When I shoot my S&W 686, I seem to get a black residue on the front of the cylinder and a little on the sides also. I shoot 100 or 150 rounds 143gr fmj's. Is that a lot of shooting? Do you guys have any suggestions to clean that black stuff off. Especally the front of the cylinder. There seem to be ridges from the machineing and cleaning in these ridges is troublesome.
Revolver turns black when shot.
- Thread starter FAT DUCK
- Start date
Since it's stainless, you can use one of a number of products for cleaning what are called 'burn rings' from your revolver cylinder. I personally use Lead Away cloth, but I heard Fitz Polish works well, too. Don't use the Lead Away cloth on blued guns, though.
Others will chime in when their time zone catches up.
jmm
Others will chime in when their time zone catches up.
jmm
formerflyer
New member
Be sure to carry a rag with you to the range. Wipe the gun down while it is still warm from shooting. The longer you wait, the worse it gets. What can be wiped off with a WD-40 sprayed rag at the range will need major chemicals and rubbing when you get home.
Ignore the rings on the cylinder face that match the dimensions of the thickness of the forcing cone, unless you've got unlimited time and nothing better to do.
Used to shoot my dad's m66 and nickel Python all the time, and the above is the only way to get the stuff off easily.
Ignore the rings on the cylinder face that match the dimensions of the thickness of the forcing cone, unless you've got unlimited time and nothing better to do.
Used to shoot my dad's m66 and nickel Python all the time, and the above is the only way to get the stuff off easily.
Who needs all that scrubbin!
Ok, my little single six sees plenty of action every trip to the range, and I recently tried something I'd heard about. Just get a small container that seals well (glass is best) and fill it up with Hoppe's 9 enough to cover the cylinder. First time I tried this I left it soaking for 2 days, and all the leading I could NEVER previously remove just wiped away with a paper towel. Now I use this for all hard to clean parts. Usually still clean the frame by hand. It's really works well, give it a shot (pun intended!).
Ok, my little single six sees plenty of action every trip to the range, and I recently tried something I'd heard about. Just get a small container that seals well (glass is best) and fill it up with Hoppe's 9 enough to cover the cylinder. First time I tried this I left it soaking for 2 days, and all the leading I could NEVER previously remove just wiped away with a paper towel. Now I use this for all hard to clean parts. Usually still clean the frame by hand. It's really works well, give it a shot (pun intended!).
Dfariswheel
New member
As above, the easiest, fastest method is to use a Lead-Away type cloth.
These are yellow colored, waxy feeling cloths available in gun stores.
Simply wiping the fouled areas literally strips the carbon right off with no heavy scrubbing, no brushing, and no chemicals.
You can also cut patches from the cloth and use them to remove leading from bores and chambers.
DO NOT use on a blued gun....it also strips the bluing right off.
These are yellow colored, waxy feeling cloths available in gun stores.
Simply wiping the fouled areas literally strips the carbon right off with no heavy scrubbing, no brushing, and no chemicals.
You can also cut patches from the cloth and use them to remove leading from bores and chambers.
DO NOT use on a blued gun....it also strips the bluing right off.
kingudaroad
New member
Lead away cloth and you won't have to worry about those rings cause they will be gone
I also heard a tip that went like this. *Before* beginning a range session, spray a little BreakFree (or was it FP10?) on the front of the cylinder. This is done without ammunition in the chambers. After range session, it's supposedly easier to wipe off. Might help to wipe off intermittently through the session and reapply. I haven't tried it myself only b/c I keep forgetting to.
jmm
jmm
Dfariswheel
New member
The easy way to clean the chambers is with a Brownell's bronze chamber cleaning brush.
These work better than using over-caliber bore brushes,, because these are special extra-stiff bristle brushes that are a tight fit in the chamber.
To use, "screw" and push the brush into the chamber. Give it a couple of turns, then push out the front.
Pull back through, and the fouling is usually completely gone.
Personally, I use the brush dry, no solvent.
I DO NOT recommend using the Brownell's stainless steel chamber brushes.
These can damage or wear the chamber, and are intended for gunsmith's use when you have a chamber so neglected and fouled, you have nothing to lose.
These work better than using over-caliber bore brushes,, because these are special extra-stiff bristle brushes that are a tight fit in the chamber.
To use, "screw" and push the brush into the chamber. Give it a couple of turns, then push out the front.
Pull back through, and the fouling is usually completely gone.
Personally, I use the brush dry, no solvent.
I DO NOT recommend using the Brownell's stainless steel chamber brushes.
These can damage or wear the chamber, and are intended for gunsmith's use when you have a chamber so neglected and fouled, you have nothing to lose.
Terrierman
New member
Lewis lead remover for those heavily lead fouled chambers and leaded barrel. It is an expandable rubber plug that has a brass screen over it. They work very well when you are dealing with severe leading. Also, +1 on the lead removal cloth for stainless clean up. Works fine for light lead removal in the chamber and bore too.
DiplomaticBlackHawk
New member
SImple ...... it's gun powder residue.and not trying to be a smart arse , just asked the same question one time and the guys on that board where ready to deny my right to bear arms and hang me lol.I was wondering if any of u guys use brake kleen , and i do mean the non-chlorinated formula.
some good ideas here, i'll have to try them. I've just been using elbow grease and a little wire brush up until now. Ill defiately try the lead away cloth.
Question. I've got a ported stainless steel taurus. The cut outs on the barrel where you see the tops of the ports fouls up VERY bad, much worse than the cylinder's forward face. Plus that surface is unpolished. That part is a real pain in the ass to clean. Personally, i just left that carbon buildup on. Here's the question though, what about the port holes themselves? If there is a lot of carbon buildup as the gasses blast out the holes, are the holes themselves going to get enough buildup to start reducing the effectiveness of the ports? clogg up completely? how do i clean them?
Question. I've got a ported stainless steel taurus. The cut outs on the barrel where you see the tops of the ports fouls up VERY bad, much worse than the cylinder's forward face. Plus that surface is unpolished. That part is a real pain in the ass to clean. Personally, i just left that carbon buildup on. Here's the question though, what about the port holes themselves? If there is a lot of carbon buildup as the gasses blast out the holes, are the holes themselves going to get enough buildup to start reducing the effectiveness of the ports? clogg up completely? how do i clean them?
carbon on the cylinder of a stainless steel revolver
Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter works very good for this application. www.slip2000.com. Also works good to remove carbon build-up on the bolt of an AR-15/M-16. You can get a jar of Slip 2000 that you can soak the whole cylinder in.
KG-1 carbon cutter also works pretty well. www.kgcoatings.com.
Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter works very good for this application. www.slip2000.com. Also works good to remove carbon build-up on the bolt of an AR-15/M-16. You can get a jar of Slip 2000 that you can soak the whole cylinder in.
KG-1 carbon cutter also works pretty well. www.kgcoatings.com.
lead build-up in a revolver
And specific to the lead build up removal question, try the specific lead remover formula from Shooter's Choice. www.shooters-choice.com. I've had VERY good luck with that stuff.
You could also use J&B Bore Cleaner, which is a mildly abrasive paste, or a Lewis Lead remover.
To prevent or reduce lead build up in my revolvers, for every 100 or so rounds of lead bullet reloads I shoot, I also shoot 50 rounds of GI Spec 130 grn FMJ-RN ball. I can usually find Winchester or Remington generic ammo in this configuration. My leading problem has been GREATLY reduced since I started following that routine.
And specific to the lead build up removal question, try the specific lead remover formula from Shooter's Choice. www.shooters-choice.com. I've had VERY good luck with that stuff.
You could also use J&B Bore Cleaner, which is a mildly abrasive paste, or a Lewis Lead remover.
To prevent or reduce lead build up in my revolvers, for every 100 or so rounds of lead bullet reloads I shoot, I also shoot 50 rounds of GI Spec 130 grn FMJ-RN ball. I can usually find Winchester or Remington generic ammo in this configuration. My leading problem has been GREATLY reduced since I started following that routine.