rough barrel
- Thread starter bullet44
- Start date
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Bullet44, you can lap the barrel but if it's a standard issue bbl, Colt, Springfield, GI etc you'd save money by replacing it. If it's an expensive match grade barrel you might consider it but have it done. It's easy to go too far and remove too much metal turning your groups into patterns. George
Hart Industries Defense
Moderator
Obviously you have not been cleaning your gun again. Cleanliness is next to godliness. I clean my gun after every 50 rounds; in fact, I take people to the range to fire my ammo out while I clean clean and clean some more. During a 6 hour shooting session; I will probably clean my gun at least 5 times, once after each couple of magazines.
Cleaning is essential. Bullet and powder residue will accumulate of course. Just keep cleaning. You also need to dunk your guns in oil 10-40 auto oil is okay. And you need to clean lubricate and clean your ammo. Remmember, clean, lubricate, and then clean again (final cleaning to remove any cleaning lint and oil is extremely important for your safety and survival).
Buy only the best ammo; no reloads, quality check all ammo and date your boxes. Fill out the military manuals and forms to keep track of your shooting record per gun and ammo usage. Safety dictates that you follow military procedures.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bullet44:
colt 45 acp has a rough place in the
barrel about half inch from chamber,
I clean it looks clean then after a
few rounds this appears again. The gun
is very accurate, I do use lead reloads.
anyway to polish this out without damage
to barrel.?
[/quote]
------------------
Cleaning is essential. Bullet and powder residue will accumulate of course. Just keep cleaning. You also need to dunk your guns in oil 10-40 auto oil is okay. And you need to clean lubricate and clean your ammo. Remmember, clean, lubricate, and then clean again (final cleaning to remove any cleaning lint and oil is extremely important for your safety and survival).
Buy only the best ammo; no reloads, quality check all ammo and date your boxes. Fill out the military manuals and forms to keep track of your shooting record per gun and ammo usage. Safety dictates that you follow military procedures.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bullet44:
colt 45 acp has a rough place in the
barrel about half inch from chamber,
I clean it looks clean then after a
few rounds this appears again. The gun
is very accurate, I do use lead reloads.
anyway to polish this out without damage
to barrel.?
[/quote]
------------------
George Hill
Staff Alumnus
While a clean gun is important - it being properly lubricated is also just as important. Too much lube and your gun will get dirty much faster. Dunking in lube is just wasting your own time. In an all day session of shooting - I will only clean the gun MAYBE once on the range. Oil collects dirt and dust - MR Hart, if you backed off the lube and cleaning, I bet you could get a lot more shooting done.
It's nice to be clean, but you don't get rough spots in the barrel from failure to clean multiple times during a single shooting session.
Best suggestion is to make absolutely sure that there's not some residual lead that's sticking in that spot. There are some superior lead-removal kits, but one of my favorites for easiness and cheapness is to unravel a copper Choreboy and wrap some of it around a copper/bronze brush that is about used up. That stuff will pull out a LOT of stuff you didn't think was still in the bore.
Lubing your ammo beyond hard lube that's already on your bullet can and will result in hang-fires and misfires. Failure to fire from penetrating oil in the primer is very common, and easily avoided; DON'T LUBE YOUR AMMO.
"Quality military ammo" has sometimes been, through the ages, corrosive. There's nothing wrong with quality reloads.
Dunking your pistol in motor oil will certainly help to keep it from rusting... and to keep you from ever ever ever firing it again. If I were to put a gun up for 10 years in Burma, I'd consider that option, as it's not too different from cosmoline. However, for standard storage, a light sheen of oil over everything is best for protection.
It isn't obvious that bullet44 ever failed to clean his gun, but it may well be that he missed a particularly cantankerous spot of lead. (I hope! Don't give up hope!
) And... "again"??? Mr. Hart Industries, do you personally know bullet44? Why do you say "again?"
Steering clear of personal judgement...
L.P.
Best suggestion is to make absolutely sure that there's not some residual lead that's sticking in that spot. There are some superior lead-removal kits, but one of my favorites for easiness and cheapness is to unravel a copper Choreboy and wrap some of it around a copper/bronze brush that is about used up. That stuff will pull out a LOT of stuff you didn't think was still in the bore.
Lubing your ammo beyond hard lube that's already on your bullet can and will result in hang-fires and misfires. Failure to fire from penetrating oil in the primer is very common, and easily avoided; DON'T LUBE YOUR AMMO.
"Quality military ammo" has sometimes been, through the ages, corrosive. There's nothing wrong with quality reloads.
Dunking your pistol in motor oil will certainly help to keep it from rusting... and to keep you from ever ever ever firing it again. If I were to put a gun up for 10 years in Burma, I'd consider that option, as it's not too different from cosmoline. However, for standard storage, a light sheen of oil over everything is best for protection.
It isn't obvious that bullet44 ever failed to clean his gun, but it may well be that he missed a particularly cantankerous spot of lead. (I hope! Don't give up hope!
Steering clear of personal judgement...
L.P.
yep,"old' bullet44 does clean after each
shooting session,I use both jacketed and
cast lead reloads, but have always had a
rough spot in barrel, after cleaning this "spot:will look ok but then when shot again it will retain more fouling then other parts
of the barrel thus I consider this a rough
place in barrel.However this is a very
accurate gun.
Thanks for all the help but I dont think I
will use 10/40. Down here in south texas we
use 20/50 (in our pickups).!
------------------
[This message has been edited by bullet44 (edited April 25, 2000).]
shooting session,I use both jacketed and
cast lead reloads, but have always had a
rough spot in barrel, after cleaning this "spot:will look ok but then when shot again it will retain more fouling then other parts
of the barrel thus I consider this a rough
place in barrel.However this is a very
accurate gun.
Thanks for all the help but I dont think I
will use 10/40. Down here in south texas we
use 20/50 (in our pickups).!
------------------
[This message has been edited by bullet44 (edited April 25, 2000).]
Unkel Gilbey
New member
I had fired my Redhawk using reloaded ammo (240gn lead bullets/no gas checks at moderate velocities) for quite some time. I'd do the after session cleanings like religion, and I started to notice a 'dullness' in the barrel after a while. Taking a clue from an old Gunny, I got ahold of one of those Lead removal kits and ran it down the Bbl. Was truely amazed at the amount of lead that I scraped out of the bore. Either I was getting more velocity out of those rounds then I thought, or I wasn't using enough Hoppes #9! At any rate, I now use the lead removal kit about every 10th session, and my bore is sparkling!
If you can get something like a dental tool, or a scribe in there, try to see if you can remove some of that 'roughness', it just might be some residual leading.
I would echo the comment about NOT lubing your ammo. That was something that Hollywood dreamed up for the movies. Excess 'lube' on the case could possibley cause malfunctions by gumming up the action, AND there is a slight chance that it will effect your cases via a hydraulic process. Try using too much case lube on a rifle case the next time you start to Full length resize your ammo! Those little depressions/creases are proof positive that there was too much lube on the case. What would happen in the chamber of your firearm with your ammo in this condition? I personally wouldn't want to find out.
Also, oil fouling of the primers can occur with standard gun oils - not just penetrants. Don't believe me? Dump some rounds in a cup of 3-in-1 (or 10-W40) over night and see if they will fire (after removing all the oil first - of course!) Lubing your ammo is WRONG! Don't do it!
One last thing, where are all these "Military Procedures" that were mentioned? I've spent the last 16 years in the Corps, and I am not aware of any specific set of 'procedures' about ammo handling and weapons cleaning per say. Every unit interprets the "Regs" differently to the point that two units on the same base can have almost totally different cleaning requirements.
Before anyone spouts off about anything "Official" they should perhaps first mention a reference or some other official publication that can be verified, and then maybe flavor their comments with something like "... in my experience... "
Didn't want this to turn into a flame, but when I see bum gouge being spread, I like to put a stop to it. There are too many folks out there who have little to no experience in the shootng sports, and they're looking here for information and education. If they receive bad/wrong information (bum gouge)from a supposed 'expert' on this forum, it reflects badly on not just that individual - but on the board as a whole. Not to mention that someone could get hurt!!!
It is incumbent upon us to try to pass on only the very best information that we can, or else we will shoot ourselves in our metaphorical feet!
Rant mode <off>
Return fire at will
Unkel Gilbey
If you can get something like a dental tool, or a scribe in there, try to see if you can remove some of that 'roughness', it just might be some residual leading.
I would echo the comment about NOT lubing your ammo. That was something that Hollywood dreamed up for the movies. Excess 'lube' on the case could possibley cause malfunctions by gumming up the action, AND there is a slight chance that it will effect your cases via a hydraulic process. Try using too much case lube on a rifle case the next time you start to Full length resize your ammo! Those little depressions/creases are proof positive that there was too much lube on the case. What would happen in the chamber of your firearm with your ammo in this condition? I personally wouldn't want to find out.
Also, oil fouling of the primers can occur with standard gun oils - not just penetrants. Don't believe me? Dump some rounds in a cup of 3-in-1 (or 10-W40) over night and see if they will fire (after removing all the oil first - of course!) Lubing your ammo is WRONG! Don't do it!
One last thing, where are all these "Military Procedures" that were mentioned? I've spent the last 16 years in the Corps, and I am not aware of any specific set of 'procedures' about ammo handling and weapons cleaning per say. Every unit interprets the "Regs" differently to the point that two units on the same base can have almost totally different cleaning requirements.
Before anyone spouts off about anything "Official" they should perhaps first mention a reference or some other official publication that can be verified, and then maybe flavor their comments with something like "... in my experience... "
Didn't want this to turn into a flame, but when I see bum gouge being spread, I like to put a stop to it. There are too many folks out there who have little to no experience in the shootng sports, and they're looking here for information and education. If they receive bad/wrong information (bum gouge)from a supposed 'expert' on this forum, it reflects badly on not just that individual - but on the board as a whole. Not to mention that someone could get hurt!!!
It is incumbent upon us to try to pass on only the very best information that we can, or else we will shoot ourselves in our metaphorical feet!
Rant mode <off>
Return fire at will
Unkel Gilbey
