Ruger 10/22

No more new production full auto for civilian in US...

There are many pre-86 in the market, but they are in the rnage of $4500+. There are basically two types of full-auto 10/22's: open-bolt and close-bolt. Close-bolt shoots "cleaner" than the open version. Neither is a simple "drop-in trigger group". Due to the design of basic 10/22, most of 10/22 need extensive modification for both the trigger group and bolt.
Also, most of the full auto 10/22 are pretty fast (~1000+ rpm, but who cares! 22 ammo is cheap!:) ). Norvell (sp?) makes one that you can adjust the cyclic rate and it's a close-bolt design. Go to some C-3 boards and/or ask your local C-3 dealers for more info.
 
It makes more sense to convert a M-16 to shoot 22LR than to buy a pre 86' 10/22. A registered sear or receiver gun (AR or M-16) cost about $4000 and a conversion kit cost peanuts. It's the better way to go.

Robert
 
Thanks fellas, I was just curious cause I have never shot a full auto anything, & thought the 10/22 would be a cool choice if it was possible to convert. but sounds expensive,
illegal & I'd hate to mess mine up
............Thanks
 
It's illegal

and it's discussed in Mark White's Ultimate 10/22 book. You can also make one accidentally if you stone the hammer angle wrong. I had a 10/22 go auto for four shots after some trigger work someone did for me. Quite startling.

Regards.

[Edited by Ledbetter on 02-16-2001 at 05:06 PM]
 
Besides being legal, conversions must be safe for the operator. The auto-sear feature in many full autos serve as a trip which discharges the gun only when it's safe (bolt forward enough to ensure lockup). Overstoning the sear or hammer can produce full auto, but no safe full auto. It may work, but it can also damage or destroy the gun and injure the operator (or those nearby).
 
Legal Bullet Hose:

There are several devices out there that will make the 10/22 fire rapidly in a legal manner. The best of these (I've tried 4 different ones) is the GAT trigger crank system. This is a well-made assembly that uses a cam-type crank combined with a trigger bar that contacts the bottom of the trigger. As you turn the crank, the bar moves in and out firing the gun four times per turn of the crank. Check it out at:

http://www.ar15.com/products/triggers/gat/

trigger.gif


You can find them at http://www.gunbroker.com if you do a search under GAT. The going rate is $27 delivered. Don't get the BMF activator or any of the hellfire, hellstorm, etc. types of 'inertia' trigger devices. These are finicky and difficult to get working properly.

The GAT is an excellent way to satisfy your need to burn up a brick of ammunition in about twenty minutes. Good luck.
 
There are two ways to rock 'n roll a 10/22

First (and cheapest), buy a select fire conversion book from Paladin Press (for academic study only!), commit a felony and convert the gun in your garage. Beware when neighbors call the cops or the off duty cop at your range asks for paperwork. If you get busted, you will almost certianly see jail time. Your ass will then get the opportunity to be intimate with characters named Bubba and Leon.

Second (and most expensive), look around for a John Norrell conversion. He makes the best closed bolt conversion out there. Typically running $4,500 - $5,000 now. His sear is made of hardened tool steel and and will last forever. His own guns have fired over 300k rounds. His set up is truly stealthy: a small button drilled into the upper face of the trigger. Press the lower portion of the trigger and fire it semi, raise the finger to cover the button and buzzzzzzz. Cyclic rate is about 800-1000 rpm depending on ammo and whether a suppressor is being used.

John Norrell has also patented his modifications to the bolt and trigger pack to control bolt bounce. He adds a counter-weight to the bolt and a spring-loaded plunger to the trigger pack. A very neat and functional modification.

Add to it an integral suppressor and you have a gun that sounds like a muffled sewing machine on steroids. Best off, it looks like any other bull barrel 10/22. But when you get the urge you can step into the backyard and dump a mag into a phone book and the neighbors are none wiser. Plinking in the woods attracts no attention. Remember to always be sure of your target and backstop, especially if firing in the backyard.

The setup can be ammo brand sensitive. Look at it this way, a full auto sear has been added, modifications to the bolt have been made, a suppressor can be added and a variety of hi-cap mags can be used. A lot of new things relative to a stock 10/22 are going on. It generally likes quality CCI, W-W or R-P ammo. You may have to try a few brands of subsonics until you find one the particular gun likes. But hey, ammo is cheap and you and always shoot it in your semi.

It can be a pricey setup (welcome to the world of class 3!)
$4,500 for a trigger pack, $800 for an STW one-piece titanium suppressor (very trick) and $1,500 for two dozen hi-cap mags and $400 in transfer taxes for two stamps. Oh and lets not forget $150 at Walmart for the base 10/22 rifle.

You also open up the whole world of 10/22 aftermarket parts and accessories. I added a weaver rail so I can mount a Bushnell Holosight or a Trijicon compact ACOG. A Volquartsen bolt release and extend mag release are very functional. When I want to hear the gun, I slip on a Volquartsen THM carbon fiber barrel - full auto is when the 32-hole compensator seems to make sense.

If you can, make the plunge. This is a very controllable full auto, so it is accurate out to 50 - 100 yards, it is stealthy both sonically and visually. And it is cheap to shoot! It is a great gun to introduce non-shooters and non-class 3 folks to the world of full auto; very non-threating, sporter look, light/no recoil and again, cheap ammo. It will quickly become your favorite gun. It is a

It is that reason why you may have a hard time finding one for sale - owners generally love theirs and do not want to part with it. Try a WTB post on subguns.com


[Edited by psp on 03-09-2001 at 08:15 AM]
 
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