Roadblocks for first AR build

[gizmo688]

I just got to putting everything together tonight and im encountering some issues.

1st) My Hoque pistol grip package is missing the screw and washer. Does anyone know the thread/length of screw so I can go pick one up from the hardware store?

2nd)The bolt catch spring (brownells) wont fit into the hole on the receiver (Palmetto). I spent a little time gringing out the hole, but they are just too far apart. Can anyone recommend a solution and/or a brand of spring that they know works with PSA lowers?

3rd)I have a low profile handguard and ordered a fat Yankee Hill barrel nut. D'oh! I'm going to order the correct one once I figure out this bolt catch spring issue.

Any help would be appreciated

Edit: And of course I must include a picture!

 

[DnPRK]

1) Its 1/4-28 with a 1" shank
2) Did you mix up the disconnector spring and bolt release spring? The disconnector spring has a wide end that traps it in the recess in the trigger.

A little gunsmithing tip...always modify the cheapest part. In your case, you should not grind on the expensive receiver when a simple modification to a cheap spring can be made.

 

[HiBC]

Nice looking rifle.On opening up that hole dia,you were given good advise.Here is a little more.When it stops being fun,put it down.Come back later.Take time to ask somebody."Getting a bigger hammer" usually is not a good plan building guns.

Now,I'm a little curious on your barrel nut question.Maybe I do not understand.The barrel nut is the one you torque to the upper receiver that holds the barrel in the receiver.It is ordinarily a part of the railed forend assy .The forend then screws on to the barrel nut.Looks to me like you have it assembled on the barrel nut now.

YHM does make an end cap that screws into their forend tubes behind the gas block.Might that be what you are talking about?If it is,I think you will be disappointed if you order another barrel nut.I suggest you identify the mfgr of your forend and contact them for anything to fit that forend.

On the pistol grip,I do not think they shorted you.Usually you have to buy the screw.

I bet it shoots good when you are done.

What trigger did you use?If it is GI,a Rock River two stage NM trigger is pretty darn good for about $120.A Gisselle enhanced is about double that,but real good.

Rock River is also a pretty good place to look at a scope ringmount.

 

[gizmo688]

Thanks guys. I knew the cheapest part rule but it was oh so close. The spring came with a bolt catch assembly kit, so the stubborn part of me refuses to believe its the wrong spring.

The handguard is just sitting there, not attached. There isnt a barrel nut installed in that picture.
What I ordered:

What I need:

The hoque package has a molded space that i figured was for the screw. Maybe it doesnt come included. Im new to all of this.

HiBC you nailed it. 2 stage Rock river nm trigger group.

 

[HiBC]

OK,now I understand.
Try this on for thought.(Then do it your way,its your rifle)

The marriage of the forend,the upper receiver and the barrel is accomplished with the barrel nut.Look real close at the YHM and then look at the one you have.Which one looks stronger,more rigid?

That molded groove you refer to is likely where forend setscrews squeeze on the barrel nut ....pretty thin stock at the bottom of that groove,and how many threads in aluminum are in the thin wall of the forend?Are you intending to mout a sight on the forend rail ever?See how this all matters to accuracy?

Not to mention how annoyed you will be with a forend that moves as the setscrews loosen up.

Darn!!Now,on a YHM,a thicker walled section of the forend threads on that long,strong section of threads on that big,rigid nut.When that nut is installed carefully,it is indexed so when you look through the upper and the nut,a BCG view,you will see the features that are the gas tube path are as perfectly centered as your eyes can see.That helps your gas tube and BCG to find each other with no wear.

When indexed true,like that,all those tapered notches will line up for the tapered set screws that lock the forend tube on the nut.Threads are beefy .

There is also a threaded lock ring that jams against the rear of the tube.The YHM system is quite strong and rigid.

You might try looking at their site and looking at the "smooth" tube.See what you think.You already have a nut,call them ,ask what you can do.Their forend complete assy's are $130 or 140,or less than half the price of a lot of them.

I use YHM,and I'm happy.

 

[gizmo688]

Yeah I got the YHM nut because it looked sturdier than the standard nut. But the Troy handguard I have now is definitely what I want. One of my musts was low profile with the continuous top rail.

I plan on mounting the sight on the upper, but having the mounting system barely overlap the handguard/upper joint. That and some threadlock should hold the forend in place pretty well.