My old S&W 686 stainless 6" .357 would (really often) spit stuff out in my face. It was kind of bizarre, actually. It didn't hurt at all, no pain of any kind, but sometimes it was a little distracting. I have little experience with revolvers, so I assumed it was just some powder (or something) escaping out from between the cylinder face and the forcing cone. I shot someone elses custom .44 Special Smith and it did the same thing. It doesn't bother me, but it seems odd. Is this normal? If not, what do you do to fix it? I've been an autoloader guy for a while, and have wanted to get into revolvers more.
Revolvers "spitting"
- Thread starter Baker Boy
- Start date
Take it to a smith and have him/her check the "timing". It could also be that the cone and/or area of the cone might have some build up.
Read this:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152565
Read this:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152565
Paul Fitz Jones
New member
Lead Remover Needed?
A Lewis Lead Remover or Brownell version may do you some good in cleaning your revolver forcing cone.
Paul
A Lewis Lead Remover or Brownell version may do you some good in cleaning your revolver forcing cone.
Paul
asinner1979
New member
what style bullets where you using?
I was using mostly Lead semi-wadcutters. I want to say they were spitting more than others, but I honestly don't remember. Thanks for the input. As I mentioned, my experience with revolvers is somewhat limited and I had previously assumed this conditon was normal for a revolver. It's odd though, both the revolvers that spit on me were Smith's, my 686, and this other fellows N-Frame. My buddy's Ruger GP100 didn't spit on my me. I'm not trying to start a controversy. I just thought that was odd.
FrankDrebin
Moderator
My Smith 25 did the same thing when I loaded some 230 grain, jacketed rounds that were seated too far out of the case.
Dfariswheel
New member
There are a number of reasons for a revolver spitting or seeming to spit.
I've had several cases where a "spitting" revolver was being shot in an indoors range and the between-line baffles were deflecting burned powder particles back onto the shooter.
As for the reasons a revolver will really spit:
The forcing cone and/or the front face of the cylinder have fouling build up. Clean the cylinder face, and use a Lewis Lead Remover to clean the forcing cone. The Lewis kit is the only effective and practical way to really clean the forcing cone, and all the older revolver shooters have one.
A revolver that's out of time. This means the action is worn or defective, and the revolver is failing to lock the cylinder up before it fires. This means the chamber isn't aligned and locked, and the bullet is actually not entering the bore cleanly. As it enters off center, part of the bullet is being "shaved" and is ejected from between the barrel/cylinder gap.
A revolver who's alignment is off. In this condition, the revolver may be perfectly in time, but for various reasons, the alignment of the chamber is off, and the chamber isn't aligned with the bore when it fires.
Again, the bullet is being shaved, and metal is being ejected.
A revolver with too much barrel/cylinder gap. In this condition, due to a factory defect, or wear or abuse causing cylinder end shake, there may be too large a gap between the barrel and the cylinder. This large gap allows material to be ejected.
Sprung yoke. A bent, "tweaked", or sprung cylinder yoke can cause the cylinder to not align properly. This is usually a symptom of abuse, often caused by "Bogarting" the gun. This is caused by slamming the cylinder open and shut with a flick of the wrist.
Worn lock-up. A revolver that has a worn or abused lock-up can allow the cylinder move in and out of the frame, again causing alignment problems.
A cracked or eroded forcing cone. Shooting light, hot Magnum ammo like the 110 and 125 grain bullets can cause cracks in the forcing cone, or the hot gasses can erode the cone to the point that material can be ejected.
My first move would be to give your revolver a GOOD cleaning, especially in the forcing cone, and the front face of the cylinder.
Inspect the forcing cone closely, looking for damage.
Check the cylinder for end shake, (The cylinder can be moved back and forth in the frame is end shake).
Check the barrel/cylinder gap with a feeler gauge. It should be somewhere between a minimum of about .004" to a max of .010".
Try another brand/type of ammo.
I've had several cases where a "spitting" revolver was being shot in an indoors range and the between-line baffles were deflecting burned powder particles back onto the shooter.
As for the reasons a revolver will really spit:
The forcing cone and/or the front face of the cylinder have fouling build up. Clean the cylinder face, and use a Lewis Lead Remover to clean the forcing cone. The Lewis kit is the only effective and practical way to really clean the forcing cone, and all the older revolver shooters have one.
A revolver that's out of time. This means the action is worn or defective, and the revolver is failing to lock the cylinder up before it fires. This means the chamber isn't aligned and locked, and the bullet is actually not entering the bore cleanly. As it enters off center, part of the bullet is being "shaved" and is ejected from between the barrel/cylinder gap.
A revolver who's alignment is off. In this condition, the revolver may be perfectly in time, but for various reasons, the alignment of the chamber is off, and the chamber isn't aligned with the bore when it fires.
Again, the bullet is being shaved, and metal is being ejected.
A revolver with too much barrel/cylinder gap. In this condition, due to a factory defect, or wear or abuse causing cylinder end shake, there may be too large a gap between the barrel and the cylinder. This large gap allows material to be ejected.
Sprung yoke. A bent, "tweaked", or sprung cylinder yoke can cause the cylinder to not align properly. This is usually a symptom of abuse, often caused by "Bogarting" the gun. This is caused by slamming the cylinder open and shut with a flick of the wrist.
Worn lock-up. A revolver that has a worn or abused lock-up can allow the cylinder move in and out of the frame, again causing alignment problems.
A cracked or eroded forcing cone. Shooting light, hot Magnum ammo like the 110 and 125 grain bullets can cause cracks in the forcing cone, or the hot gasses can erode the cone to the point that material can be ejected.
My first move would be to give your revolver a GOOD cleaning, especially in the forcing cone, and the front face of the cylinder.
Inspect the forcing cone closely, looking for damage.
Check the cylinder for end shake, (The cylinder can be moved back and forth in the frame is end shake).
Check the barrel/cylinder gap with a feeler gauge. It should be somewhere between a minimum of about .004" to a max of .010".
Try another brand/type of ammo.
trapshooter
Moderator
Clem, PFJ, and Dfaris pretty much covered all the bases. 