Rifle Bedding
- Thread starter BANG
- Start date
for a .22rifle, its basically to improve..
group size and to minimize outside variations.
I made a new walnut position stock for my Anschutz, I made pillar for both the action screws. The front also had an "recoil lip" for entering the cross-action slot that had a separate cross bar in original prone stock.
Bedded theses pillars in and clamped the action in-place, then did a full action bedding. Final bedding was where the barrel/action joint was located, here I bedded the expose action front and two inches of barrel, when the un-used bedding started to set, I inverted the assembly, to allow the barrel to hang away, allowing the bedding to flow and form. Cover that area with duct tape.
After 24hour drying, removed tape and cleaned up, now the barrel has a formed bedding block that supports the barrel in a positive manner and effectively "free floats" thru its vibrations.
group size and to minimize outside variations.
I made a new walnut position stock for my Anschutz, I made pillar for both the action screws. The front also had an "recoil lip" for entering the cross-action slot that had a separate cross bar in original prone stock.
Bedded theses pillars in and clamped the action in-place, then did a full action bedding. Final bedding was where the barrel/action joint was located, here I bedded the expose action front and two inches of barrel, when the un-used bedding started to set, I inverted the assembly, to allow the barrel to hang away, allowing the bedding to flow and form. Cover that area with duct tape.
After 24hour drying, removed tape and cleaned up, now the barrel has a formed bedding block that supports the barrel in a positive manner and effectively "free floats" thru its vibrations.
Good question.
With minimal recoil forces on the action, you would think it might not have much effect.
But, the recoil force is still there. If the receiver is properly and tightly fitted in the stock, bedding might not have much effect- since it's not "moving" under recoil, anyway.
If the fit is poor, however, I wouldn't see how it would be any different than a centerfire stock.
I've never know receiver bedding-when done properly, to have a detrimental effect. I don't own any rimfire rifles, but I've bedded every centerfire I've ever owned- and would do the same with a rimfire if I had one...
With minimal recoil forces on the action, you would think it might not have much effect.
But, the recoil force is still there. If the receiver is properly and tightly fitted in the stock, bedding might not have much effect- since it's not "moving" under recoil, anyway.
If the fit is poor, however, I wouldn't see how it would be any different than a centerfire stock.
I've never know receiver bedding-when done properly, to have a detrimental effect. I don't own any rimfire rifles, but I've bedded every centerfire I've ever owned- and would do the same with a rimfire if I had one...
ndking1126
New member
Never thought about bedding a .22! I'm interested to see what people say.
HAHA, exactly what I was thinking! Forgot the reason for making that point in the first place
HAHA, exactly what I was thinking! Forgot the reason for making that point in the first place
Thanks for the info--very helpful! I have been thinking of fixing up a 60 year-old bolt-action .22 rifle. And, it has a long, 25" barrel. The receiver moves some no matter how tight the take sown screw is torqued. Accuracy is 1-1/4" spread (10 shots) at 50 yards with Winchester ammo; greater spread and more flyers with other ammo.
I have been thinking that bedding the receiver is most important to make a sold mount. I plan to free-float the barrel, but have not made up my mind, yet.
I have been thinking that bedding the receiver is most important to make a sold mount. I plan to free-float the barrel, but have not made up my mind, yet.
I pillared and bedded my KIDD 10/22 and am happy with the results. There is zero movement between the barreled action and the stock now, they truely feel like one piece. The pillar helped alot with being able to torque the takedown screw the same time after time without the wood compressing and changing the torque needed. I also believe it helped with keeping the POI consistent after dismantling to clean. Stability + repeatability + consistency= accuracy
I used the Miles Gilbert Bedrock Glass Bedding Kit and would recommend it. It comes with literally everything you need to bed a couple rifles....from the bedding itself down to the cups to mix it in. It cured hard as a rock and the release agent worked very well. It also comes with "micro balloons" to thicken the bedding if you wish. At only $22 it's a great deal.
I used the Miles Gilbert Bedrock Glass Bedding Kit and would recommend it. It comes with literally everything you need to bed a couple rifles....from the bedding itself down to the cups to mix it in. It cured hard as a rock and the release agent worked very well. It also comes with "micro balloons" to thicken the bedding if you wish. At only $22 it's a great deal.
Yes, BUT I didn't take a before / after grouping...
the main purpose was to allow me to use the rifle in 3-position matched and prone.
In the standing, I'm steadier than before and the prone & sitting ( sometimes kneeling) I'm getting higher scores.
BUT I also did ammo grouping and am working off a remaining lot of Federal 711 ammo from 1996.
the main purpose was to allow me to use the rifle in 3-position matched and prone.
In the standing, I'm steadier than before and the prone & sitting ( sometimes kneeling) I'm getting higher scores.
BUT I also did ammo grouping and am working off a remaining lot of Federal 711 ammo from 1996.
IsaacCarlson
Inactive
I put pillars in my CZ 455 and it did wonders. It is more consistent now and will hold MOA to 300 yards. I can keep 10 rounds on a 3.5" steel plate at 300 yards on a decent day. It prefers a good hearty meal of CCI SV. There is sooooo much talk of messing with action screw torque on RFC it makes me ill. Pillars are a good fix for that "problem". I torque mine to 30 in lbs and leave em. I can't see why someone would want to mess with finding the "right" torque when that perfect torque will change with the weather. Just install pillars and you don't have to worry..... Here is how I did mine. I have a few more to do for other folks. http://youtu.be/b0PyUoOp_g4