Replacement of riveted grips on Remington 51 pistol

cjwils

New member
I am thinking buying a Remington Model 51 pistol. In order to save money I might buy one that needs to have the grips replaced. Replacement grips seem to be available on the internet from multiple sources. But my concern is that this model appears to have the grips held in place by rivets. (I say "appears" because I have never actually seen one of these pistols up close.) The attached photo shows an example. The grips have the same round rivet heads on both sides of the gun. So what is the process to replace these grips? Is a special tool needed for the rivets?
 

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Per Jim's post on the Highroad:

The grips have metal backing plates that fit into cuts in the frame. To remove the grips, press in (upward) on the hammer spring plug at the bottom rear of the grip. With the plug depressed, push the cross pin above it flush with the frame on one side. The grip on that side can now be slid down and disengaged from the frame. Repeat the process with the other side, pushing the pin flush with the frame on that side. Re-install in reverse.

Where are you at Jim?:D
 
That was as far as I needed to go to answer the question at the time. If you need to replace the hard rubber grips (I presume they are cracked or broken), you get a new set, then break or cut the rivets out of the old grips. Then carefully drive them out of the backing plates and resize the rivets as necessary. Then you put the new grips on the backing plate and reinstall the rivets through the grips and the backing plate and expand the rivet end. Actually, it is easier than it sounds; just take some care, especially when reinstalling the rivets; make sure not to break the new grips.

The new grips will be plastic, not hard rubber and will take more abuse, but still take care. Here is a source I have found good in the past:

http://gungrip.com/g50remington51autogrips.aspx

Jim
 
A wonderful pistol but a good example of the need to learn how to operate and take apart a gun by reading instructions .There are many that you need to know the tricks !:rolleyes:
 
I once had a PA 51 but foolishly sold it because it would not reliably feed hollowpoints. (So now what do I put in my Colt? FMJ.)

I know the Pedersen "hesitation" action was designed to avoid infringing Colt/Browning patents.

The riveted backing plate grips seem awful complicated. Could it be that Browning had screw attachment of autopistol grips covered? I note that the Savage pistol grips have no screws, either.

Mr Browning's patents were tremendously comprehensive.
Winchester's 1911 shotgun, known as the Widowmaker, had to be cocked by hauling back the barrel with its knurled band because Browning A5 patent included a cocking handle on the bolt.
The BHP did not reach its final form until D. Saive could put in Colt/Browning design features after the patents ran out.
 
"Could it be that Browning had screw attachment of autopistol grips covered?"

Yes, along with the idea of a breechblock and slide in one piece. See Savage, S&W, Davis-Warner, and Remington.

The ironic thing about the Auto 5 is that Winchester anticipated Browning's acceptance of their usual arrangement of buying production rights, and had their patent attorneys draw up and file the patent papers on the gun, in Browning's name. When Browning demanded a royalty agreement and the deal fell through, Winchester's T.C. Johnson was faced with a very tight and comprehensive patent drawn up by his own company! Talk about frustration! :mad:


Jim
 
I decided to reply to this old thread because it shows up in web searches a lot ... please don't break your old grips! The metal grip plate on the back of the grip panels can be removed without breaking anything. It's not *easy* but it can be done.
The grip plate has about the size, shape and friendliness of a razor blade, and may be sort of "glued down" by old grease and dirt, but with some careful work it can come off.
The center of the metal plate has to be pried away from the grip panel a very, very small amount, to clear the small post on the back of the grip panel. An actual razor blade might work for this. While it is clear, push the metal plate so that the two metal pins line up with the big holes in their keyhole-shaped slots. Watch out -- the edges and corners of the metal plate are sharp, and may be rusty; have you had your tetanus shots?
Once the grip plate is removed, the two metal pins, or posts, will fall out of the "front" of the grip panel.
Happy shooting!
R51%20with%20holster.JPG
 
The grips are from Triple K, they have about 20 color options for the Model 51; these are "iridescent ivory". The holster is a 1920s Heiser; the box is a repro of the original shipping box from Rediscovered Shooting Treasures
The map is of early 1930s Shanghai, China.

The nickel finish isn't original; someday when I'm rich I'll have it stripped and refinished. When I bought it a single nickel-plated magazine was included.
 
What a fine pistol ! I was sorry when I traded mine for a HK P7. It's a type of delayed action which does reduce recoil a bit . They also made a prototype for the Marines but too late as the 1911 was al ready established . Remington should be ashamed for such a poor job on the new R1.
 
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