that 1/8" movement where you can't feel some spring tension. It is there, you just aren't able to discern it.
 
The 1911 pistol is normally set up so the lowered hammer is free of spring tension when the slide is removed. The reason for that is that if the hammer is dropped with the slide off, it will not hit the frame with full force, possibly damaging it.

Jim
 
James K said:
The 1911 pistol is normally set up so the lowered hammer is free of spring tension when the slide is removed. The reason for that is that if the hammer is dropped with the slide off, it will not hit the frame with full force, possibly damaging it.
Click to expand...
It also makes installing the mainspring housing much easier.
 
Well, I didn't think I was "freaking out" about this. I was inquiring though.

My other 1911's, when the slide is removed, have the hammer held against the frame with spring tension.

My Ruger hammer does move back under it's own weight, the 1/8th inch, but I will say, it fires and reacts just fine.

I was just curious if this is a normal condition. I will not worry about it!!

Thank you all

Rich
 
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