Right Choice for a Cap & Ball Revolver
- Thread starter dlbarr
- Start date
Cimmaron and EMF are retailers...not manufacturers.
Cimmaron suposedly fine tunes and 'adjusts' the revolvers they retail.
I can't speak to the EMF line.
Major Manufacturers are Uberti and Pietta. (new)
Uberti's are generally more expensive than Pietta's.
Some folks feel Uberti quality is (marginally) better than Pietta
I have several Piettas, and all are of great quality.
The original 1851 was in .36 only.
The .44 is a modern "development" ?.. not historically "correct"...
Both are fun...
Me..being cheap.. I opt for the Piettas...
Hope this helps.
Cimmaron suposedly fine tunes and 'adjusts' the revolvers they retail.
I can't speak to the EMF line.
Major Manufacturers are Uberti and Pietta. (new)
Uberti's are generally more expensive than Pietta's.
Some folks feel Uberti quality is (marginally) better than Pietta
I have several Piettas, and all are of great quality.
The original 1851 was in .36 only.
The .44 is a modern "development" ?.. not historically "correct"...
Both are fun...
Me..being cheap.. I opt for the Piettas...
Hope this helps.
Uberti guns are the same size and shape as the original guns. The grip shape is also the same as an original Colt. The Pietta grip is not as curved. As for quality, both are good. I have had both and I like the feel and balance of the Uberti better. As for .36 or .44, that depends on how historically accurate you want to be. The 1851 navy revolver was only made in .36.
DL
Coupla things.
If you are just starting out, you might want to consider a Remington instead of a Colt. The open top design of the Colt makes them a little more finnicky than the Remington. So for a starting BP revolver shooter the Remington presents fewer variables.
Having said that, I started with a revolver exactly like you are describing (35 years ago) and it was a long time before I added a Remington to my accumulation. So much for my advice.
Regarding the choice of the source of the revolver, you may want to consider a Pietta from Cabela's. The price is right and you may find that the additional tweaking you get from Cimmaron to be not worth the additional expense. I do acknowledge that there are those among us who swear by Cimmaron and I cannot dispute that they are fine revolvers.
Cabela's has the steel frame Remington on sale right now and I just got an ad bragging about five dollar shipping on orders over $150. I just ordered one for 179.00 delivered but I think that is up to $184.00. They are back ordered so if you need sudden service, you may have to stick with the Colt.
If you are set on the 1851 pattern in .36 you are certainly in good company.
Coupla things.
If you are just starting out, you might want to consider a Remington instead of a Colt. The open top design of the Colt makes them a little more finnicky than the Remington. So for a starting BP revolver shooter the Remington presents fewer variables.
Having said that, I started with a revolver exactly like you are describing (35 years ago) and it was a long time before I added a Remington to my accumulation. So much for my advice.
Regarding the choice of the source of the revolver, you may want to consider a Pietta from Cabela's. The price is right and you may find that the additional tweaking you get from Cimmaron to be not worth the additional expense. I do acknowledge that there are those among us who swear by Cimmaron and I cannot dispute that they are fine revolvers.
Cabela's has the steel frame Remington on sale right now and I just got an ad bragging about five dollar shipping on orders over $150. I just ordered one for 179.00 delivered but I think that is up to $184.00. They are back ordered so if you need sudden service, you may have to stick with the Colt.
If you are set on the 1851 pattern in .36 you are certainly in good company.
madcratebuilder
New member
1 Cabela's
2 1858 Remington
You'll be fine, soon addicted and buying more.
2 1858 Remington
You'll be fine, soon addicted and buying more.
Be aware that there is a different "feel" betwqeen Colt style and Remington style guns. There is also a different "feel" between the various Colts. The 49s don't feel just like the 51s which don't feel like the 60s which don't feel ike the 61s etc.
Try them all. One of the styles or manufacturers will call to you.
Me I've owned 51s and 60s in the Colt style and 58 Remingtons. All I own now are Pietta 1860s.
Try them all. One of the styles or manufacturers will call to you.
Me I've owned 51s and 60s in the Colt style and 58 Remingtons. All I own now are Pietta 1860s.
Fingers McGee
New member
dlbar,
Doc Hoy, Madcratebuilder, and Noz have all given good advice. I'm a dyed in the wool Colt pattern revolver afficionado. I've had Remingtons in the past; but they just did not "Feel Right" in my hand when shooting in CAS Competition. I prefer the 2nd Generation Colt and Uberti grip shape over the Piettas. Try (handle) as many different revovers as you can before deciding which will be your first one. Regardless of which make, model, or color you start with, once you start making smoke, you'll be buying more.
Doc Hoy, Madcratebuilder, and Noz have all given good advice. I'm a dyed in the wool Colt pattern revolver afficionado. I've had Remingtons in the past; but they just did not "Feel Right" in my hand when shooting in CAS Competition. I prefer the 2nd Generation Colt and Uberti grip shape over the Piettas. Try (handle) as many different revovers as you can before deciding which will be your first one. Regardless of which make, model, or color you start with, once you start making smoke, you'll be buying more.
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Fingers,
I hope not......
.....because the phrase is 'dyed in the wool'.
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/dyed-in-the-wool
I hope not......
.....because the phrase is 'dyed in the wool'.
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/dyed-in-the-wool
Well, I think what I'm inclined to do is buy the Pietta '51 Navy in .44. I like historically correct stuff as well, which this is not, but it's $129. And for my first foray into this bailiwick, this is an economical entre.
Of course, it won't be satisfactory for the long term and there will necessarily be future purchases of a more serious and superior nature. But who among us ever believes that their NEXT gun will be their FINAL gun acquisition? This choice will allow me to get my feet wet and find out what this is all about. I'll report back....
Thanks for your input - I'm still open to more since this is just the first among many purchases.
Of course, it won't be satisfactory for the long term and there will necessarily be future purchases of a more serious and superior nature. But who among us ever believes that their NEXT gun will be their FINAL gun acquisition? This choice will allow me to get my feet wet and find out what this is all about. I'll report back....
Thanks for your input - I'm still open to more since this is just the first among many purchases.
One more thing - I read one of the reviews on this brass-framed revolver and somebody said that the brass s-t-r-e-c-h-e-s with use, particularly with heavier loads. I would not really expect to be using such loads myself, but does anyone here concur with that opinion?
Inquiring minds want to know.... Thanks
Inquiring minds want to know.... Thanks
robhof
I know brass frame owners who've owned them for years and they still shoot fine, but all of them have stuck strictly with light loads, yes they will stretch and the blast shield will become imprinted with the back of the cylinder. I stick with steel and can occasionally shoot max loads and do it worry free.
I know brass frame owners who've owned them for years and they still shoot fine, but all of them have stuck strictly with light loads, yes they will stretch and the blast shield will become imprinted with the back of the cylinder. I stick with steel and can occasionally shoot max loads and do it worry free.
DL
If you shoot much you will likely wind up with a loading press.
If you start with a brass frame revolver, you may want to hasten the purchase of the press and start loading outside of the revolver right off the bat.
I am one (perhaps the only one) who believes that you put as much stress on the arbor of a Colt revolver during the loading process when loading with the lever as you do while shooting it.
As robhof says, keep the loads light and you should be okay.
I would also advise you to start with .451 balls and see if you can shave a ring all the way around with those. You may have to go to .454s but if you can shoot .451s it will put less strain on the arbor while loading them (until you get a press.)
Use bullets with a high lead percentage. High lead means softer bullets and easier loading (until you get a press.)
If you shoot much you will likely wind up with a loading press.
If you start with a brass frame revolver, you may want to hasten the purchase of the press and start loading outside of the revolver right off the bat.
I am one (perhaps the only one) who believes that you put as much stress on the arbor of a Colt revolver during the loading process when loading with the lever as you do while shooting it.
As robhof says, keep the loads light and you should be okay.
I would also advise you to start with .451 balls and see if you can shave a ring all the way around with those. You may have to go to .454s but if you can shoot .451s it will put less strain on the arbor while loading them (until you get a press.)
Use bullets with a high lead percentage. High lead means softer bullets and easier loading (until you get a press.)
Fingers McGee
New member
Correction made Zullo. the y and i are close enough together that my fat fingers struck again.
Zullo got it
If you load the cylinder with a press out of the pistol and shoot loads that are right for the frame you will have little or no trouble.
Another danger in revolvers is imprinting the web shape of the back of the cylinder in the recoil shield of the frame. I had an excellent photo of a frame I picked up in which the imprint was probably as much as 1/32 inch deep. Very noticable. It is easier to imprint a brass frame than a steel one.
In general terms, the same practices that save the arbor, also reduce imprinting of the shield.
If you load the cylinder with a press out of the pistol and shoot loads that are right for the frame you will have little or no trouble.
Another danger in revolvers is imprinting the web shape of the back of the cylinder in the recoil shield of the frame. I had an excellent photo of a frame I picked up in which the imprint was probably as much as 1/32 inch deep. Very noticable. It is easier to imprint a brass frame than a steel one.
In general terms, the same practices that save the arbor, also reduce imprinting of the shield.