I have a S&W model 10 with a 4 inch barrel. Since I'd like to get a snub nose for carry, would I be better off replacing the 4 inch barrel with a 2 inch? With decent snub nose revolvers around $500 it seems like a good option. How much would it cost to make that change? Thanks for your help.
Replacing a S&W model 10 barrel
- Thread starter chupps
- Start date
Cost wise, it'd probably be a wash by the time you get done. You'll have the gunsmith's labor to install the barrel on top of all the parts necessary.
You'd need to order:
- Barrel 2"
- Extractor Rod, 2"
- Center Pin, 2"
- Center Pin spring
- Extractor Spring, 2"
- Barrel pin
Things get even more exciting if your Model 10 is older and has the standard right-hand threads for the extractor (parts are almost unavailable).
The barrel pin is removed and with the frame in a proper jig to prevent distorting the frame, the barrel is unscrewed from the frame. The new barrel is screwed on. It won't line up perfectly and the 'smith will have to carefully file down the barrel shoulder until he can just align the barrel with a snug threaded fit. This usually requires about six spin-on/spin-off cycles.
The cylinder is disassembled and the 2" barrel components are installed. Check for function. Slowly close the cylinder
and check the flash gap. If it is too small or contacts the cylinder the forcing cone must be filed down perfectly square. If it is too large, remove the barrel and file more of the shoulder down until the gap is correct (.003-.006). Remove barrel and cold blue the bare metal. Spin it back on and install the barrel pin. Check for open/close function several times. Cycle action several times & recheck extractor tightness. Inspect Cylinder timing on each chamber.
See, simple!
You'd need to order:
- Barrel 2"
- Extractor Rod, 2"
- Center Pin, 2"
- Center Pin spring
- Extractor Spring, 2"
- Barrel pin
Things get even more exciting if your Model 10 is older and has the standard right-hand threads for the extractor (parts are almost unavailable).
The barrel pin is removed and with the frame in a proper jig to prevent distorting the frame, the barrel is unscrewed from the frame. The new barrel is screwed on. It won't line up perfectly and the 'smith will have to carefully file down the barrel shoulder until he can just align the barrel with a snug threaded fit. This usually requires about six spin-on/spin-off cycles.
The cylinder is disassembled and the 2" barrel components are installed. Check for function. Slowly close the cylinder
and check the flash gap. If it is too small or contacts the cylinder the forcing cone must be filed down perfectly square. If it is too large, remove the barrel and file more of the shoulder down until the gap is correct (.003-.006). Remove barrel and cold blue the bare metal. Spin it back on and install the barrel pin. Check for open/close function several times. Cycle action several times & recheck extractor tightness. Inspect Cylinder timing on each chamber.
See, simple!