Replacement parts for 1911

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P71pilot

New member
Right now my Springfield loaded model 1911A1 is about 2 or 3 years old and has about 1400rds through the pipe. I have been extremely impressed with the fit, accuracy, quality, and overall performance of the handgun thus far. I shoot it really well and I love the factory tritium night sights on it. Anyways, I know that most of the internal parts are MIM (which is not really an issue, just not as strong as possible) and I would like to slowly collect replacement parts for the internals. The only thing I have replaced so far is the trigger, as I didn't really like the stock long 3 hole silver trigger. I replaced it with a black Harrison designs trigger which took quite a bit of filing and fitting to get to work and operate perfectly. I am extremely impressed with the new trigger though, and have about 350rds through the gun with the new trigger. Anywho, what parts would you acquire first (I will not be installing them until something breaks, and will purchase a 1911 work book as well)?

Which MIM part/s do you think will fail first? Being a springer it is series 70

-set of springs
-disconnector
-barrel link and pin
-extractor
-ejector
- firing pin

What do you 1911 users think?

Whatever parts I do order I will be sure to buy quality renowned parts, like Ed brown, nowlin, Wilson combat bulletproof etc.., nice quality hard steel parts

Springfield Armory has an excellent warranty and service, but I personally don't think this nice pretty civilized world we have now will last forever, and one day I may have to gather everything I can carry and drag and head out to the woods. I want to be able to maintain my weapons, and have fully disassembled my 1911 4-5 times and replaced the trigger so I am at a decent start

Opinions, tips, criticisms, experiences
 
I wouldn't buy anything until something breaks - if it does..../ I only put Wilson parts in my 1911's. ..and they're readily available...in my local shops, Brownells, etc....

Springs are the exception - they're all routine maintenance - recoil spring at about 5,000 rds / firing pin spring at about 10,000 and main spring at about 30,000 rds / so buy a couple of spring kits..../ or consider the new Wilson flat springs ( Wilson says up to 10 times life of a standard spring - but I have not tested them - not even in my Wilson's...)

In all my years of shooting 1911's. ... i've only had one extractor break and it was probably at 40,000 rds or so - quick easy fix...keep the gun clean and properly lubed and it should be fine.../ and I easily run 10,000 rds a yr thru my primary 1911....
 
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I wouldnt single out any of the MIM parts. Powder metal technology is outstanding and in many cases superior to billet. If your itching to replace parts then go ahead. Wolf springs, Wilson extractor, slide pin, etc...Schuman barrel and link. Many of the top manufacturers of custom guns sell quality parts like Wilson, Les Baer, Nighthawk, EGW, etc.. The only thing I have been able to break (wear out) on my Kimber has been the springs. I also ruined the chamber and had to replace the barrel. That was 100% my fault not the guns. It has many thousands of rounds more than your springfield.
 
Unfortunately, I don't keep a round count, but my SA has been a regular IDPA match and practice gun for about 1/3 of my shooting for several years now.

The only parts replaced after the initial competition setup with magwell funnel replacing ILS and a Colt sear spring as part of the trigger job have been the slide stop and the extractor/firing pin stop.
The slide stop because I never could get it to quit either engaging prematurely or not engaging reliably. If yours works, it should last.

The extractor "clocked" and would not hold tension, so I got a better extractor and a tight firing pin stop.
I think a fitted spare extractor would be worth having around. "Fitted"; get it in the gun and working so it is a quick changeout, not a gunsmithing project when you need it in a hurry.
 
This sounds like another case of unwarranted fear of MIM. That's kinda silly. Another fear of the unknown. Did you know that connecting rods used in GM V8 engines (Corvette, Camaro, trucks) are made through a MIM process?

The wee tiny wear surfaces in gun undergo very little stress. It would take a seriously crap part or many thousands of rounds to fail.


In short, don't worry about it. Enjoy your gun. It seems to work just fine.
 
I've owned four Springfields, manufactured between 2003-2015, and I didn't notice any parts that appeared sub-standard.
I wouldn't necessarily replace a part because it's MIM, if it's working, but I have been guilty of replacing cast and MIM with "better" parts.

If you need a part, and that part is made by EGW, you need look no further.
Their parts are often oversized and "gunsmith fit", even when the part is something that is usually expected to be drop-in, like a slide stop (had to shape it to fit the notch on the slide, and had to deepen the slot to allow the slide stop to rise completely into the slide notch).

I've also had good luck with Wilson Combat, Ed Brown, and Cylinder & Slide.
C&S's "drop-in" hammer/sear/spring sets are very good.

Some Springfields have glued-in ejectors, without the standard retaining pin, so if you do replace the ejector, it's going to require drilling the frame, in addition to cutting the notch in the ejector leg for the pin, if you don't want to "stick to" glue for retention.
 
Replacement recoil springs are always good to have on hand, as are a set of all the other springs in the gun.

And not because the other parts may or may not be MIM, but extra firing pins, extractors, ejectors and disconnectors are just a smart thing to have around in case something does break. It is said: "Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it."

As far as Kimber, Wilson, Brown or anyone else with a "name," if you buy genuine GI surplus parts, you are guaranteed of getting all steel, non MIM parts.

Don't pay for a "name."
 
Some people do like to keep spares, and you want the replacement to be pre-fitted, if it's a part like an extractor which has to be individually fitted to the gun.
I carry around parts that I think I'm going to lose (grip screw, recoil spring plug, firing pin/spring), as much as parts that I think might break (extractor, mag catch lock).
 
Some people do like to keep spares, and you want the replacement to be pre-fitted, if it's a part like an extractor which has to be individually fitted to the gun.
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This I never got.:confused:

I didn't get into building 1911s until about 35 years ago or so after the surplus ones started drying up. In all that time, I never had to hand fit an extractor other than to try to get as close to a flush fit as possible where it sticks out the back. None of the guns had extraction problems. Now, having said that, the guns I built were basic 1911s, and I have always used only military surplus parts, which is why I suggest to the OP to use surplus parts as spares.

Now I'm stuck using Armscor frames and Brazilian slides (:mad:) but I still build using only GI parts and they always seem to work OK.
 
The first an only MIM part on my 1911 Kimber Eclipse in 45ACP that broke, was the ejector at the 18,000 round mark. May I suggest replacing that MIM part first.

I would stick with chrome silicon recoil springs.
 
Some people do like to keep spares, and you want the replacement to be pre-fitted, if it's a part like an extractor which has to be individually fitted to the gun.

This I never got.

I didn't get into building 1911s until about 35 years ago or so after the surplus ones started drying up. In all that time, I never had to hand fit an extractor other than to try to get as close to a flush fit as possible where it sticks out the back. None of the guns had extraction problems. Now, having said that, the guns I built were basic 1911s, and I have always used only military surplus parts, which is why I suggest to the OP to use surplus parts as spares.
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If you were always working with Mil-Spec parts, that would explain it. And, 5" .45s aren't especially sensitive to extractor tension.
Try installing a new, aftermarket extractor from one maker, in a slide from another maker, with a firing pin stop from another, etc.
 
If you were always working with Mil-Spec parts, that would explain it. And, 5" .45s aren't especially sensitive to extractor tension.
Try installing a new, aftermarket extractor from one maker, in a slide from another maker, with a firing pin stop from another, etc
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I have done that as a favor to certain folks, but only for certain folks. I try to stay away from working on off brands. I do, however, have to agree with you on fitting on those rare occasions somebody suckers me in to working on a Kimber or Wilson. (Usually someone from local law enforcement but ONLY as a favor. LOL:D)
 
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