Replace Kimber MIM Sear With... What?

J

Jorah Lavin

New member
On another thread, there developed an interesting sub-thread on Kimber's metal-injection-molding sear. I have a Kimber Ultra Carry and plan to keep it for the rest of my life, so I'd love to replace any MIM parts with something more rugged, or at least have replacements on hand. I'll do some research on what parts of the Kimber are MIM, and don't mean to start a flame-producing thread on MIM vs machined parts in general...

I'm specifically asking this time about replacing the sear. What brand would you advise?

I see that Chip mccormick has sears for sale for about $12... any thoughts on McCormick quality, and would that price seem average for such a part?

Is this really a drop-in part, or would I need a gunsmith to fit the part?

If you haven't guessed yet, I haven't replaced parts on any gun I own yet, so go easy on me if you've been rebuilding stuff for years.

Obviously, for 12 bucks, just getting the parts isn't a problem; I'm more worried about quality and difficulty of installation.

Finally, if you have particular strong feelings about other MIM parts in the Kimber that you feel need to be replaced, let me know that. If it matters, I average about 2000 rounds of moderate-power reloads a year through the gun, but that number keeps climbing.

Thanks in advance...

-Jorah
 
I'd take a look at the parts in the Brownll's catalog at:
www.brownells.com
They have all the available parts that are fit to have. I'd recommend a "drop in" sear that requires little or no fitting. However, for the best trigger pull, the sear should be fitted.

Wilson's "bullet-proof" parts are made of tool steel, and should last for the life of the gun.
 
Replacing the sear should be a drop in job, if you know how to detail disassemble a 1911 type pistol. If not, now may be the time to learn, and there are several good books quite cheap as well as a web site (I think it is M1911forum.com, but might be wrong). A search should get it if no one else gives it.

I would not worry about that sear unless or until it gives out. MIM parts have a reputation for not standing up in areas where there is heavy breaking type stress, as in a barrel bushing. But there is no such strain on a sear, and the MIM parts I have seen are more than adequately hard for the purpose.

I recommend you not pay that kind of money for a sear; I would just buy a GI one (you can still get them), but I don't think you need one. In other words, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Jim
 
Jorah:

I have two Kimbers, including the Kimber Compact that is currently on my hip. I've put thousands and thousands of rounds through them. Nothing has ever broken on them. I trust my life to them. I haven't replaced any parts because they are MIM. There's just no need.

M1911
 
I may be wrong but I think the hammer and sears in kimbers are chip mccormick. If I remember right chip mccormick and kimber got together to develop the 1st kimber .45's. Mark
 
I fail to see why you need to replace the MIM parts at all, they're as good as any other AFAIK, and my Kimber is still shooting fine with them.
 
These MIM parts discussions are driving me crazy. MIM parts are fine unless you're a competitive shooter who runs the gun hard and puts 5,000 rounds a month or more through it. For the average shooter MIM parts should last a lifetime.

BTW, sears are NOT drop-in parts. Even the sears that claim to be drop-in usually need to be fitted to get a good trigger pull. Properly installed sears need to be carefully mated with the hammer.
 
Thanks, Everyone... appreciate the feedback.

Thanks for taking the time to reply... as usual, between all the replies, you've helped me make up my mind what to do (or not to do.)
 
Hi, HowardK,

Except for target guns, sears SHOULD be drop in parts, and they were in millions of GI pistols. They often are not today because after only 90 years there are some companies that still can't figure out how to build a simple piece of machinery like a 1911 type pistol.

Jim
 
The CMC IS a MIM sear...might as well leave the other one alone 'til you're ready for a whole trigger group. They have a higher grade of parts available, but I think that CMC is changing their trigger parts availability...Someone already gave you the "best" heads up on those parts...Anything that's mated to another part should be replaced together...don't ya'll think? If one is worn, the other should be too...right?
...Anyway. Unless you really shoot a lot, I wouldn't bother just yet. If it starts havin' probs, then contact a good triggersmith and save yourself some headaches...cheaper and ...safer
bandit.gif
 
the great thing about the MIM parts in the kimber and cmc is that they are made in the same factory on CNC machinery...making them "true" drop in parts (especially on the kimber/cmc/wilson frames) as they maintain consistent centers
 
9mmephipany,

In theory you are right. But in practice it is different. When I "dropped in" a CMC sear into a Kimber it worked, but the trigger pull was heavy and had a lot of creep. That was not the case with the original Kimber sear. The only way to get a decent trigger without smithing the gun is to buy one of the drop-in kits (sear, hammer, and disconnector) from C&S, Nowlin, Dane Burns, or Teddy Jacobson. Besides, unless the hammer and sear are mated correctly, it's easy to end up with a dangerous gun.

Jim is right. It's a pity that after 90 years manufacturers still can't get it right. You'd think that if we can manufacture complex parts (with unforgiving tolerances) for space stations and orbital telescopes, we could manage to make low-tech 1911 parts likehammers and sears that are interchangeable.
 
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