Romanian build

Bigfatts

New member
Alright, I decided that since there are no more parts kits being imported that it's time to try building one. I picked up a new Romanian kit. With that being said, no I don't plan on building an automatic and yes, I am aware of the compliance requirements. I've already caught hell from a couple of people about that. The guy I bought it from said it was cut when new and the barrell is pretty enough that I believe him. My question is how do I get the rivets out of the trunions? Do I drill them or heat them and drive them out? I don't have much experience with the Kalashnikov family of weapons so I'm new to all this. Any good web sites people could point me to with pictures and all that would be greatly appreciated. Also, are the Global Trades receivers any good?
 
Rivet romoval

Some guys will grind off one side of the rivet and pound it out with a drift and a big hammer.
Here is my metjhd:
1st grind off the rivet head down to the surface of the frame without marring the frame surface. Then drill the shank of the rivet using a drill that is 50 to 75% of the rivet's diameter to a depth about same as thickness of the frame. Then, using a drift that fits in the drilled hole and contacts the bottom of the drilled hole, you can usually just tap out what's left of the rivet body with no chance of distorting the frame. Takes more time but what is your frame worth if you whack it out of shape?
 
website: http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=77

Rivet removal is the hardest part. I start with a small drill 1/4 the size, cuz I can never get them center. I work bigger until the rivet comes out. If you plan on riveting it back together it won't matter much if you dig into the trunnion a small amount. Need to be a bit more careful if you are going to screw build. When drilling, use a press, go SLOW, and use lots of cutting oil.......
 
Thanx guys. I can't wait to get it finished! I'll let you know how it turns out. Any insights on the Global trades receivers? I've heard they're pretty good.
 
The best,.....Or so I've heard. I've been waiting two months for mine to come in. Supposedly I won't be disappointed.......
 
Ok. I got my receiver (I decided to go with an Ohio Ordnance) and I can't seem to find a tool that will work to install the rivets in the front trunion. How do you builders out there do it/what tools do you use? Any help will be appreciated as I'm new to the whole rivet thing. I was going to use screws but decided to go the traditional route.
 
screw it (no pun intended)

I just finished up an AMD by using screws and j.b. weld. The trunnions are hard, it's important to use tons of oil (wd-40) and a good idea to use a bottoming tap on the front trunnion, since you can't go very deep. I center punched all the rivets and then drilled them out... the tap will eat up any leftover rivet and carry it out for you. When i was ready for assembly, i simply rolled a worm of j.b. and put it down each hole before running the screws in.

Not a pretty as a rivet build, but just as functional and easier in my opinion... I considered the rivet build but shied away when I was considering how to support the front trunnion as the rivets were peened.
 
AK Build

Bigfatts:

O.K. if you have decided to rivet your kit together, the first thing to do is to pull out the barrel. To do this, you must first drive out the barrel retaining pin (left to right). After removing pin, use a small puller (Autozone has them for like $25) to remove barrel. Now you can grind the front trunnion rivet heads off and punch the rivets out of the front trunnion.


***The barrel pin can be a PITA to remove. Some guys use a press. I have had luck on removing my pins by using a large diameter brass punch (3/4" or so) Soak the pin with WD40 overnight and whack away at it until you get some movement. (Using brass will not mar up your trunnion too much) I use big vise-grips to hold the punch. Of course, once it moves, you can then go down to a smaller size punch to remove it.

To do your rivet build, you can buy an 18" set of bolt cutters from Harbor Freight and grind down the jaws to compress your new rivets. The rear rivets can just be set with a hammer and piece of stock with a 1/4" dimple dirlled into it for the rivet head to sit in.

1-install trigger guard to new receiver
2-"fit" front trunnion so mags insert properly
3-rivet front trunnion
3-install barrel
4-"fit" rear trunnion so dust cover latches properly.

Good luck and don't forget to post a pic of your new creation!!!!
 
Thanx for the suggestions guys. I got the rivets in and I just finished Dura Coating it a couple of hours ago. Tomorrow hopefully I'll get it put together and post some pics. Thanx agian.
 
finished!

Well, here's some pics... Finally. Thank you guys for all the help. Here's what it is: New romanian parts kit, Ohio Ordnance receiver, K-var butt stock and pistol grip, Tapco G2 trigger set, AMD-65 lower hand guard, chinese cleaning kit and bayonet. The gas tube is not the one that will be on it permanently, I am on the hunt for one from an AMD-63, the plain one with no retainers for an upper hand guard. Anyone know where I can pick one up reasonably? Receiver, handguard, magazine barrell and all are done in Matte black Dura Coat. The rivets will never win any beauty contests but hey, it's my first build. Next I hope to build an AMD-65, if I ever get over being broke. And not to start an uproar or open a can of worms or anything but I was thinking of trying a screw build. Who knows? I'll just have to wait and see.

guns007.jpg


guns003.jpg


guns008.jpg


145cea8d.jpg
 
Purdy tuff man! I like it. I did an AMD-65 clone out of a Romy too. I used the AMD buttstock though. I did have to weld it open because I messed up the folder, but it still looks good.

You can grind off that upper retainer if you have a dremel. It is not very hard to do. When I did mine I had to spot weld the lower retainer (so it resembled the AMD65) to hold the lower hg in place.

All of my current and future ones are screw builds. Nothing wrong with that. Just make sure you use red locktite for final assembly.
 
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