I have an otherwise dandy, cheap (did I mention cheap) stainless 1911 with all the bells and whistles that fits my hand like a glove in the safe next to my Gold Cup. It groups 2 3/4 to 3 at 25 yards, but is a whole lot easier to shoot fast. The manufacturers rep said adding a Kart barrel has made them tack drivers for him, meaning 1 1/2 inches or less. Does that sound right, and where do I get a Kart barrel? I'd really like to learn to do it myself, and I have time, but please tell me if I'd be better off hiring it done. Any advice at all will be greatly appreciated. Also, where to learn about Kart barrels and their services. Lastly, can I put a carbon steel barrel in the stainless frame without ill effects? Thanks
Replacement barrel for 1911
- Thread starter cptmclark
- Start date
CaptainRazor
New member
You could get your barrel here: Brownells
The site is .asp, so I can't give you a direct link.
Just do a search for "Kart 1911 barrel".
As for the fitting of it, you'd better wait for the other guys to chime in, I've swapped them out before, but only on "run-of-the-mill" mil-spec type 1911's.
As you probably already know, there's more to it than just dropping in the new barrel and bushing.
Let the veterans on the board guide you on any tips that might work out better for you.
The site is .asp, so I can't give you a direct link.
Just do a search for "Kart 1911 barrel".
As for the fitting of it, you'd better wait for the other guys to chime in, I've swapped them out before, but only on "run-of-the-mill" mil-spec type 1911's.
As you probably already know, there's more to it than just dropping in the new barrel and bushing.
Let the veterans on the board guide you on any tips that might work out better for you.
Dave Sample
Moderator
I have taught about 100 students to fit Kart NM Barrels in the last 10 years. Our Online 1911 Class guns all have Kart EZ Fit (Big Joke) NM barrels in them and they are great shooters. The first class at the College that was written up in Guns Magazine, we used gunsmith fit barrels and did the whole 9 yards, cutting the lugs with a lug cutter, etc. They all test fired at about 1/2 " at the indoor range which was probably 20 yards max.
Fred Kart is the best in the business as far as I am concerned. I have never bothered with anything else in living memory. He does not do SS as I do not do SS in barrels. It is a different metal and I prefer the carbon steel that he uses.
EZfit is not really a good description but this came about because when Les Baer started building guns, they were coming apart so Fred had to write him directions so he would quit killing the barrels. He still has never learned to fit a 1911 up from round 1 to round 100,000.
You need some things to do it yourself.
1.You need to buy the installation kit that he sells. It is quality stuff and will last many years.
2. You must have the ability to understand written directions.
3. You must have some common sense.
4. You must have the money to buy the barrel and the kit.
5. You need a quiet place to work with a vice and some good light.
6. You need about 10 to 15 hours of spare time for the first one.
7. You need a friend like me who will ream the chamber for you when you complete your installation.
Piece of CAKE!
Fred Kart is the best in the business as far as I am concerned. I have never bothered with anything else in living memory. He does not do SS as I do not do SS in barrels. It is a different metal and I prefer the carbon steel that he uses.
EZfit is not really a good description but this came about because when Les Baer started building guns, they were coming apart so Fred had to write him directions so he would quit killing the barrels. He still has never learned to fit a 1911 up from round 1 to round 100,000.
You need some things to do it yourself.
1.You need to buy the installation kit that he sells. It is quality stuff and will last many years.
2. You must have the ability to understand written directions.
3. You must have some common sense.
4. You must have the money to buy the barrel and the kit.
5. You need a quiet place to work with a vice and some good light.
6. You need about 10 to 15 hours of spare time for the first one.
7. You need a friend like me who will ream the chamber for you when you complete your installation.
Piece of CAKE!
Kart barrel
Sounds like I could maybe learn to do it myself. Hopefully not like once in my teens when I had to take a gadzillion parts of a Holly carburetor (and my pride) in a sack to a professional. I do have the items Dave listed in stock. That is, the time, patience, reading skills type stuff. I havent' found Kart's website, but I do have a Brownell's catalog.
Tell me what the reaming is all about after the installation. I know about chamber reamers, but that will be done, so I'm lost on this one.
Too much fun. Much more fun to do it, especially when it actually shoots better. This gun is stainless, and I read Kart just makes carbon steel barrels. Any problem here?
Sounds like I could maybe learn to do it myself. Hopefully not like once in my teens when I had to take a gadzillion parts of a Holly carburetor (and my pride) in a sack to a professional. I do have the items Dave listed in stock. That is, the time, patience, reading skills type stuff. I havent' found Kart's website, but I do have a Brownell's catalog.
Tell me what the reaming is all about after the installation. I know about chamber reamers, but that will be done, so I'm lost on this one.
Too much fun. Much more fun to do it, especially when it actually shoots better. This gun is stainless, and I read Kart just makes carbon steel barrels. Any problem here?
Dave Sample
Moderator
As an Online 1911 Instructor (One of two in the world) I have noticed that folks sometimes cannot "Get it" when I address an Issue.
Kart does not build SS barrels because he is too smart to do that. His barrels will install in any decent 1911.
Fred does not agree with me on the chamber issue. He does not do any "Leade" from the cartridge rim to the rifling. His barrels will shoot any high end ammo with no problem, but things happen with re loads and poor quality junk ammo that we don't care for. I ream the chambers on every barrel I install from any maker so that I know they will feed anything. The reamer is a Clymer Finish Reamer and it gives mke a "Fudge factor" that I require for 100% reliablity in tthe 1911's that my students build over the Internet and then send to me for the final check up. The only other barrels I have used lately are Ed Browns and I ream his, also.
I do not like SS 1911's for personal reasons, but there is no problem putting a better carbon steel barrel in them. You did not mention the maker of your pistol so I don't know if you have anything that is worth the time and effort required here.
"What's cheap, is expensive"
Kart does not build SS barrels because he is too smart to do that. His barrels will install in any decent 1911.
Fred does not agree with me on the chamber issue. He does not do any "Leade" from the cartridge rim to the rifling. His barrels will shoot any high end ammo with no problem, but things happen with re loads and poor quality junk ammo that we don't care for. I ream the chambers on every barrel I install from any maker so that I know they will feed anything. The reamer is a Clymer Finish Reamer and it gives mke a "Fudge factor" that I require for 100% reliablity in tthe 1911's that my students build over the Internet and then send to me for the final check up. The only other barrels I have used lately are Ed Browns and I ream his, also.
I do not like SS 1911's for personal reasons, but there is no problem putting a better carbon steel barrel in them. You did not mention the maker of your pistol so I don't know if you have anything that is worth the time and effort required here.
"What's cheap, is expensive"
Thanks Dave
The maker is Armscor, in the Philipines. They have their reps in Nevada and a presence on the competitive pistol circut. Of course too good to be true is just that.
Nevertheless, it looks good, feels good, is very comfortable to use and shoot, with ambidextrious extended safety, beavertail grip safety with pad, skeletonized hammer, beveled mag well, 2 Novak 8 round mags, and my personal favorite the extended slide release. I can detect no motion between the barrel, bushing, or slide, in battery, and with the slide slightly back I can detect no fore and aft motion of the barrel. That's all I know about judging the setup of a 1911. Oh yea, it doesn't malfunction with ball or Gold Dot +P 200s, the only loads I've tried.
It has no trigger stop, so I made a simple one to see if it improved my shooting. It did. Still, grouping near 3" at 25 does not give me joy.
Just so you don't think I make my choices just on the cheap, I do have a number of expensive models too. If I could make this one shoot better, I would take a lot of pride in it, more than the Gold Cups that just came that way (minus the extended and beveled stuff).
Thanks for the info. Still havent found Kart's website to learn more about the semi-drop ins and other stuff.
The maker is Armscor, in the Philipines. They have their reps in Nevada and a presence on the competitive pistol circut. Of course too good to be true is just that.
Nevertheless, it looks good, feels good, is very comfortable to use and shoot, with ambidextrious extended safety, beavertail grip safety with pad, skeletonized hammer, beveled mag well, 2 Novak 8 round mags, and my personal favorite the extended slide release. I can detect no motion between the barrel, bushing, or slide, in battery, and with the slide slightly back I can detect no fore and aft motion of the barrel. That's all I know about judging the setup of a 1911. Oh yea, it doesn't malfunction with ball or Gold Dot +P 200s, the only loads I've tried.
It has no trigger stop, so I made a simple one to see if it improved my shooting. It did. Still, grouping near 3" at 25 does not give me joy.
Just so you don't think I make my choices just on the cheap, I do have a number of expensive models too. If I could make this one shoot better, I would take a lot of pride in it, more than the Gold Cups that just came that way (minus the extended and beveled stuff).
Thanks for the info. Still havent found Kart's website to learn more about the semi-drop ins and other stuff.
Dave Sample
Moderator
Kart does not have a web site. His phone number is 1-910-754-5212. Tell him I sent you.
Sounds like you have a decent 1911 there. Good Luck! I have three web sites and if you need to call me, use my favorite one:
www.captaineagle.us
Sounds like you have a decent 1911 there. Good Luck! I have three web sites and if you need to call me, use my favorite one:
www.captaineagle.us
Dave is right on both the Clymer throating reamer and the use of 41XX series carbon steel in barrels. If you are going to shoot softball or even hard cast bullets, the standard throat will have you cleaning lead. The Clymer throater mitigates the problem considerably and accuracy with either type of non-jacketed bullet reflects that.
As to the barrel steel, I have no hard analytical data on the matter, but have found the SS barrels a bit harder to fit to equal accuracy, and definitely harder to keep accurate over the course. The former may be just because stainless machining qualities are not as good as carbon steel, and so it takes a lot more care to get equal fit. The latter has no clear cause, though I have the impression that fouling doesn't interact with the surface in the same way. The SS seems to get dirty looking more easily during firing and whether one might infer that more fouling interference with the fit develops or not, I can't really say. I would like to, but then I have seen plenty of caked-on fouling on carbon steel that actually served to tighten the guns up a bit, so I can't make a logical connection to this as a fault. It's just an impression.
The carbon steel also seems more forgiving of errors, somehow. My old Colt Goldcup barrel that I fit back in the early 80's by the old-fashioned weld-up method, is out of round half a thousandth at the muzzle. Despite that I have three witnessed and signed bragging targets from past tests of it. All were fired at 25 yards off a Hoppe's pistol rest using an Aimpoint sight with the old grip frame mount. All are 5 shot ragged holes under 3/8" C.T.C.
If you care to compare, the accuracy load for those tests was 4.2 grains of Bullseye lit by Federal primers in WW cases pushing the 200 grain Hornady jacketed SWC.
Nick
As to the barrel steel, I have no hard analytical data on the matter, but have found the SS barrels a bit harder to fit to equal accuracy, and definitely harder to keep accurate over the course. The former may be just because stainless machining qualities are not as good as carbon steel, and so it takes a lot more care to get equal fit. The latter has no clear cause, though I have the impression that fouling doesn't interact with the surface in the same way. The SS seems to get dirty looking more easily during firing and whether one might infer that more fouling interference with the fit develops or not, I can't really say. I would like to, but then I have seen plenty of caked-on fouling on carbon steel that actually served to tighten the guns up a bit, so I can't make a logical connection to this as a fault. It's just an impression.
The carbon steel also seems more forgiving of errors, somehow. My old Colt Goldcup barrel that I fit back in the early 80's by the old-fashioned weld-up method, is out of round half a thousandth at the muzzle. Despite that I have three witnessed and signed bragging targets from past tests of it. All were fired at 25 yards off a Hoppe's pistol rest using an Aimpoint sight with the old grip frame mount. All are 5 shot ragged holes under 3/8" C.T.C.
If you care to compare, the accuracy load for those tests was 4.2 grains of Bullseye lit by Federal primers in WW cases pushing the 200 grain Hornady jacketed SWC.
Nick
Just a thought, before you spend the big bucks:
One of the most immediate accuracy improvements that can be made on 1911 pistols is by going to a fitted bushing.
Is your current bushing without play, or might it be worthwhile to spend a few dollars to buy and fit this inexpensive part?
One of the most immediate accuracy improvements that can be made on 1911 pistols is by going to a fitted bushing.
Is your current bushing without play, or might it be worthwhile to spend a few dollars to buy and fit this inexpensive part?
Dave Sample
Moderator
A point well taken as I have said many tiimes here and there that a factory barrel can be really improved by fitting a NM bushing , a new .278 link and a new link pin. The latter two things may seem redunant but I am a belt and suspenders type guy and prefer to do the best job that I can.
Bushings are NOT easy to fit by the "home do it yourself guy", contrary to the Internet belief that all you have to do is read some stuff on a forum or two and you are automatically qualified to do work on your pistol. There are several areas inside and out that need to be addressed as the barrel moves back and forth and tips, also, so you have to relieve it right to avoid what we call "Springing" while coming back out of battery.
This is one of the blessings of Fred's EZ fit is that he fits the ID dimension for you and all you have to do is fit the OD to get it tight in the slide.
I had a nice talk with Fred yesterday ,and like me, he thinks stainless steel is good for hubcaps and fishing gear. He hates S/S 1911's as much as I do because we consider it an inferior metal for certain kinds of guns. I love it in my Model 66-2 S&W which just came home last week.
As Handy mentioned, you might want to try the inexpensive fix first.
Bushings are NOT easy to fit by the "home do it yourself guy", contrary to the Internet belief that all you have to do is read some stuff on a forum or two and you are automatically qualified to do work on your pistol. There are several areas inside and out that need to be addressed as the barrel moves back and forth and tips, also, so you have to relieve it right to avoid what we call "Springing" while coming back out of battery.
This is one of the blessings of Fred's EZ fit is that he fits the ID dimension for you and all you have to do is fit the OD to get it tight in the slide.
I had a nice talk with Fred yesterday ,and like me, he thinks stainless steel is good for hubcaps and fishing gear. He hates S/S 1911's as much as I do because we consider it an inferior metal for certain kinds of guns. I love it in my Model 66-2 S&W which just came home last week.
As Handy mentioned, you might want to try the inexpensive fix first.
Ok guys, hijacker coming through 
please forgive
Dave, can't help but hang on every word about a SS barrel. UncleNick had some good info on it as well. If yall would chck out my post Randall 9mm Barrel I'd appreciate the input. On that note the pistol certainly won't be built for accuracy or competition, but will it work for reliability and a general shooter? Will I be disappointed? I'm figuring a novice such as myself won't be taken by the performance differences in barrel materials, will I? If this thing will break apart before my very eyes, I certainly don't want it.
please forgiveDave, can't help but hang on every word about a SS barrel. UncleNick had some good info on it as well. If yall would chck out my post Randall 9mm Barrel I'd appreciate the input. On that note the pistol certainly won't be built for accuracy or competition, but will it work for reliability and a general shooter? Will I be disappointed? I'm figuring a novice such as myself won't be taken by the performance differences in barrel materials, will I? If this thing will break apart before my very eyes, I certainly don't want it.
barrel bushing fit
To answer, I'm not able to detect any movement at all in the barrel, bushing, slide mating. That's just trying to move the barrel with my finger while holding the slide firmly. Then I open the action maybe 1/10 inch and cannot move the barrel for and aft any that I can see.
Does that mean I have a good fit? I'm only guessing here, but I do what I can with these limited brain cells.
With the fit as described, could I still benefit from a different bushing? Next question is about causes of poor accuracy IF the gun is tight. Does that mean the barrel interior is poorly made, size wise?
Thanks for the interest, and the education.
To answer, I'm not able to detect any movement at all in the barrel, bushing, slide mating. That's just trying to move the barrel with my finger while holding the slide firmly. Then I open the action maybe 1/10 inch and cannot move the barrel for and aft any that I can see.
Does that mean I have a good fit? I'm only guessing here, but I do what I can with these limited brain cells.
With the fit as described, could I still benefit from a different bushing? Next question is about causes of poor accuracy IF the gun is tight. Does that mean the barrel interior is poorly made, size wise?
Thanks for the interest, and the education.
Dave Sample
Moderator
Oky doky, artichoky. I doubt very much if you have a Colt quality barrel in your gun. If everything is failrly tight like you describe, then a Kart barrel would make a large improvment out to 100 yards if you do the job right.
Shorts: I am an old dude with terrible opinions that I really have formed from my experience with carrying and working with various pistols since I was an Aviation Ordnanceman (AO3) in the Korean thing. All of my fellow pistolsmiths think I am nuts about my dislike for Stainless Steel in a 1911 semi-automatic pistol. They do agree that it's very hard on tooling and it is like working with oak as opposed to pine if it were wood. One front strap in S/S? One checkering file done for. They do not mind the stuff, but I am too oold and too hard headed to change my mind. I have wholesaled a few S/S 1911's to get rid of them and I have had better luck with blue steel and electroless nickle.
It is not a good metal for barrels because of the alloy that it is made out of. Maybe I am wrong and if I am, that is OK with me. I am working on a mess I made with it right now and I will put up a few pics later.
Shorts: I am an old dude with terrible opinions that I really have formed from my experience with carrying and working with various pistols since I was an Aviation Ordnanceman (AO3) in the Korean thing. All of my fellow pistolsmiths think I am nuts about my dislike for Stainless Steel in a 1911 semi-automatic pistol. They do agree that it's very hard on tooling and it is like working with oak as opposed to pine if it were wood. One front strap in S/S? One checkering file done for. They do not mind the stuff, but I am too oold and too hard headed to change my mind. I have wholesaled a few S/S 1911's to get rid of them and I have had better luck with blue steel and electroless nickle.
It is not a good metal for barrels because of the alloy that it is made out of. Maybe I am wrong and if I am, that is OK with me. I am working on a mess I made with it right now and I will put up a few pics later.
cptmclark, when you checked the fit, did you do it while the gun was fully assembled or did you disassembled down to just the slide and bushing? Seems it be better to have it apart as when assembled, you have pressure from he recoil spring and plug pushing on the bushing. )But I'm not sure on that)
My little book here (Kuhnhausen) suggests .001" slide-to-bushing clearance for service duty as well as .001" for bushing-to-barrel.
A variation of .001" at the muzzle equals 1" @ 100yds or 1/2" at 50yds. So if you go by the above clearance, you should have 1/2" @ 25yds.
Wihch is exactly the reason I value your thoughts on this gun stuff
You've already done it, so you have experience. Like when I was dad's assistant in the yard and garage growing up, he did the stuff and when he told me how to something and what to watch for, I certainly listened. So, I learned quite a bit from him. Matter of fact, I miss having a Mr Miagi or Yoda - experienced folks are the closest I have now
My little book here (Kuhnhausen) suggests .001" slide-to-bushing clearance for service duty as well as .001" for bushing-to-barrel.
A variation of .001" at the muzzle equals 1" @ 100yds or 1/2" at 50yds. So if you go by the above clearance, you should have 1/2" @ 25yds.
Wihch is exactly the reason I value your thoughts on this gun stuff
You've already done it, so you have experience. Like when I was dad's assistant in the yard and garage growing up, he did the stuff and when he told me how to something and what to watch for, I certainly listened. So, I learned quite a bit from him. Matter of fact, I miss having a Mr Miagi or Yoda - experienced folks are the closest I have now Shorts
The contraption was fully assembled when I did the aforementioned test. I was expecting a sloppy fit, since it doesn't shoot very well. Match grade I wasn't looking for at 300 bucks, but something to fiddle with. I liked it much more than I expected, and learned that all the "tricked out" improvements are really functional. So I don't claim it's tight, I'm just saying what I did and what I found. I really want to learn what is wrong with a barrel if it fits and still is inaccurate. Probably internal dimention quality control? I did just notice that the hard chrome lining is not very even. Maybe that's it. Still, with all the encouragement I'm getting for changing to a known barrel, I'm going that route. I will enjoy the project, and it sounds user friendly.
The contraption was fully assembled when I did the aforementioned test. I was expecting a sloppy fit, since it doesn't shoot very well. Match grade I wasn't looking for at 300 bucks, but something to fiddle with. I liked it much more than I expected, and learned that all the "tricked out" improvements are really functional. So I don't claim it's tight, I'm just saying what I did and what I found. I really want to learn what is wrong with a barrel if it fits and still is inaccurate. Probably internal dimention quality control? I did just notice that the hard chrome lining is not very even. Maybe that's it. Still, with all the encouragement I'm getting for changing to a known barrel, I'm going that route. I will enjoy the project, and it sounds user friendly.
Go ahead and take it down, then take a set of feeler gauges to it. This thread got me motivated so I ran up and got my gauges and pistol. I have it disassembled and I just checked the bushing to slide fit. I was disappointed in the results. Like yours, when fully assembled there is no play in the bushing or slide. But while apart, I can get the .0025" feeler guage in between the slide and bushing. Now, not sure exactly how this is suppose to be measured as I cannot assemble the bushing to slide and figure out how to get the feeler guage in there to get a good measurement. So, I left the bushing out a bit so the guage had room. I might be really off. Maybe I need to cut a narrow strip of feeler guage so it can slide in from the rear of the slide where the dust cover sits.
As for the bushing to barrel, that was a bit better at .0015".
Again, I'm not sure I'm measuring things with the correct technique, but I guess my lesson out of all this is to not take the little details for granted. Seems to me the fine details are what make the overall project complete. Just like working on my truck, I can put in the best ring and pinion into the rearend. But if I didn't dial them in to a T, I'll burn them up and spit them out the rear cover in a matter of minutes ...as if I've ever destroyed a rear end....
For giggles, measure everything now with your current stock setup and note the results. Then after the barrel replacement, measure everything again and note the results. Good luck with your gun. New parts are fun
As for the bushing to barrel, that was a bit better at .0015".
Again, I'm not sure I'm measuring things with the correct technique, but I guess my lesson out of all this is to not take the little details for granted. Seems to me the fine details are what make the overall project complete. Just like working on my truck, I can put in the best ring and pinion into the rearend. But if I didn't dial them in to a T, I'll burn them up and spit them out the rear cover in a matter of minutes
...as if I've ever destroyed a rear end.... For giggles, measure everything now with your current stock setup and note the results. Then after the barrel replacement, measure everything again and note the results. Good luck with your gun. New parts are fun
Dave Sample
Moderator
I have never been much of a feeler gauge guy except for revolver work and barrel hoods. I can't help you much there. I can feel a 1911 for about 5 minutes and I know everything right and wrong about it in that amount of time. Slide to frame is easy to determing. Push down on the barrel hood while it is locked up. Push the front of the barrel while in lock up. Look for signs of wear in the wrong places and in the right places.
Here is what I know for sure. You get what you pay for in life. Period. I wish there were more decent 1911's in a low price range but there is a law in production that says if you use the very best parts all the way through the job, it is expensive. If you use the cheapest stuff you can get, it is going to be a cheap gun when completed. There are folks who want to make a better sow's ear and I have done that. I build silk purses because I want something of value when I am done. It is hard work and take a lot of time to do it right. It takes the same amount of time to do it wrong. Or more! So dropping a barrel in a $300.00 gun may give the owner a lot of pleasure and improve it the way he wants to. I say, give it a try! It will be a neat learning experience and we are here to help if you need it. Go Get 'er Done!
Here is what I know for sure. You get what you pay for in life. Period. I wish there were more decent 1911's in a low price range but there is a law in production that says if you use the very best parts all the way through the job, it is expensive. If you use the cheapest stuff you can get, it is going to be a cheap gun when completed. There are folks who want to make a better sow's ear and I have done that. I build silk purses because I want something of value when I am done. It is hard work and take a lot of time to do it right. It takes the same amount of time to do it wrong. Or more! So dropping a barrel in a $300.00 gun may give the owner a lot of pleasure and improve it the way he wants to. I say, give it a try! It will be a neat learning experience and we are here to help if you need it. Go Get 'er Done!
Harry Bonar
New member
barrel fitting
Dear Shooter:
I, too , like Dave, use Karts. Bar-Stos' are supposed to be a little better on lead but I think that varies from barrel to barrel; Bar-Stos' seem to be slightly harder to fit.
After fitting, hood, upper lugs with range rod etc.', and cutting lower lugs I fit these using a "work bushing" (slightly loose)!
Then I'll select and fit a good oversize bushing to the slide so that you should have a bushing wrench to install and remove it (I know, this precludes the hand disassembly.) I then cut the I.D. so that the bbl just enters fully but no play, assemble the pistol and lap the bbl in so that when cleaned up there is no more than .005 clearance with bushing. It should lock up with no play and behind the bbl, bushing fit it should be relieved so it doesn't drag on rear of bushing.
Now, if you're getting 2"-3" at 25 yds, and the gun is a Rock Island Armory clone I'd leave it alone. That's not bad accuracy. Save the money for a Colt or Springfield Armory.
Harry B.
Dear Shooter:
I, too , like Dave, use Karts. Bar-Stos' are supposed to be a little better on lead but I think that varies from barrel to barrel; Bar-Stos' seem to be slightly harder to fit.
After fitting, hood, upper lugs with range rod etc.', and cutting lower lugs I fit these using a "work bushing" (slightly loose)!
Then I'll select and fit a good oversize bushing to the slide so that you should have a bushing wrench to install and remove it (I know, this precludes the hand disassembly.) I then cut the I.D. so that the bbl just enters fully but no play, assemble the pistol and lap the bbl in so that when cleaned up there is no more than .005 clearance with bushing. It should lock up with no play and behind the bbl, bushing fit it should be relieved so it doesn't drag on rear of bushing.
Now, if you're getting 2"-3" at 25 yds, and the gun is a Rock Island Armory clone I'd leave it alone. That's not bad accuracy. Save the money for a Colt or Springfield Armory.
Harry B.
Kart replacement barrel
Barrel and installation kit recieved. Installation performed as instructed, and it seemed to go more easily than expected. Lock up and spacing seems perfect. Off to the range. Gun will not go into battery completely when loading from magazine. Will operate otherwise normally if single loaded. Accuracy is disappointing, hardball groups 5 inches. My single 4 shot group with my duty load (200 GD+P) went into 2 inches.
I have a message into Fred Kart for Monday, and I'll no doubt be instructed in the shortcomings of my installation procedure, followed by correcting the problems. My first barrel fitting, and no doubt it ain't quite perfect yet. I'll give you guys an update. Oh yea. I'm having a ball learning how to do this, and Fred Kart seems like a first rate operation. I look forward to talking with him Monday.
In the meantime, the braver of you experts (or more knowledgable than I) can tell me your opinions of what my problems are with this installation, and we'll all get graded with my follow up.
Thanks again for the encouragement to learn more about gunsmithing.
Barrel and installation kit recieved. Installation performed as instructed, and it seemed to go more easily than expected. Lock up and spacing seems perfect. Off to the range. Gun will not go into battery completely when loading from magazine. Will operate otherwise normally if single loaded. Accuracy is disappointing, hardball groups 5 inches. My single 4 shot group with my duty load (200 GD+P) went into 2 inches.
I have a message into Fred Kart for Monday, and I'll no doubt be instructed in the shortcomings of my installation procedure, followed by correcting the problems. My first barrel fitting, and no doubt it ain't quite perfect yet. I'll give you guys an update. Oh yea. I'm having a ball learning how to do this, and Fred Kart seems like a first rate operation. I look forward to talking with him Monday.
In the meantime, the braver of you experts (or more knowledgable than I) can tell me your opinions of what my problems are with this installation, and we'll all get graded with my follow up.
Thanks again for the encouragement to learn more about gunsmithing.