Ricochet Question - need opinions.

Y

yankytrash

New member
I was watching the Great American Outdoorsman Challenge the other day. On the shooting challenge, they had a series of 15 small targets to shoot down. It was speed competition. After they shot one, it would fall.

Thinking of making one for myself out of pieces of steel angle iron, heavy-duty hinges and 6" diameter 1/2" plate steel for the targets.

I plan to set them at 75 and 100 yard distances. I'll be using higher calibers than they used on the show (looked like they used 22's), like the typical NATO and combloc ammo in FMJ.

Since the targets 'give' as soon as they're shot, do you think ricochet will not be a problem?

I might weld the targets at a 45 degree angle toward the ground, so the bullets will head for the ground as soon as they hit. In that case, I'll have to make the targets taller to change the shooter's view back to a 6" target.

What do think? Stupid, not stupid? Any other suggestions for combatting richochet?
 
Shooting steel is a lot of fun, but ricochets can be a BIG problem for anyone in the area. No matter how small the target is, I don't think ANY steel can "give" fast enough to avoid a ricochet, so some clubs in my area have made the ricochet work to their advantage; they mount the plates at a 45-degree angle so that the ricochets and splash go straight DOWN. They've also made some Pepper Poppers that work the same way, and fall FORWARD when they're hit.
 
Sounds like the same I want to do, but how do they fall forward? What's the advantage?


Excuse my slew of questions, I've never been to any sort of professional range.
 
A Pepper Popper is a steel target that has a large round area (12" circle) on a thinner body (diagram and dimensions at www.ipsc.org). Normally, they are set to fall backwards when they're hit, but the ones at this club have a little piece of angle-iron welded to their back, and a threaded, adjustable rod with a loop running up from the back of the supporting frame (the loop has had one side cut off, forming a sort of hook that catches onto the bottom of the small piece of angle iron on the back of the Popper). When these are set, they're leaning forward at maybe a 20 degree angle, and the impact of a bullet moves the Popper back just far enough to let the supporting hook drop out from beneath the angle iron; then the whole thing drops forward). I hope this helps, and if you run across any problems, let me know, and I'll tell you how theirs work.
 
While watching a steel target shoot at Knob Creek last year, I noticed I could see the bullets (predominantly 9mms) after they hit the targets... Which means that they weren't going anywhere near as fast as before... I wouldn't want to be standing off to the side, etc., but shouldn't be a great problem...
 
Hey - thanks guys. I've gotten some good ideas here. I'll be picking up the target material tomorrow, and I'll probably fire up the buzzbox as soon as I jump out of the truck.

I really liked actiontarget's idea of putting plywood around the front of the target. I may try that. I'm not sure if that'll be necessary at 100 yards though.
 
Steel thinkness...

You may get a suprise when you start shooting with a rifle. I have a friend that made a 1/2" steel plate target for his .30-06 and shot it apart in short order. IIRC he shot thru at 100 yds.

I have another friend that hangs 3/4" plate on log chains at 100 yds. and longer. Has them welded so they hang at an angle. Easy to see hits and they evidentally give enough that they last a while. He did say that a .375 H & H blew the chain apart.:)
 
Hmmmmm. Methinks I better, somehow, make the targets replacable.

To longegate the life the individual targets, I was contemplating sandwiching two layers of replacable 3/4" plywood on the face of each target. I'm in construction, and plywood scraps are plentiful.
 
I recently took a defensive handgunning course. We did a lot of shooting at steel at a lot closer than 100 yards. Under 10 yards, in most cases. The instructors didn't seem to think it was a problem, and they both have a lot of experience with this sort of thing. One was John Farnam, the other was Dennis Tueller, who happens to work for Action Target.


OTOH, rifle is a different beast. And a friend of mine got a minor cut on his lip from .22 at 25 yards. A piece of jacketing material came back to say hello. It was no big deal, but it got our attention.
 
Wear eye protection!!!
Just got back from the range, shooting steel plates at 25yds with a .357 mag, lead bullets. Piece of something came back and hit me in the head right under the brim of my hat.
A couple of months ago, same circumstances, heard something hit my truck. Perfect .357" diameter hole in my tail light lens.
About 2 years ago, shooting same plates with .41 mag, got hit on the inside of the thigh, drew blood and left me with a silver-dollar size bruse.
Did I mention wear eye protection??
 
At any less than 75-100 yards, I'll stick to paper and cardboard. I don't care what target designers and instructors say about it, shooting steel any closer than that is asking for trouble.


Finally found a sweet source for an inexhaustible supply of 5/8" thick hardened steel - power-line tree-trimming companies. The local company around here has a pile of old worn-out bush hog blades. I picked up a small pickup load today. Got the rest of target assemblies welded and ready to roll last night.

As soon as the youngins are asleep, I'm going out to the garage to start cutting up the blades....


BTW- Always wear eye and ear protection, guys. Don't wait until you wish you did, or you may never get another chance. Shooting from behind a stout bench isn't a bad idea, either.
 
I have shot alot of lead 230 grn ball 158 SWC and other asorted lead target loaded at falling plates and poppers as close as 7 yards and not a problem.
All the plates were made some bullet proof steel and required, I think it was called a plasma cutter and then a grinder. They were also angled forward abit. A 230 FMJ from a 45 was not a problem either.

But a HP Rifle round would dent the stuff we used...it will go right throught your 1/2 to 3/4 inch steel plate. Amour Plate and steel plate are 2 different animals as I understand it but I am not a metal what ever person.

If you ar talking .22 you can use thinner steel plate. If you are talking .223 out at 75 to 150 yards I should think your 1/2 to 3/4 steel should fair well with the copper washed bullets.

.308 and above I think you will find holes or maybe missing targets.

Oh, buy a case of the cheapest black or white spray paint, trust me...you will need it.

Good luck

Karsten
 
We had an instance where two recruits were hit by a ricochet at our police outdoor range. A .45 ACP round struck a piece of angle iron (we think) and came flying back at us. It ripped the sleeve of one recruit's uniform and continued on to strike the mag case of the second recruit with enough force to puncture the leather and ding the magazine contained inside.

Freakish.

The second recruit stated that it felt like someone had given his gunbelt a good hard swat. No one was issued eye or ear protection because our group was, supposedly, far enough behind the line that we were in no danger. :rolleyes:
 
steel plates

I shot 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch steel plate on a homemade swinging target from 50 yards with a .223 using PMC 55 grain FMJ out of a Mini-14. The 1/2 inch steel was complete penetrated and the 3/4 had holes nearly completely through the steel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top