ROA Question?

B

bushrod2

New member
Thinking of getting a loading stand the kind where you put the cylinder on it and load all the cylinders then back into the frame. Is there a way of keeping Rugers loading mechanism from coming apart in pieces while I'm putting the cylinder in and out??? Figured you guys would know.
 
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It's the price that you pay for historical inaccuracy...no, no, I mean for owning such a fine firearm!

(Oh look, a hornet's nest!:D)
 
Geez. Come on, guys. I mean, it's 3 (three) parts, for pity's sake.

I intentionally take them apart when I remove the cylinder, and I put them back together when I install the cylinder. Haven't broken any fingers or needed any stitches yet...
 
When you put a transmission back together

you can hold the roller bearings in place with a little grease. I thought about using this technique with those parts but I figured it would be too messy.

I just let it fall apart and then put it back together. No matter how many times I do it, I always put the plunger back in upside down. It happens virtually every time. It is the way my mind works.
 
bushrod2, that's why I don't use a cylinder loading stand. The loading lever that comes with the ROA works great.

However, if you REALLY, REALLY, REALLY want the easiest solution then....

Get yourself a Belt Mountain base pin.

ROARetainingPin021.jpg
 
ClemBert's fancy base pin is very nice; but, the thumb grip on his twist pin is the secret to facilitating ROA cylinder removal.
 
i thought about buying a .45colt cylinder for my ROA,s, but i had this blackhawk in 45 colt/45 ACP in my gun room so i passed on one. i guess if you need a slow loading cylinder in 45 colt it,s ok. if both guns are shot empty i think i could load a black powder roa with one hole charged before a 45 colt cylinder could be taken out and reloaded and reinserted. one of you guys should try to reload as fast as you can and see. eastbank.
 
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Thanks for all the CONSIDERATE replys , not the smart A** ones.It's kind of a tough thing to do when you only have one arm.
 
Why not just use the stock Ruger base pin without the loading lever and plunger if you are loading the cylinder on a loading stand?:confused:
 
I think...

...that the real value in the modification that Clem came up with is in the toggle and not necessarily in the pin. BLE has a good solution if it is a real problem.
 
Thats what I intend to do. Use the factory basepin without the loading lever and plunger. Or the loading lever and basepin without the plunger which is the real culprit and keeps falling off. Ill see which works best, Thanks for your ideas
 
I shoot mine minus the loading lever and plunger in cap and ball revolver matches mostly because this horse-pistol is heavy and every ounce of weight removed helps when you are trying to shoot a good bullseye score.
 
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