Revolver Actions

[Woody55]

I am used to shooting semi-automatic pistols, but I am developing an interest in revolvers. The few double action revolvers I've shot surprised me with how heavy and long the double action (start with hammer down in case I have the words wrong) trigger pull was.

What make has the best double action trigger pull? I am mainly interested in the .357 family.

 

[Whirlwind06]

Current production I would say S&W with Ruger a very close second. It takes some time to get accustomed to the DA triggers.

 

[Shotgun693]

I've carried a S&W revolver on and off for 35+ years. I'm biased. S&W are decent out of the box with some older guns real good because they've been shot a lot. S&W are really easy to work on if you don't have a heavy hand and go slow and take little steps. As a very general rule, springs can be lightened a little, rough spots can be lightly stoned and places that rub and shouldn't can be smoothed.
The M65 I carry had a pin on the hammer sticking out just a bit, a little stoning and it no longer rubs. The NRA disassemble instructions are easy to follow.

 

[lee n. field]

The few double action revolvers I've shot surprised me with how heavy and long the double action (start with hammer down in case I have the words wrong) trigger pull was.

See if you can get hold of a S&W Model 19 to try. I think you'll be surprised.

 

[Olympus]

If you want the current best production, check out the S&W Performance Center models.

Wolfe makes spring kits that will lighten the DA pull also.

 

[BigJimP]

I'm a little biased toward S&W revolvers as well...and the triggers are better in DA or SA than most other revolvers...

in the K frames ( medium sized frames) model 19's or 66's are both pretty good.

In the L frames ( a little bigger than the K frames ) mod 686's....

In the N frames ( large frame ) ...the model 27's ...have some of the best triggers out there in DA and SA

and while I have listed only models in .357 mag ...to me, they represent some of the better guns in the S&W lineup...and are still affordable / good long term guns that a person will love to have for many years...but S&W made a number of very good models in .22 / .38 spl / .41 mag / .44 mag / .45 acp ....etc...as well...

 

[Jerry11826]

Ruger GP100 or maybe an LCR. Don't have an LCR, but I have read the DA trigger pull is better than anything else currently available.

Jerry

 

[Japle]

The S&W revolvers I use in competition have DA pulls that are so light that people can't believe they'll set off primers, but they do, every time. I've never felt a pull like that on a Ruger.

Keep in mind that a super-slick revolver action has to be done by someone with lots of experience and knowledge. You won't find one on a factory gun, not even one from the Performance Center. They won't use anything except factory springs and a factory firing pin.

The S&W 327 shown below is a PC gun, but they didn't do the action.

 

[black mamba]

Who did? Who would you send an S&W N-frame to for the best action job?

 

[Webleymkv]

A DA revolver will always have a longer and heavier trigger than that of a SA semi-auto because the revolver must accomplish three tasks with each pull of the trigger (cock the hammer, release the hammer, rotate the cylinder) while a SA semi-auto only does one (release the hammer). Because of this, an out of the box trigger pull of 10lbs is not considered unusual or problematic on a DA revolver.

This does not mean, however, that a DA revolver cannot be shot as well or better than a semi-auto, only that a different technique may be necessary. One of the most common practices of those transitioning from a semi-auto to a revolver is to attempt to use the same placement of the trigger finger. Many semi-auto shooters place the pad of their first finger on the trigger as this is what gives them the best control with a SA trigger. While this technique works well with a SA, many people (myself included) find that placing the trigger in the distal joint of the first finger allows more leverage and better control when using a DA revolver.

Also, be aware that different revolvers will have different feeling actions. There are three basic action types upon which the majority of DA revolvers are based: Colt, S&W, and Ruger. The S&W action is preferred by many because it is the "smoothest" meaning that the weight of the pull is relatively consistent all the way through. The Colt, on the other hand, "stacks" most prominently meaning that the pull will become perceptibly heavier just before the hammer is released. Rugers are somewhere in between in that they stack more noticeably than a S&W, but not as noticeably as a Colt. Stacking isn't necessarily a bad thing but more a matter of personal preference: some like it and some don't.

Finally, small revolvers will usually have heavier triggers and medium and large frame ones. This is because the smaller, lighter hammer requires a stiffer mainspring in order to avoid light strikes and failures to fires. The exception to this is the Ruger LCR which has a surprisingly light trigger although it does seem noticeably longer than other revolvers of similar size.

 

[Lost Sheep]

You haven't experienced smooth until you have fired a Colt Double-Action.

Unfortunately, they are scarce. So Smith & Wesson from S&W Performance Center is pretty good.

The "stacking" of the Colt (seems to me) to be a good thing for fast double-action shooting because the inertia of the cylinder must be overcome at the start of the trigger stroke, so light spring pressure is a good thing. Later in the stroke, the cylinder is already rotating, so the heavier resistance of the spring kind of evens out the amount of force your finger must apply. This, of course, applies most when firing fast.

Welcome to the wonderful world of wheelguns.

Yes, it does take some getting used to.

Lost Sheep

 

[Japle]

Posted by black mamba:
Who would you send an S&W N-frame to for the best action job?

I'd send it to Clark Custom. After all, Jerry M is there and even if he doesn't personally do your action, whoever does will know what he's doing.

I do my own guns, but I've been doing S&Ws for over 40 years. I dropped my FFL years ago, so I can't help you.

 

[kcub]

A colt Anaconda is just like a good Smith, very smooth with no typical Colt stack.

Damn accurate as well.

 

[thibaultfelix40]

I like S&W J frames. Then again I bought myself a m34 22 kit gun and tried to wear it out and teach my self DA shooting. I thought the first time I shot it it was awful,but I was too broke to bail. But I hung in there and now I really like to shoot DA. J frames have a totally different action than other S&W's. My experience is to start with a 22.

 

[drail]

"I've never felt a pull like that on a Ruger". Me either. I like Rugers and own a bunch of them but they will never compare with a S&W no matter who "works" over the trigger pull or how light the springs are. I also agree with the fact that NO company sells a box stock revolver with a "nice" trigger pull. You have to pay a real revolversmith for that.

 

[Winchester_73]

I like Rugers and own a bunch of them but they will never compare with a S&W no matter who "works" over the trigger pull or how light the springs are. I also agree with the fact that NO company sells a box stock revolver with a "nice" trigger pull. You have to pay a real revolversmith for that.

I handled (dry fired) a Ruger security six IIRC that was SS (maybe it was a GP 100, its been a while) and that a disgustingly good trigger pull. You have to becareful when buying a revolver like that because stoning or grinding of parts can and often does wear them out prematurely. Chaning springs is fine as well as lubing the internals. I've read that a Ruger trigger job is harder to accomplish than anything else. I do think Colt triggers are pretty good, but not better than S&Ws overall. It depends on the model too - Colt D frame (small 38 special) and S&W J frames often do not have great triggers compared to their large target revolver brothers.

 

[Japle]

Years ago, I had a stainless Security Six that I dry-fired DA thousands of times. The action was very smooth and I won several matches with the gun, but it wasn't all that light, even after I installed lighter springs.

In 2008 I bought a GP100 and did everything I could with the action. There was just no way to get it as slick as my Smiths. I sold the gun to a Ruger fan who loved the action. I didn't let him try any of my Smiths.

 

[Webleymkv]

Years ago, I had a stainless Security Six that I dry-fired DA thousands of times. The action was very smooth and I won several matches with the gun, but it wasn't all that light, even after I installed lighter springs.

Due to the differences in their design, it is just about impossible to get a Ruger trigger as light as you can a S&W trigger without running into issues with unreliable primer ignition. This is because the Ruger uses a transfer-bar safety while the S&W uses a sliding hammer-block safety. You see, when a Ruger's hammer falls, some of it's energy is absorbed by the transfer bar and not imparted onto the firing pin. With a S&W, however, nearly all the energy is imparted to the firing pin in the case of a frame-mounted pin and directly to the primer in the case of a hammer-mounted pin.

The exception to this seems to be the Ruger LCR as its trigger is noticeably lighter than any I've ever felt on a J-Frame. I notice, however, that the LCR's pull seems noticeably longer and I wonder if the longer pull is a necessity in order to have both a light trigger and reliable primer ignition (I'm not familiar with the internals of an LCR as I've never seen one disassembled).