Repainting a ak at home.

S

Sterling

New member
Is there a recipe or thread(s) in this forum for preping and spraypainting a AK ? Ive seen paint jobs on the web done with rustoleum appliance and/ or 500 deg header paint , but nothing with a walk thru instruction format. Any help apreciated. I would like to duracoat or parker but I dont have the tools needed so im sticking to budget freindly rattlecan.
 
I'd break it down as much as possible and clean all the metal with carb cleaner, and then paint it immediately

Rig wires to hang the parts so you can do all sides at once

If you want to paint the stock, sand it lightly and clean it with mineral spirits first
 
I would go with Aluma-hyde from Brownells. If you follow directions it will hold up a long time. Just remember that prep is the biggest part of the job and paint wont stick to oil or dirt. Brownells have a few videos that may help also.
 
DuraCoat is generally applied with an airbrush. You then have to bake it and therein lies the problem. You can't use the kitchen oven and you can't suspend it from a toaster oven (unless you drill a hole through the top).
 
Hmm interesting Gary, I haven't tried the Stuff yet but I've been wanting to. With that info I may not. I painted an old Marlin 22 one time with Duplicolor Ceramic rattle can paint, then baked it with a make shift oven. It looked great but the finish did not hold up well at all. It chipped and scratched very easily. And the amount of prep work I put in was plenty sufficient. Took it down to bare metal and degreased it with MEK before painting. The last rifle I had painted (SKS) I just dropped it off at a Dura Coat Vendor. That finish IS tough as nails.
 
You can't use the kitchen oven and you can't suspend it from a toaster oven (unless you drill a hole through the top)
Click to expand...

I saw some pictures where a guy used some 8" stove pipe on top of a hot plate to cure a rifle barrel and action
 
BTW, someone else told me that DuraCoat was a souped up house paint.

They key to any finishing is the preparation work. Mess up the bead blast and you can't expect a good finish. Second, some paints run more than others and must be popped into the pre-heated oven almost immediately. If not, you get runs. Wear a paint quality respirator when you spray.
 
I've done many a rattle-can job with Krylon Camo...

Don't knock it, if you haven't done it. More durable than you'd think with several coats of Matte Clear topcoat- and if you want to change it, or take it off completely, paint thinner and a rag...

You can do a very professional looking job with it with minimal talent :D

Here's a Mini I did a few years back, did my son's AK as well but can't locate the pic

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and a Mosin-Nagant (natch):

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Appliance Epoxy

Just pulled the Saiga out the oven. In a nutshell this my version of a popular web recipe 1. Remove old paint / degrease. 2. Clean wash surface / dry 3. Preheat gun 1/2 hour at 200 deg before painting eliminates hidden water / oil pockets. Let cool to touch. 4, preheat spray paint can I leave it in the sink 20 min with hot water. 5. Paint gun with Rustoleum Appliance paint let cure a hour. 6.Place in oven at 400 deg an hour leave it inside till it cools. And thats how it went down I got great results.
 
A friend of mine painted an old Chinese Makarov with Rust-Oleum BBQ Grill paint, and it turned out pretty good and wearable. Its my guess it is the same as high heat motor paint, and it has held up now for two years. He doesn't shoot it a lot, but it did seem to work well. He stripped it down, and cleaned the metal with acetone, then painted it. He did it here, where he left it to cure for three days before he put it back together.
 
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