Revolver cleaning/ nickel for a newbie

K

kb81

Inactive
Alright. I searched and couldn't find anything so I hope I'm not being the typical newbie, but....

I've recently purchased a 1948 Colt OP .38spc. w/ nickel finish. I'm a LEO here in MI, and this particular one was engraved and a service revolver of the Detroit PD. Got it for $290 in very good condition(minimal pitting).

In any event, I'm familiar with steel auto cleaning, but not with nickel revolvers. Any difference in the type of cleaning products/lube to use on the nickel? What areas should I focus on cleaning? How do I get in the hammer "well", etc?

And would you recommend I keep this as a safe gun or a shooter. Thanks,

-Kasch
 
Welcome to TFL! :D
That is a really good question. I can't help you, but I'm sure many others will. I'm very interested in the replys...
 
As I've been told when I asked this question, best bet is using Flitz, with a cotton cloth and some elbow grease. Then lightly re-oil the finish after you follow the direction on the Flitz.
 
I have been using "Iosso Gunbrite" on this old 29 for about 13 years now, and it does a fine job of keeping the nickel looking top-notch, even after a session with "Elmer loads". Like anything else it can be overdone; I give it a good going over after the hunting season, and maybe once during the summer.

Welcome aboard, and congrats on a fine old Colt. How about a pic or two?
PS- Me? I'd shoot it!
 
Better be sure

I have read somewhere that some of the more aggresive gun cleaners might attack nickel, so be cautious about any exotic hitech cleaners, maybe. Most likely we are talking about stuff that is made to dissolve copper fouling or lead, like maybe with ammonia or something in it. I suspect plain old Hoppes will not have a bad effect, but any kind of solvent should be probably wiped off exterior surfaces. Maybe a wipedown of the outside with a silicone cloth would be sufficient? Outside of the nickel gun probably does not need to be all oily and gooey like a blue gun to prevent fingerprinting. If rust does start on the outside of the gun due to a scratch thru the plating, etc, that can be bad as the rusting can get going under the plating and then the plating would flake off. If something you put on the gun starts to turn green on the plating, get it off!
 
Nickel finishes on ordnance steel firearms have a copper “foundation” that permits the nickel “coating” to be applied and to adhere. If there are gaps -- even very small ones -- in the nickel surface, some firearms products (Hoppes #9, for example) contain chemicals (I believe kerosene-based) that can undermine the copper underpinning. If the copper is destabilized, the nickel will eventually flake-off. Breakfree CLP (I have been told) will not undermine the copper base-finish, if your firearm has small fractures in the nickel exterior.

I hope this is lucid. Perhaps one of our experts can make my explanation clearer.
 
MAAS, Flitz or even Mothers wheel polish work for me. I suggest Tetra products for cleaning and lubing. AVOID any cleaners like Hoppes #9 as they contain ammonia. That is what causes delamination between the steel, copper and nickel coating. Brass-O contains ammonia, DO NOT use it. I only clean rarely unless I have been shooting. I use a good carnauba wax to maintain the finish and protect from moisture. A wipe with Tetra or Birchwood Casey Sheath and you are done. Shoot? Only with 158 gr lead cartridges for target shooting. I would have a Colt aware gunsmith check it over before using it. They should be able to advise further on ammunition after inspection. They might approve it for +P. Those Official Police models were rated for the same loads as S&W 38-44s. www.cylinder-slide.com
 
Thanks all, where can I find this Flitz? And Sir William, you said you used a caranuaba wax. Like a car wax? What kind? Thanks.

Unfortunately the first time I cleaned it I used Hoppes. Ooops. Glad I posted this question.

-kasch
Springfield XD9 Sub-Compact
Sig Sauer P226 .40
Colt Official Police .38
Remington .36 Cap n ball repro
Remington 870
Enfield .58 Muzzleloader repro
 
Flitz can be had at many online gun supply houses, do a Google search to pick one. Lots of local gun shops stock it too, as for MPro-7, its great stuff and can be used on nickel finishes.
 
Nickel Plated Cleaning

You all may think I lost my mine. I had a old H & A with some flaking at the cylinder front. I took tooth paste and a electric tooth brush and it cleaned up pretty. Washed off with soap and water and blow dryed with the wife's hair blower. Sprayed gun oil after dry.
 
How about minimizing the impact of previous owners using the "wrong" cleaner? I just picked up a used nickel S&W M19 and it was delivered soaking wet with Hoppes. I've cleaned it up using a non-ammonia cleaner, but is there anything I can do to neutralize the ammonia, or should I just not worry about it?

-- Sam
 
I bought a nickle 27 not too long ago. An hour with Flitz made it so clean and shiny that I didn't want to shoot it and get it dirty again. I did and it cleaned up easily with brake parts cleaner. I use Rennaissance Wax on all my guns whether they are blue, stainless, or nickle,

John
 
ammonia

If Hoppes has ammonia in it, perhaps you better not use that! The guy who uses renwax on his guns-I thought that was for museum displays? Some cleaners will say on the label contains no ammonia, which should be safe? Well, I like shiny guns too but I have pretty much shied away from nickel on shooters and chose stainless instead. I have seen too many antique guns with nickel where it flaked off in chunks, which looks horrible and is what I visualise whenever I see a sweet looking nickel gun and start drooling over it. Apparently we all forgot about how to care for them when stainless guns elbowed out nickel in most catalogs. Must be old timers that understand it.
 
M-Pro7 cleaner will get your gun spotless, they have instructions on their website on how they recommend you clean with it. Then you can use their CLP or oil to re-lube the gun as the cleaner will remove ALL oil with the dirt. Its a great system. ;)
 
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