Restoring a Remington New Model Army, need advice

H

hurlburt

Inactive
hey guys!

recently, i was lucky enough to come by an original Remington NMA frame and cylinder and would like to restore it to a shootable state. I have two questions, a) exactly which model should I buy parts for since its a little unclear which model it is, a nice fellow who seemed to know what he was talking about said its a NMA with a Beals barrel. and b) the best place to buy replacement parts for original Rem's that will require the least amount of modification.

I'll add some pics, but it has a couple of obvious traits:

-has the exposed barrel threads
-it has the dovetail slot for the german silver front sight
-serial # is 28XX
-notches in cylinder for safe carry

Really looking forward to getting started, thanks for the help!

IMG00140-20130310-1911.jpg


IMG00143-20130310-1912.jpg


IMG00145-20130310-1913.jpg


IMG00148-20130310-1915.jpg
 
I do not know much about aquiring parts. Looking at the cyl & nipples I would get it soaking in a mix of transmission fluid for a few days. Looks to me like that would be a good start. Those nipples are going to be tough to remove. Good luck on the project. And welcome to the forum. In just a few hours you will have a bunch of good advice from experts. So stay tuned.
 
If you're not familiar with the Remington New Model, I'd invest in a reproduction and learn about its internals, what parts do what and go where, etc. You can swap parts to see what fits, see what might have to be modified. You could learn to shoot the repro before shooting the original (again, if you don't already know how). And, you can always sell the repro.
I would soak the cylinder in automatic transmission fluid and acetone for a few days to try and loosen the nipples enough to remove them. If they don't come out you can have them drilled out or leave them alone if they're usable.
Is that a nickle finish?

Remington-Beals .36
New Model .44
DSCF4151.jpg
 
wow, i really appreciate all of your help, thanks!

Spitpatch, tranny fluid? good call, i'll try it!


Doc Hoy, i think its going to be dixie. that's the only place i see that has most of the parts for remingtons, numrich, and a couple other places didn't seem to have the full kit, thanks!


Hawg, like i said, i was going on what some guy said who seemed to know about the beals barrel and NMA frame/cylinder. i don't suppose it affects ordering of the parts, even if it is a beals barrel. thanks for the manufacture date, you know something is old, but hearing a date makes it extra cool, thanks!

Pohill, i have a repro Rem pocket model that functions well. would the working parts be the same for it as the NMA? it doesn't appear to be a nickel finish, just worn blueing. thanks!
 
I'd get (buy, borrow) a repro New Model .44 and try swapping parts before buying individual parts. I have an original New Model that came with two repro cylinders - one fit, one didn't. You have to fit grips, hammer, trigger, trigger guard, loading lever, internals, etc. That could get pricey buying each part without knowing if they fit beforehand.
It looks like a a fun project.
 
Spitpatch, tranny fluid? good call, i'll try it!
Click to expand...
That's ATF AND acetone, mixed 50/50. ATF alone won't do it.

The identification of the barrel as a Beals might be from a stamp. I believe the Remington-Beals revolvers were marked "BEALS PATENT SEPT, 14, 1858..." on the barrel.

This could be one of the second design Remington Army revolvers; they had the frame cutout that exposed barrel threads and later production included the cylinder safety notches. They were stamped "PATENTED DEC. 17, 1861...", but some may have used the barrels stamped with the Beals marking. It's also possible it was put together or repaired from parts by an armorer during the war.
 
Last edited:
I would soak the cylinder in automatic transmission fluid and acetone for a few days to try and loosen the nipples enough to remove them. If they don't come out you can have them drilled out or leave them alone if they're usable.
Click to expand...

I use Ed's Red (equal parts ATF, Acetone, Kerosene & Mineral Spirits) for cleaning. However, for seized metal, Kroil or Liquid Wrench would be the way to go, IMO.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top