Rifle recommendations?

S

skobrien

New member
I have a 270 (mossberg 4x4) and 308 (ruger american) sporter style hunting rifles and both shoot tight groups for the first three shots from a cold barrel and then the shots open up quite a lot. Like this morning, first three shots were all within 1 inch at 100 yards and then wento 3 to 4 inches. I understand this is a common problem caused by barrel heating and is to be expected. If I let the barrels cool down, they are accurate again for a few shots, but it can take quite a while to cool down.

I really don't want to go to the range just to make three good shots from each gun. Any recommendations on a rifle that would be accurate for more continuous shooting?
 
Not in those price ranges. However, more likely the crappy stock than the barrel. Three shots won't open up a rifle, even a pencil barrel that much.
 
Crappy stock

I agree the Ruger American has a cheap stock, but the 4x4 has a solid wood stock, very nice actually, no part of it touches the barrel. But why would the stock cause problems after the third shot? That makes no sense. Besides, I've certainly heard this same complaint from people with much more expensive rifles.

I went back to the target to measure the shots. The first three were actually within 1/2 inch. Then they spread to 2". Also, I didn't ask for recommendations for a rifle in any specific price range, just for rifles that you have experience with that don't open up after three shots.
 
Last edited:
Think in terms of a heavier barrel. I have a hunting rifle with a thin barrel and like you I have let it cool down frequently. To avoid down time I bring a couple of rifles. A few shots with this one then that one etc....
 
This is what sporter class rifles do. It is what they are built for, and why they are built the way they are. Generally speaking one seldom gets more than 3 rapid shots at any game, and sporters are hunting rifles.

As light, and handy as practical, not optimized for sustained fire.

Look at benchrest guns. That's a ten shot game. Ten shots in one bullet size hole is the goal, so the guns are heavy barrels and heavy built, so they stay as consistent as possible for those ten shots in a row.

A tackhammer has a disadvantage driving a fencepost, and a sledgehammer isn't the best choice to hang a picture with.

Personally I get amused when people ask how my Ruger No.3s or No,1 "groups". :D

IF you want something for continuous "good" shooting, you will have to accept a heavier thicker barrel, more mass means it takes longer to be affected by the heat, etc.

The more or less standard for extended performance is to wait a minute or even a couple between shots, allowing the gun to cool as much as practical.

Having another gun, even a plinker to alternate with the "serious" shooting isn't a bad thing.
 
Get a good Christensen Arms rifle in the caliber of your choice. Those guys don't drift at all.

My most accurate and stable hunting rifle is an Ultra-Lightweight Weatherby that prints 3/8" hot or cold. But yes, heavier, stiffer barrels are more accurate.

Barrel contact is not typically a big issue, it is the bedding, or lack thereof, with the cheap stocks. I had a Rem AAC in .308...at 100 yards, was about 1" for 3 or 4 rounds, then went to 2-3". Put it in a good chassis, shoots under 0.6" hot or cold now. That is typical.
 
Thanks

I appreciate the replys. I've been considering a weatherby. But didn't know how they reacted to sustained shooting. I know I'll need a heavier barrel, but just don't know how much heavier.

Any more recommendations?

Thanks again
 
For my medium hunting rifles it's not the 'group' but does the rifle stay sighted in????

Everything counts. However make sure what your hunting with is sighted in.
 
When I usually go to the range, {besides my big gun}, I bring along a 22, pistol or air rifle, so I can let the big gun cool. While letting your gun cool...don't expose it to the hot sun, whereas the sun will heat up the barrel on one side, which could change zero.

Don't keep shooting the rifle when the barrel is to hot to touch --- That's the 185 degree Fahrenheit or over mark that leads to rapid throat erosion; just ahead of the chamber.

There's an old saying: "Shoot a family of six"

Usually...6 rapid fire semi auto centerfire rounds will bring the rifle near the 185 degree threshold mark.

For zeroing...I usually shoot a semi-rapid fire {about one minute} three shot string, {then let the gun cool} --- Because once the receiver starts to heat up --- it sometimes changes zero on a rifle. Clean the bore after every 15 or 20 shots. Do an oiler shot if you used oil for lubing the bore. A cloth patch of degreaser down the bore really helps, if you don't perform the oiler shot.


Make sure your rifle screws a tight. Usually the bolt screw near the receiver is the last one to tighten. {Correct me if I'm wrong on that.}

Some SAKO's and TIKKA rifles have semi-heavy barrels. I believe my SAKO Model 75 has a #3 size barrel.
 
Last edited:
The cheap stock has nothing to do with it, the factory Ruger stock works just fine.

Any barrel will lose some accuracy as it heats up. A very high quality aftermarket barrel will do better as it gets hot than most common factory barrels. But one of those barrels installed will cost you more than the both of your current rifles combined.

A heavier barrel will take longer to heat up, it will also take longer to cool down after it gets hot so it is about a wash. Most sporter barrels are good for 3-5 shots, most heavier varmint type barrels 5-10 shots before they need to cool.

Taking 5-10 minutes between shooting strings is perfectly normal, you won't buy anything significantly better. The exact amount of time varies depending on the actual air temp. During the winter it can be as little as 3-5 minutes. When it is near 100 outside it could be 15-20 minutes.

There are lots of tricks to speed things up. I always take several rifles including a 22. I'll shoot a string of 3-5 shots through 2-5 different center fires then plink for a while with the 22 until the center fires are cool enough to go with another round.

If it is really hot and I don't have time to wait I've left the truck running with the AC on high. The rifle stays in the truck until it is shot, then goes right back inside and another comes out. It can cut cooling time to 5 minutes or so even when it is 100 outside.

Some people have been known to keep wet towels to place over the barrel to aid cooling between strings.
 
Just a thought and not a jab . Groups opening up after 3 or 4 shots , take a breath and take your time . May be the shooter and not the rifle . 3 or 4 shots should not affect the rifle .
 
The present ob secession some have with 'groups' from hunting rifles is of little value.

What matters most is if the rifle stays sighted in!

Keep track of that and confirm it at the range from a cold barrel.

Here is a target from a favorite rifle that brings down the game.

92414035-5.jpg


I have target rifles I use in 30 shot to 50 shot matches. They must shoot 'groups' of 30 to 50 shots. We get sighter's at those matches.

I get no sighters when hunting!
 
Last edited:
The more or less standard for extended performance is to wait a minute or even a couple between shots, allowing the gun to cool as much as practical.
Click to expand...

Absolutely true! When developing a hunting load and when zeroing the scope for hunting after determining the load, I wait at least a couple of minutes between shots and even "fan" the barrel with a piece of cardboard. Barrel heat really effects the accuracy of hunting rifle barrels.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top