Ruger 10/22 problem

S

Scott H

Inactive
I recently got a Ruger 10/22 and finally got the chance to shoot it this weekend. I have an intermitant misfire problem and that occurs at random. Additionally, the weapon fired as I chambered a round (it was on safty). I think the problem is caused by the hook that wraps around the back of the round. There seems to be enough tension on it that it either stops the bolt from coming all the way forward or it fires the round as the bolt slams forward into the cartridge.

Can I somehow weaken the spring and reduce the tension on this hook or will that cause additional problems. I think by weakening the spring, the hook will have less resistance and wrap arround the shell as it is supposed to do.

I also have occasional jams but I think this may be due to the hook not releasing the shell after firing. Any comments or ideas are appreciated.


Scott


Ruger 10/22, Federal (cheap) ammo, Target Hammer, 3-9 40mm scope, Pistol Grip stock, 25rnd clip
 
Before modifying anything (DON'T mess with the extractor (hook) spring tension; you'll cause more problems than you can imagine, and that's DEFINATELY not causing the slam- fires), tear the gun all the way down (except forthe trigger group) and absolutely hose it down with gun scrubber, and a good brush. It may actually be that dirty, or have congealed grease gumming things up. Always start with the cheap, simple fixes ;). As for the discharge when the bold goes into battery, the target hammer may be the cause. In some older (looser) guns, these don't always match the sear surface well enough to fully cock every time, especially if you're using the original sear. The hammer may also need to be shimmed, and/or an oversize pin installed, to center it completely. I'm just taking random guesses, here, so try the cleaning of a lifetime first and go from there. Hope this helps a little. Good Luck & Take Care- Dakotan
 
I already gave it a good cleaning and the problems started within the first ten rounds. Why are you so sure that the extractor isn't the problem? Would it be okay to take the extractor out of my dad's gun and try it in mine? His works fine.

Thanks,

Scott
 
One more question- could the cambering fire problem be ammo related? If the ammo isn't powerful enough to bring the bolt back to fully cock the hammer- the hammer would fall on the next round. Also, if the bolt doesn't come all the way back, then the shell won't extract properly (jamming problem).

Thanks,
Scott
 
Scott, I think you've found your answer. Try some CCI mini mags. That's what I use for test purposes on all .22LRs that I work on. George
 
SAGE advice, George. Mini-Mags work in virtually EVERYTHING. Scott, as for why the extractor probably isn't the problem; unless it is jammed forward and won't move at all, it simply can't begin to match the kind of pressure that the firing pin applies to the cartridge rim. If you can still pull the extractor outward, and it moves without catching, it should be ok. Lots of people have asked me that in the shop, and if I just happen to have an assembled action with the barrel removed around, I have them just lightly (or tightly; their choice ;)) hold their index finger over the breech face, and dry fire the gun. Invariably, they come away with a sore finger. It really hits THAT hard; especially in the 10/22! By the way, I learned that one the hard way, myself :(. Hard to do this long distance, so I guess I'd take George's advice, and maybe try another ammo brand (or two) as well. I've had SURPRISINGLY good luck with Federal's "American Eagle" 38 grain copper-plated hollow points. They shoot and function well in every rimfire I own, BUT definately try the Mini-Mags FIRST. They are the MOST consistent rimfire rounds out there. Hopefully that will be your answer. Good Luck & Take Care- Dakotan
 
If the problem persists, I personally would ship the gun back to Ruger rather than do anything to it myself. Ruger's service department is not perfect, but on the whole it does a good job and it should be able to zero in on the problem and take care of it for you. My $0.02.
 
Also check to make sure that the extractor is centered in the little cutout in the barrel when the action closes. I had mine a little off center when I reinstalled a new barrel after working it and a burr started to rise from the extractor hitting the outside edge of this cutout in the barrel.

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An X is still an X with a Quarter Inch group at 100 yards
With a Quarter Inch Group on the keyboard an X could be - Z,S,D, or C.
I am a quarter inch typist - Please excuse the errors!
 
Well, I figured it all out. I tried a few different types of 22LR ammo and discovered that the only ammo that didn't jam was Remington Gold-High Velocity. The Federal and Winchester ammo just wasn't powerful enough to work the action correctly. As for the gun firing on safty- I had installed a Volquartsen target hammer which doesnt lock up against the sear correctly when the gun is on safty. If I chamber a round with the safty off, there is no problem. However, if I chamber a round with the safty on- the hammer falls. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this. I really like the reduced trigger pull the hammer provides, however I don't want to sacrifice safty.

Thanks,

Scott
 
Since a gunsmith trigger job only costs from around $40-60, I'd get the trigger done professionally. You'll end up with a much better trigger with no creep, and you won't be risking an AD with an unsafe gun.
 
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