Resizing help 7mm Rem Mag ?

geopat53

New member
I recently acquired an older Ruger 1-S . My Lee resizing die is not reaching the last 1/4in. and the cases fired in my 1-B will not close in the action of my 1S.
Would someone that knows what they are talking about please advise me as to a full length resizing die that will cure this problem?? Or am I stuck with separate cases for each rifle??
I am primarily a hunter and can live with MOA . (Not that I don’t try for better)
Regards,
Pat
 
welcome to TFL

First step, be sure you are full length sizing. I mean the FL sizer die is tight against the shell holder with the ram fully extended.

If that is being done already, or if you do it and it doesn't solve your problem, then look for a different sizer die. Borrow one (or two) if possible. My personal preference is Lyman or RCBS. There are other good brands out there as well. Lee is my last choice for dies, but its a style, feature and finish thing with me, not a functional reason.

Rifles shooting belted or rimmed cases are generally set up to headspace on the belt/rim, chamber variations ahead of that are not unknown. Its possible for a rifle to have an oversize chamber and still have correct headspace

Get another sizer die, adjust it right, and see what happens. I expect that should solve your problem, but one never knows until its tested with your stuff.

Good Luck.
 
Yes, I’ve checked my die setup to make sure as full length as possible. Can just finish down stroke as it gets tight.
I am pretty sure that I need a different sizing die.
I am looking for qualified recommendations on which would be the best.
I say qualified because everyone has an opinion , not everyone has practical experience.
(No reference to those that have already offered help whatsoever.)
Tks,
Pat
 
Its a can of worms to explain. Odds are,with technique,the dies you have will PROBABLY work.
But one of the advantages of handloading is tailoring ammo to fit your rifle. You have two rifles. One wears a 54 Long suit jacket,the other is a 38 regular.
You are the tailor.
I'll suggest you will make two different loads,one for each rifle.
I had two different 7mm Rem rifles. One a Husky 5000,a light,handy hunting rifle. The other a Win M-70 Classic Laredo. A heavier,26 in bbl ,longer range rifle.
They were chambered with different "headspace" tolerances.
When a gun is made, the chamber will have a feature that limits the depth the ammo will go into the chamber . Its the "stop".
It might be the rim,or the belt,or the case shoulder,or the case mouth.
The distance from the breech face to this "stop" feature is called "HEADSPACE"
That term gets misused a lot. Headspace is all in the gun's chamber.

We care how the ammo fits the gun's chamber. The space between the cartridge case head and the breech face of a round in the chamber is called "head clearance".

Obviously,we need some,to close the breech. With the exception of self-loaders,like a Garand, The Handloader often shoots for .002 in. The breech will close easily, but during firing,the brass will not be stretched excssively.
Study up in a loading manual about case stretch,case head seperations, the paper clip trick,etc.

Minimizing case stretch is a major factor in brass life.Its not unusual for 7mm Rem brass to have stretch rings after 4 loadings. With only one rifle.

7mm Rem and all belted magnums are designed to headspace on the belt.
The design was also toleranced so if you were in Africa facing dangerous game,it would not be finnicky. Some head clearance is intentional,and "number of handloads" was not a priority. About .005 in might be a typical factory head clearance.

One more factor you are dealing with. The belt is designed to be the controlling headspace feature. Competition from the case shoulder is not the plan. So the chamber will typically be cut deep enough to provide extra clearance at the shoulder.Again,production tolerances come into play.

The case shoulder will fire form to however your chamber was cut.

Advanced handloaders take advantage of the fireformed brass. They measure and adjust resizing to get that .002 head clearance from the shoulder for that particular rifle.

That does not work if you have two rifles with different chambers. I know that well.

I was shooting my Husky hunting rifle less than my M-70 Laredo. I saw a run of nickel plated brass came available. I ordered a few hundred for the Husky. I used plain WW for the M-70. I sized the brass to fit the rifle.

Reloading dies don't move the belt. They can resize the shoulder. You can obtain the means to take a comparative measurement from the case head to a diameter on the shoulder,and adjust to size back the desired amount.

Hornady makes a caliper attachment that will take that measurement.

I have not seen anything from him lately,but I will credit a Curmudgeon known as Mr Guffey with a technique.

If you need to size your brass a few thousandths shorter, you can do it in a measured fashion by slipping an automotive feeler gage between the shellholder and the case head. It will serve as a shim, and you may find what works.

Good luck!

One more thing. You can get interference on a length,or on a diameter. All that I wrote about was lengths. Some sharpie ink on the case will scrape off in the rifle if you have a diameter issue.

Use your calipers,too. For SOME rifles,particularly Remington semi-autos,small base dies can be an answer. But be careful. Small base dies are recommended for more often than they are the correct answer.
A die can be polished to have some bell mouth in mfgr. For that 1/4 in,the Lee die may have a bell mouth problem.

You can try another brand of die,or, I believe Lee might make a collet type die that might squeeze that last 1/4 in. I do not have such a thing,so I don't know for sure.

Also,make sure your press is not stretching or flexing under load. Ram up,under full resizing load, see if light can leak in to the space between the shellholder and the die.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, all good stuff.
Already did most but really enjoyed learning a couple new tricks.
I think that I’ll probably let the 1B go if the 1S proves as or more accurate.
Really like the feel of the 1S and of course the iron sights.
And yes, I am seriously considering taking it with me to South Africa in August. So I really need to know what it likes.
Regards,
Pat

PS I really appreciate the time you took to elaborate so thoroughly!
 
An H & H rep told me their belted magnum cartridges were designed to work flawlessly in both bolt action box magazine and double barrel rifles. 375 H&H was the first one.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belted_magnum

I think Sierra Bullets came up with a way to full length size belted case bodies all the way to the belt. That eliminated the ridge a few thousandths forward of the belt that caused accuracy problems as the firing pin drives it into the chamber. Larry Willis makes a die that does the same thing. https://www.larrywillis.com/
 
Last edited:
One more little trick to try, your lube.

Can just finish down stroke as it gets tight.

Consider changing your lube, or changing the amount of lube used. Other tricks are leaving the case in the sizer die for a bit (so the brass "gets accustomed" to the new size and doesn't spring back quite as much), and even sizing the case, lowering the ram, rotating the case 180 (possibly relubing) and sizing it again.

One of, or a combination of these tricks MIGHT be the answer, and if not, you can at least eliminate them as factors.

Also, size a case or three without the decapping stem in place (or at least backed off), just to see, if MAYBE the brass is contacting it, which could be what makes that last little bit of the ram stroke so difficult...

I'd still get a new die set though, but, that's just me.
 
The Willis tool will solve the fit problem, but segregating your brass by gun will mean you have to work the brass less at each resizing, so it will last longer. Resizing so the shoulders of the case and chamber are within a thousandth or two of making contact will have you working it even less, all as HiBC said.

I'll move this thread to the handloading forum, which is more appropriate for the topic.
 
My first 7mag die was Lyman. I now have RCBS and they are stellar. After first load, I don't FL size because the case is fitted for the chamber. I load for a friends and his chamber is slightly different, even though they are Rem 700. Have to keep the brass separate.
 
I recently acquired an older Ruger 1-S . My Lee resizing die is not reaching the last 1/4in. and the cases fired in my 1-B will not close in the action of my 1S.
Would someone that knows what they are talking about please advise me as to a full length resizing die that will cure this problem?? Or am I stuck with separate cases for each rifle??
I am primarily a hunter and can live with MOA . (Not that I don’t try for better)
Regards,
Pat
Dedicate brass to both rifles. You can find a die that will size your brass down small enough, as above stated. If you go back and forth from big to tight chamber, and size to tight chamber, you will soon get first hand experience with the notorious belt/ case separations and they are not fun.
 
Unclenick has the correct answer. I believe the name of his firm is Innovative technologies. The die is rather expensive but will work for your problem as well as quite a few other calibers. I use one for a 300 Weatherby magnum. Mr. Willis's first name is Larry.
 
Last edited:
Did you figure out where the brass is too tight? It is generally too tight in the CBTD measurement, but can be contacting bullet to throat, shoulder or base just above the belt. Covering these areas with black marksalot and trying to close the action 5 times should scuff the marksalot telling you where it is tight.

Tell us what you find.
 
Cases freshly trimmed and prepped.
Bullet seated .010 from lands.
As I said, I set the sizing die to not let me quite finish the down stroke and then backed off just enough to allow me to finish the stroke under light tension.
No the depriving pin/expander is not contacting bottom of case.
Bottom line conclusion is that :
: I need separate cases for these rifles as many of you told me.
: I just received in the mail a new Redding Master Hunter Die Set
 
I've always got best accuracy with belted cases 2 die sizing them. First die sized only the body all the way to the belt. Second die was gelded sizing only the neck and set the shoulder back just enough to let the case headspace there centering the bullet and neck when the firing pin impact pushed the cartridge to its limits. 20 shots inside 5 inches at 1000 yards in each of two tests.
 
Last edited:
As I said, I set the sizing die to not let me quite finish the down stroke and then backed off just enough to allow me to finish the stroke under light tension.

I've never heard of "full length" sizing in this way . Backing the die out will never allow you to size the case as much as the die will allow . Add to that press deflection/flex and there is no way you are bumping your shoulder enough . My guess is your breach face to chamber shoulder datum measurement is different for each rifle . Size your cases so they fit in the shorter chamber and they will fire in both . This will result on the longer chamber being harder on brass but you will be able to use the cases in both rifles .

As 44 pointed out the die and shell holder need to make firm contact on the up stroke in order to size the case to the dies max ability . Only then will you know if you need a new die . Sizing a case based on how hard it is to size is nothing I've ever heard of before . You either need more/better lube or a stronger press .

This all assumes I'm understanding your comments correctly :eek:;)
 
Metal god,

I asked several die makers what full length sizing means. They all said reducing the fired case outside dimensions any amount. That can enable several dozen reloads per case. Some people have reloaded 308 Winchester cases over 50 times with full length sizing dies set to move the shoulder back about .001 inch and the shellholder never touches the die.

From SAAMI'S glossary....

FULL LENGTH RESIZING
The operation of reforming a fired cartridge case to approximately its original dimensions.

FULL LENGTH SIZING
The operation of reforming a fired cartridge case to approximately its original dimensions.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top