Replacing S&W mim parts?

S

stubbicatt

New member
I really like my Thunder Ranch 45 revolver, but the seam down the back of the hammer irritates me. Anybody here replace the mim parts with milled parts? Will the parts need to be properly mated to keep the excellent trigger pull?

Revolver functions flawlessly, this is more an issue of aesthetics. Though, in truth, the hole on the left of the frame for the lock is even more of a "mustache on the mona lisa", there is nothing I can do about that...

What would be a good source to buy a replacement hammer?

Thanks guys.
 
Revolver functions flawlessly
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You’ve got a handgun that you seem very satisfied with, so why change it? The change will most likely not improve the performance of the gun and might impact it in a negative way. Obviously it’s your gun and I sort of understand your motivation to get rid of the MIM parts, but is it really worth it.
 
If you can live without a hammer spur, the Apex hammer is an excellent replacement. They used to sell the hammer without the sear, in which case a sear needed to be fitted. But it looks like it now comes with a sear, but I'd ask if any additional fitting is required.

If you must have a full hammer, and it must be forged (and for a gun with a frame-mounted-firing pin), you'll likely need to find a Performance Center hammer. The thing is, it looks like PC guns now use MIM parts, so you'll have to find an early PC hammer for a gun with a frame-mounted firing pin. My bet is it'll take some looking. And it'll likely need to be fitted.

Personally, if you want to keep it DA/SA, I'd just leave the hammer be. Invest in a good action job instead.
 
Smith MIM parts are not exactly the same as the forged parts & forged are not an across-the-board direct replacement.
Denis
 
Personally, if you want to keep it DA/SA, I'd just leave the hammer be. Invest in a good action job instead.
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Although that is not bad advice, he stated his objection to the hammer was solely due to the visible seam...an action job would seem not to be his requirements.
 
dahermit said:
he stated his objection to the hammer was solely due to the visible seam...an action job would seem not to be his requirements.
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Understood.

If the OP wants to keep the hammer SA/DA, my suggestion was to leave it be (and put up with the seam)...or do as you recommended and polish the seam away.

It's my opinion that money spent on replacing a SA/DA hammer with another SA/DA hammer is functionally better spent elsewhere...like on an action job.
 
If I were to endeavour to remove the seam through polishing or some sort of sanding or the like, I am concerned that the case hardening would also be removed from the surrounding metal. This would make it even more unsightly than it is already.

Perhaps the advice to leave it be is the best advice. Perhaps like coming upon a car wreck, I would do well to simply avert my gaze. :rolleyes:

I must say I am impressed with the piece. The action is smooth and pleasant to use. It is my preferred CCW piece.
 
I'm not sure you could find a replacement forged hammer that'd fit.

Most of the forged hammers used the older hammer nose/firing pin on the hammer.
The MIMs on the N-Frames that use them have frame-mounted firing pins.

The PC carried on with forged for a while after the switch, I have forged hammers from them to fit two N-Frames with frame-mounted pins.
One's in a PC 1917 & the other I got along with a forged trigger to eventually stick in a transitional .45 ACP Mountain Gun built with MIMs but before the lock.

As far as I know, those are long gone & the PC's using MIMs like the rest of the company, as Mr. Borland said, but you could ask.
DO NOT START WITH REGULAR CUSTOMER SERVICE, they don't know much.
Get with the PC directly.

Anything you do get, if you can find a forged hammer without a firing pin, WILL have to be fitted, for best function.
It won't be a drop-in part. S&W went to MIMs to reduce hand-fitting, and a replacement might function, or might not. To get the best function, fitted.
Denis
 
Howdy

Earlier this year I did a detailed photo essay about the differences between MIM parts and more traditional forged and machined parts in a S&W Model 17-3 and a 617-6 on another forum. While not about a Thunder Ranch 45, you may find it useful because the two revolvers examined are the same basic model, but one is Stainless with MIM parts and the other is blued with forged and machined parts.

Clearly, with these two revolvers some of the parts are very different and will not interchange.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=769929
 
The smith "heritage" reissues have the virtue of looking almost like the revolvers made during their "Golden Era." When Smith came out with MIM parts (and possibly still) they were very well put together and accurate. I have a model 617 that is extremely accurate and has fired enough rounds without any degredation to demonstrate that MIM can be durable. I have two earlier .22-s a K=22 and a Model 17. All are very accurate, have great actions and which one seems most accurate varies from one day to the next.

If the hole in the side is the (L-o-c-k) someboyd has made a plug to fill in the hole after the owner removes he lock and throws it away. If the lock doesn't cause problems it can be ignored just like they did pre WWII when the pin went all the way through on the bottom of the cylinder latch instead of the top.
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You could call the PC at S&W and tell them about the seam. Ask if they will refinish the hammer so the seam is gone.

I have a model 22 TR 45 also and it is a great revolver the bluing job on it is fantastic so I ignore the lock and mim hammer. My TR does not have a visible seam so clearly yours is a finishing defect that should be addressed by the warranty.
 
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