results from my first casting

R

riverratt

New member
I went out to the range yesterday to test my first batch of cast bullets out of my ruger sbh. The accuracy was much better than i expected averaging between 1'' and 3'' groups at 20yrds.

My loads and grouping as follows. (12 rounds ea.)

800X
9.5gr with about a 3" group leading in cylinder not barrel

10gr with about a 3" group same as above

10.5gr 2" group same as above

11gr touch over 1" group cylinder leading and slight barrel leading

11.5gr easily 1" group same leading as 11gr

12gr 2" group major leading both cylinder and barrel

Unique

6.5gr 3" groups leading in cylinder not barrel

7gr 3" groups same as above

7.5gr 2" groups same as above

8gr 2" groups same as above

8.5gr just under 2" groups leading in cylinder slight barrel leading

9gr just over 1" groups leading in cylinder slight barrel leading

If you notice all loads had cylinder leading. The leading was a ring just infront of the case mouth. I dont know what is causing this? Other than that my SBH has always liked the warmer loads. Anyone have any ideas on how to prevent the cylinder leading?
 
If you notice all loads had cylinder leading. The leading was a ring just infront of the case mouth. I dont know what is causing this? Other than that my SBH has always liked the warmer loads. Anyone have any ideas on how to prevent the cylinder leading?
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Could be two things that just jump into mind,

1) (if) you have slugged your bore it should be running in the .4295" area or so, and your cylinder chamber mouths should be running around .430" for all 6. It has been found that many run smaller which actually will size your bullet down, and then when it hits the forcing cone and leade into the rifling it is bumped back up by the pressure. this will lead to leading. One other thing is that in some Rugers where the barrel threads into the frame there is a constriction. This will lead to the same thing, having a properly sized bullet squeeze down then have to be bumped back up by pressure. This is usually found by slugging your bore and feeling the slug get tighter or harder to push right as you reach the frame.

2) which I hope is your case, it is simply a lube ring being deposited in the small gap right ahead of each case when you fire. This should remain consistent and not be a big issue. If you actually are seeing a lead ring, you might get with a smith and see if he has some pin gauges to check them out. It is only about $50 or so bucks to ream them to the proper size.

It's hard to determine exactly what is going on when you are in one place, and we are in another. We can however give you our best guesses to what is happening.

You mentioned leading in your barrel as well, where exactly is it being deposited the most? Usually if it's up close to the frame or forcing cone area it is a size issue. (possibly the above mentioned) If it is more along the end of the barrel towards the muzzle a good guess is it is a lube issue. The latter is pretty easily fixed by simply either changing or if your tumbling, trying a heavier coat.

Hope this helps.
 
RiverRatt,

In a previous post, you noted that the bullet were casting out at 0.430" This is good. :D

Rule of thumb cylinder throat test: If you can push those (lubed) bullets through and
out of the cylinder using a pencil/eraser, then the cylinder throat is is properly sized.
If they jam up and won't go through, then you need to ream the throats as noted by Mike/Tx
above.
 
You mentioned leading in your barrel as well, where exactly is it being deposited the most?
Click to expand...

Within the first 3" of the forcing cone.

Rule of thumb cylinder throat test: If you can pus bullets through and out of the cylinder using a pencil/eraser, then the is properly sized.
Click to expand...

The bullets do fit down the cylinders with a bit of force. I dont have to beat it jusr a firm push.
 
I dont have to beat it just a firm push.
Click to expand...
Then you've good cylinder throats for that bullet diameter. :)
Before I reamed the cylinders on my Ruger 45 Colt, I was getting literal chunks & rings
of actual lead that had been scraped off the bullet trying to go through too small an opening.
If all you get is lead scrapes and smears, you're OK.

BTW: What lube ?
 
BTW: What lube ?
Click to expand...

45/45/10

45% Lee liquid alox

45% johnson past wax

10% mineal spirits

I melted it all together and tumbled let drie for 4 hours and repeted.

Bullets are a 50/50is mix of lino type and pure lead (roof flashing). Molded and water ooled.

Could my bullets be to hard?

My goal is to creat 2 loads. One around 900-1000 fps for fun. The other i would like to match the POI of my hunting loads (240gr XTP at 1450fps book velocity) at 30yrds for practice.

For what its worth i may have found my problem. The male alighment pins set back and the mold wasnt aligning (about .006 out). I taped the mold behind the pins and put a set screw in. I just got threw casting 50 more without a problem so well see how it goes wendsday morn.

Thanks for all y'alls help so far.
 
Water-cooling is going to kick the BHN upwards of 20 (as compared to 14-15 air-cooled).
At anything less than higher pressures the bullet may tend to "skid" (rather than conform) when entering the rifling.

- I'd air-cool a batch to get hardness a more nominal 14-15
- Then I'd try an expriment with just a small batch: 1-part Lino/2-parts lead (BHN 10-11) air cooled

You might find the softer batch shoots really well, and at considerable velocities/without leading due to good bullet fit.
 
Thanks mehavey ill cast a few and let air cool before work and ill shoot thoes wendsday morn after work. If this dont work out guess ill try powder coating, ive herd that harbor freight has some for cheap that works well.
 
f you do decide to try powder coating the best results from Harbor Freight powder has been the red color. Powder buy the pound and Prismatic Powder both have really good powder that works well with the dry, airsoft bb tumbling methods, humidity has a good deal of bearing on how well the dry tumbling works, you want dry air for the static to build up, but you can always buy the pc gun to use it is supposed to work with all powders and humidity is not an issue.
 
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