Revolver Trigger Sticking ?

3

.38SPL enthusiast

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I have been reading the Firing Line Forums for some time and have been really impressed, it seems like somebody has an answer for every question.

Recently searching the net I saw it recommended that when your checking a revolver out before purchase you cycle the action upside down. So I did this on my old Model 10 Smith and I found that the trigger will sometimes stick as it's released, never happens right side up. The trigger will move forward half the way then stick and release with a click. Any ideas? Do I need to send it off?
 
clean first?

I'm NO revolver expert,or nothing.But it seems the first step would to clean the piss out it!See if it's gumed up.Very common issue with all firearms.Later on tex!If not sticking mean trigger problem next.The revolver has a powerful spring to slam hammer.Good Luck!Somtimes the common problem is the worst ones.!
 
Thanks for the reply. I think your probably right Jarin12ga. I've tried cleaning the action by taking the grips off and spraying degreaser in followed with Remoil. I don't think I've ever gotten all the gunk out that way though.
I guess one day I might have to take the plate off, or get a smith to do it :)
 
No expert either, but that's the first I've heard of the upside down test. I tried it on both of my S&W M&Ps (both WWII) and they work fine upside down.
May be dirt, or worn parts, or a weak trigger return spring. How old and worn is your M10?
JT
 
If cleaning doesn't fix it, it's likely a weak trigger return spring.( It's a common symptom on guns with reduced pull trigger jobs too. ) It's not hard to change out the spring but a good video /book to walk you through getting it appart/ back togeather helps allot the first time. I used an AGi video snagged on Ebay. $15 well spent!
 
return spring

yep..trigger rebound spring...
you will not only need a new spring
BUT, I'd recommend the tool from brownell's
for insearting and removing the spring and the
trigger rebound slide..otherwise, you will learn
a bunch of new cuss words and be hunting that spring
a couple of times probably...but, is not
a big issue...and if replacing the spring go ahead
and stick in a Wolff spring and lighten the return spring a
bit...will make trigger pull slicker...and lightly stone
the rebound slide bottom and back and the foot
it works on..not much (don't want to lower it) just
enough to smooth it some..and you've got a good start
on a good trigger job right there.
 
Yeah, I was wondering about that spring myself. Wasn't sure if there was any reason for it to get weak. The Model 10 in question is about thirty and still locks up tight, but the cartridge head stampings on the recoil plate makes me think it's been fired tens of thousands of times.
Sounds like I'll have a project for fall break. Thanks for all the posts.
 
While it could be the rebound spring, there are a few other things to check first.

Invert the unloaded gun and look in the groove behind the trigger. Close inspection will reveal a short rod in there. Might also be lint, dust & crud too, depending on storage conditions (like a lint-y sock drawer). Spray your Rem-oil there and wipe clean, then cycle the action a dozen times while inverted. If that doesn't work it's probably the rebound spring.
 
I think you figured it out BillCA. I did what you suggested this afternoon and The problem dissapeared. I don't know why I didn't think of that :)
Thanks for all the help.
 
You're most welcome. No charge either! :D

This may indicate that the internals need a good cleaning however. If you don't think you can do that yourself, ask a gunsmith to do it. Most will charge a minimal fee for their time to do it.

IF you have a degreaser spray with a plastic tube, you can do a fair job yourself. Note: Wear gloves and eye protection to avoid splashing solvent into your eyes.

Unload the gun and remove the grips. Cock the hammer, tip the muzzle up 2" and spray down towards the base of the hammer. Spray until solvent comes out down the grip frame.

Now tip the muzzle down 2" below level. Insert tube up into the rear of the frame from the grip area, pointing slightly forward. Several quick shots of solvent here too. If solvent is spraying out of the cylinder's stop-bolt hole that's plenty! Cycle the action about 4 times, slowly, by hand. Don't dry fire, don't use double-action mode - you just want to loosen any remaining gunk.

Wait 2 minutes.

Use compressed air (or those "dust-off" compressed air cans) to blow out the excess solvent. You won't get it all right away, but that's okay. Lower the hammer slowly to rest.

Wash hands well with soap & water. You might use a hand lotion too. Go eat lunch or spend 30-60 minutes doing something else while the gun air dries.

Relubricate the revolver. See my description in the revolver section by following this link to post #3 on cleaning a revolver.

When doing this, it's best done outdoors due to the vapors. You can also put down some newspaper on the ground to soak up the old oils/chemicals. A white piece of paper or old t-shirt will let you see how dark the gunk is that comes out of the gun. It'll also show you any metal particles that might indicate excessive wear or lead fouling.
 
Bill,

You've put together some really useful info that we can all benefit from. That's the beauty of these forums...sharing experiences and advice to help each other. Your time is much appreciated.

I got back from the range today, and cleaned my 686 right away. My eight year old daughter was amazed at the whole process, and stood by my side the whole time. Looks like I have a new cleaning buddy now. :)

Dean
 
Dean,

Glad to have helped you with the ideas -- and getting your daughter's interest too!

Suggestions:
1. Teach her the basic rules of gun safety.
ESPECIALLY the one about "Treat every gun as if it's loaded". My dad did this with me, demonstrating the gun was empty, closing it and handing to me. "Is is loaded or empty?" When I said empty, he said I was wrong because I didn't look. Opened the cylinder - empty casing there somehow. Then he told me NEVER never never never EVER take someone's word for it. Always check it yourself.

2. Spend a few bucks on a box of match wadcutters and take her to the range with you. Fire a few shots then let her try if she wants. Most kids are all smiles afterwards.

3. 7-8 year olds soak up information, rules and instructions like a sponge. Demonstrate proper handling techniques always and tell them why things are done a certain way. If she likes shooting, tell her to keep her grades up (B average) and you'll take her shooting. She makes straight "A" average, get her a small gun of her own (used under supervision of course).

If you like single-action guns, take a look at cowboy action shooting - it's a family oriented game and fun. I've seen girls as young as 8 shooting SAA's with low power .45 Colt rounds (.38's are more common as are Ruger Bearcat 22's). But the ladies can dress up in old west clothing too - something that's a lot of fun for them.
 
Bill,

Good advice. Before I brought my first gun home, my son (12) and daugther (8), and my wife and I had a long discussion on safety, what to do in different scenarios, how to treat a gun, etc. We even sat down and watched two videos:

"It's Your Call. Playing it Safe Around Guns."

"Firearms Safety Depends on You"

Also got some info from:

www.FirearmsSafetyEducation.org

NRA Gun Safety Rules

Once the gun was in the house, we went over everything again. They were able to hold the empty gun to settle their curiosities, and ask any questions they had.

Back to cleaning the gun...

Now I take the opportunity each time I clean a gun to reinforce the rules, and let them help if they want. I think it's a great way to instill gun safety and responsibility in kids.

I have since bought my son a Ruger 10/22, which he really enjoys. Now you got me thinking about a single-action revolver. Another item for the wish list...

Dean
 
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