I have a 610 (and probably some other revolvers) that I would like to have the chambers chamfered lightly for quicker reloads. Does Brownells make a tool for this? Do most professional smiths just use a Dremel and their highly honed skills? The online sources I have seen "only" want $25-35 for it so I can't imagine their are too many expert tricks to do it. IF I decide to give it a go myself, what are the stumbling blocks for this operation.
Revolver cylinder chamfering?
- Thread starter AndABeer
- Start date
HIRE A PROFESSIONAL
Lesseenow.......$25-35 for a pro with the right tools to chamfer my $150 cylinder...........or me and my Dremel and crocus cloth to chamfer (hopefully) my $150 cylinder..........hmmm.........or I can buy a $?? tool and experiment on my $150 cylinder..........
This, of course, is meant only as humor; I too will hack away at any of my guns in a (amateur) attempt to improve them (although chamfering the cylinders of my seven revolvers has admittedly not been attempted as yet -- I'm hiring a professional to do it!).
Lesseenow.......$25-35 for a pro with the right tools to chamfer my $150 cylinder...........or me and my Dremel and crocus cloth to chamfer (hopefully) my $150 cylinder..........hmmm.........or I can buy a $?? tool and experiment on my $150 cylinder..........
This, of course, is meant only as humor; I too will hack away at any of my guns in a (amateur) attempt to improve them (although chamfering the cylinders of my seven revolvers has admittedly not been attempted as yet -- I'm hiring a professional to do it!).
Well I never considered going after my cylinder with a Dremel. I was just wondering how the professionals did it. The main point of my post was to inquire as to whether there was a self guiding tool that would accomplish the task with little risk. I did locate the Brownells tool but did not realize it was caliber specific. I only thought you needed to pick a chamfer angle. My thinking that with one $40 tool I could chamfer all my revolvers, .357 through .45, rather than spend the $300 for a smith to do them all. Again, provided it was not deemed to be too difficult. However, the only one I am really anxious to have done is my 610 so I will call around locally for wait times.
Brian Williams
New member
How much metal is removed when a cylinder is chamfered and does it really help... is it a problem with hot loads aka the unsupported Glock 40's
thanks
thanks
Perfsessr,
Not much at all, just enough to break that harsh edge. If you were to remove a lot (i.e. too much) your ejector would no longer function (at least on normal rimmed caliber revolvers). I have seen people drop a loaded moon clip from about an inch or two above the open cylinder and they fell right in.
Everyone,
A call to local smiths put the price at $45 and over a month wait time. Called Brownells, the tech guy recommended not cutting into the ejector and just chamfering the outer edge of the chamber. Not sure how this would help me as it seems my loaded clips get hung up on the inner edge of the ejector. The tool is $60, caliber specific, but extra pilots ($15) are all you need to do different calibers as the cutter is the same for all calibers. I am still undecided but the do-it-yourselfer is winning out.
Not much at all, just enough to break that harsh edge. If you were to remove a lot (i.e. too much) your ejector would no longer function (at least on normal rimmed caliber revolvers). I have seen people drop a loaded moon clip from about an inch or two above the open cylinder and they fell right in.
Everyone,
A call to local smiths put the price at $45 and over a month wait time. Called Brownells, the tech guy recommended not cutting into the ejector and just chamfering the outer edge of the chamber. Not sure how this would help me as it seems my loaded clips get hung up on the inner edge of the ejector. The tool is $60, caliber specific, but extra pilots ($15) are all you need to do different calibers as the cutter is the same for all calibers. I am still undecided but the do-it-yourselfer is winning out.
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LET US KNOW
I've been too scared to try it on ANY of my wheels (see earlier post), and my LSWC IPSC loads get caught all the time.
Plus, I've had great results with any pro work I've had done; not too shabby with me D-I-YS, either.
(I've read that the ejector star is untouched.)
I've been too scared to try it on ANY of my wheels (see earlier post), and my LSWC IPSC loads get caught all the time.
Plus, I've had great results with any pro work I've had done; not too shabby with me D-I-YS, either.
(I've read that the ejector star is untouched.)
While I won't say that I've chamferred my cylinders, I have chucked Kratex abrasive on a Dremmel & just broken the edge on a few. Works quite well.
No so much to remove any material (you do), but just to make the edge less sharp.
Kratex, BTW, is an abrasive-impregnated rubber - comes in sticks or as pre-molded shapes for Dremmel mandrels, etc. Neat stuff & in many different grades.
No so much to remove any material (you do), but just to make the edge less sharp.
Kratex, BTW, is an abrasive-impregnated rubber - comes in sticks or as pre-molded shapes for Dremmel mandrels, etc. Neat stuff & in many different grades.
Yes I did cut into the ejector on this gun because that is where I was getting hung up the most on reloads. However, this is a 10mm revolver so the ejector wasn't working off the cartridge rim anyway. I'd have to completely butcher the ejector to keep the moon clips from working. If I get subsequent pilots for other rimmed calibers I will most likely avoid the star.
pahrumpcaveman
New member
I had a similar problem with a security six I have . The cylinder had such a sharp edge it would bite into the case as you loaded it . I took my de burring tool to all the holes ( just enough to remove the edge ) and it works fine now .