Removing the rebound slide, what else to take out first?
- Thread starter mattz357
- Start date
A gunsmith.
If you're using a screwdriver (
horrors!) you are using the wrong tool. Sure, it can be done, but you risk gouging a great gash in the frame, the rebound slide, your thumb or finger or the trigger guard.
That spring in there is about 50% longer than the rebound slide. Improper removal can cause that spring to take about 3 laps around the room at eyeball height.
I suggest you read Kuhnhausen's book on S&W revolvers before you attempt disassembly this far.
If you're using a screwdriver (
horrors!) you are using the wrong tool. Sure, it can be done, but you risk gouging a great gash in the frame, the rebound slide, your thumb or finger or the trigger guard. That spring in there is about 50% longer than the rebound slide. Improper removal can cause that spring to take about 3 laps around the room at eyeball height.
I suggest you read Kuhnhausen's book on S&W revolvers before you attempt disassembly this far.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Every rebound slide I've taken out, I've used a screwdriver, and I figure I've removed close to 1,000 at this point.
Use a large Phillips head screwdriver, and a shoptowel over it. If you get it down to a science, as the rebound slide and spring clear the post, you'll catch the spring on the Phillips head and will have all the control over it you could ever want.
I can remove the slide in less than a second, and have never had one go flying on me.
Even if you use the "correct" tool, you still run the risk of either losing control of the spring or gouging the frame, as Kuhnhausen points out on page 44 (1990 printing).
And, even funnier, the photo on page 15 shows removal of the rebound slide with a *gasp* flat head screwdriver.
Use a large Phillips head screwdriver, and a shoptowel over it. If you get it down to a science, as the rebound slide and spring clear the post, you'll catch the spring on the Phillips head and will have all the control over it you could ever want.
I can remove the slide in less than a second, and have never had one go flying on me.
Even if you use the "correct" tool, you still run the risk of either losing control of the spring or gouging the frame, as Kuhnhausen points out on page 44 (1990 printing).
And, even funnier, the photo on page 15 shows removal of the rebound slide with a *gasp* flat head screwdriver.
Eons ago, one of S&W's gunsmiths created a great little tool for removing the rebound slide. It's an aluminum tool that adjusts inside the trigger guard and matches the guard perfectly. From there has a piece that clamps onto the rebound slide and you use a screwdriver to put pressure on the slide to free it, then a lever allows you to tip it up so you can gradually release the pressure of the spring. I swear I saw that used in one of Kuhnhausen's books.
I've also used (*gasp*) a screwdriver but the tool makes it so much easier. I'd send a photo but it was one of the things taken with several of my S&W's last year in a burglary.
I've seen several guns badly damaged because "the screwdriver slipped".
I've also used (*gasp*) a screwdriver but the tool makes it so much easier. I'd send a photo but it was one of the things taken with several of my S&W's last year in a burglary.
I've seen several guns badly damaged because "the screwdriver slipped".
Agreed--get the Kuhnhausen book. That being said, here's how to disassemble that SW revolver.
1. CLEAR THE WEAPON. Is it clear? Good. Now, check it again.
2. Turn the revolver on its left side; cylinder latch should be down.
3. With a PROPERLY FITTED SCREWDRIVER, remove the screw closest to the front of the revolver.
4. Turn it over. Press the cylinder latch, swing the cylinder open. While holding the cylinder steady, pull the crane assembly forward and out of the frame. Lay the cylinder and crane to the side.
5. Remove the grips.
6. Turn the revolver back over on its left side. Now, remove the rest of the screws. Keep track of which hole they go into--there IS a difference.
7. Now, using a plastic mallet or a hammer handle, hold the revolver by the barrel. Tap smartly on the grip, right across the center. The sideplate will gradually come up and out.
8. Set the side plate to the side. Remove the hammer block (the funny L-shaped piece of metal.
9. Loosen and remove the strain screw.
10. Remove the mainspring, gently disengaging it from the hammer stirrup.
11. Press the hammer, trigger and rebound slide INTO the frame with a thumb to ensure proper alignment for the next step.
12. Pull trigger to the rear, while holding the cylinder latch back. The hammer will rotate backward.
13. While holding the trigger to the rear, pull the hammer straight out of the frame.
14. Now, get a good sturdy shop rag. Double it up.
15. Get a flat bladed screwdriver (or a spring removal tool, available from Brownell's--or make your own by filing the sides of a small screwdriver, leaving a small tip about 1/8 inch long in the center. Heat the blade in a neutral flame until just beginning to show color, then quench in a two step process--one quick dunk, and then plunge it into cool water after about a five second pause. This will properly harden the blade.) Insert the end of the tool in the opening in the end of the rebound slide.
16. Place the cloth over your hands and the pistol, and place your thumb (through the cloth, thank you) over the opening in the rebound slide.
17. Slowly pry upward. You'll feel the spring come out, and smack your thumb. If you have padded your thumb, you'll feel a thump. If not, you'll have an owie. Remove the rebound slide and spring. Be careful not to dump out the guide rod INSIDE the rebound slide.
18. Pull the trigger to the rear to clear the cylinder stop, and lift it out.
Reassemble in reverse order. Ensure that you do a function check after the revolver is reassembled. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, have someone else show you how to do it. It's a lot simpler than it sounds.
1. CLEAR THE WEAPON. Is it clear? Good. Now, check it again.
2. Turn the revolver on its left side; cylinder latch should be down.
3. With a PROPERLY FITTED SCREWDRIVER, remove the screw closest to the front of the revolver.
4. Turn it over. Press the cylinder latch, swing the cylinder open. While holding the cylinder steady, pull the crane assembly forward and out of the frame. Lay the cylinder and crane to the side.
5. Remove the grips.
6. Turn the revolver back over on its left side. Now, remove the rest of the screws. Keep track of which hole they go into--there IS a difference.
7. Now, using a plastic mallet or a hammer handle, hold the revolver by the barrel. Tap smartly on the grip, right across the center. The sideplate will gradually come up and out.
8. Set the side plate to the side. Remove the hammer block (the funny L-shaped piece of metal.
9. Loosen and remove the strain screw.
10. Remove the mainspring, gently disengaging it from the hammer stirrup.
11. Press the hammer, trigger and rebound slide INTO the frame with a thumb to ensure proper alignment for the next step.
12. Pull trigger to the rear, while holding the cylinder latch back. The hammer will rotate backward.
13. While holding the trigger to the rear, pull the hammer straight out of the frame.
14. Now, get a good sturdy shop rag. Double it up.
15. Get a flat bladed screwdriver (or a spring removal tool, available from Brownell's--or make your own by filing the sides of a small screwdriver, leaving a small tip about 1/8 inch long in the center. Heat the blade in a neutral flame until just beginning to show color, then quench in a two step process--one quick dunk, and then plunge it into cool water after about a five second pause. This will properly harden the blade.) Insert the end of the tool in the opening in the end of the rebound slide.
16. Place the cloth over your hands and the pistol, and place your thumb (through the cloth, thank you) over the opening in the rebound slide.
17. Slowly pry upward. You'll feel the spring come out, and smack your thumb. If you have padded your thumb, you'll feel a thump. If not, you'll have an owie. Remove the rebound slide and spring. Be careful not to dump out the guide rod INSIDE the rebound slide.
18. Pull the trigger to the rear to clear the cylinder stop, and lift it out.
Reassemble in reverse order. Ensure that you do a function check after the revolver is reassembled. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, have someone else show you how to do it. It's a lot simpler than it sounds.
Mike Irwin
Staff
"Now, using a plastic mallet or a hammer handle, hold the revolver by the barrel. Tap smartly on the grip, right across the center. The sideplate will gradually come up and out."
NO.
That's a great way to have the side plate fly off and drop on the floor. On carpet not a big deal. On your concrete shop floor? BIG deal.
Cradle the gun in your hand so that your thumb is over the sideplate and can control its movement.
Doing so will also keep the sharp edges on sideplate from possibly scarring the finish on the frame.
NO.
That's a great way to have the side plate fly off and drop on the floor. On carpet not a big deal. On your concrete shop floor? BIG deal.
Cradle the gun in your hand so that your thumb is over the sideplate and can control its movement.
Doing so will also keep the sharp edges on sideplate from possibly scarring the finish on the frame.
Mike Irwin
Staff
"Eons ago, one of S&W's gunsmiths created a great little tool for removing the rebound slide. It's an aluminum tool that adjusts inside the trigger guard and matches the guard perfectly. From there has a piece that clamps onto the rebound slide and you use a screwdriver to put pressure on the slide to free it, then a lever allows you to tip it up so you can gradually release the pressure of the spring."
Holy creeping christ, that sounds more like a Federal bureaucrat turned loose to "solve" a problem that doesn't exist.
"Civil Servant Schlubbenlapper, it's come to our attention that you can remove the rebound slide and spring from a Smith & Wesson revolver using only a screwdriver and a thumb. This is, of course, completely unacceptable from a bureaucratic misamia standpoint. Here's $12 million in tax payer money. Go spent it doing a study on the feasibility of conducting another study that will determine the mechanical parameters under which such a device will be required to operate. Of course it will need to be hardened against chemical, nuclear, and biological warfare agents, and it will also need to be made of rare earth metals, NOT wimpy aluminum."
CS Schlubbenlapper replies, in a squeeky, meek, nasal voice, "Yes chief, I'll get right on it" and begins to shuffle.
"And for God's sake Civil Servant Schlubbenlapper, write your report in standard Tibetan Yak Bureaucratese!"
Holy creeping christ, that sounds more like a Federal bureaucrat turned loose to "solve" a problem that doesn't exist.
"Civil Servant Schlubbenlapper, it's come to our attention that you can remove the rebound slide and spring from a Smith & Wesson revolver using only a screwdriver and a thumb. This is, of course, completely unacceptable from a bureaucratic misamia standpoint. Here's $12 million in tax payer money. Go spent it doing a study on the feasibility of conducting another study that will determine the mechanical parameters under which such a device will be required to operate. Of course it will need to be hardened against chemical, nuclear, and biological warfare agents, and it will also need to be made of rare earth metals, NOT wimpy aluminum."
CS Schlubbenlapper replies, in a squeeky, meek, nasal voice, "Yes chief, I'll get right on it" and begins to shuffle.
"And for God's sake Civil Servant Schlubbenlapper, write your report in standard Tibetan Yak Bureaucratese!"
Mike Irwin
Staff
"The ingenious little tool for working with the rebond slide spring can also be made from a cheap screwdriver. Just get one the correct size and cut the slot for the pin in the blade and bend the shaft."
I use an even more ingenious tool, invented by some pesky Canadian, last name of Phillips, and which requires no alterations, bending, etc.
I use an even more ingenious tool, invented by some pesky Canadian, last name of Phillips, and which requires no alterations, bending, etc.
I have already disassembled this and other revolvers to this point before, just never gotten this far. I used a flat screwdriver to lift it up, and let the spring release into my thumb/towel I was holding. Switched out the spring and used a #1 phillips (which fit PERFECTLY by the way) to put it all back in.
Mike, when I do the "tappy, tappy" to get the sideplate off, I always have it fall into my hand, which I cup around the gun as I tap. I put in a Wilson 14# trigger return spring and a reduced power mainspring, but didn't notice all that much difference even after a couple hundred "rounds" of dry firing, what is the stock weight for the trigger return spring? Should I try the 12# or 13#, or will they reduce reliability? I would try them all, but I don't want to mess around with it too much, each time I have to take the screws in or out could be the time I slip.
Mike, when I do the "tappy, tappy" to get the sideplate off, I always have it fall into my hand, which I cup around the gun as I tap. I put in a Wilson 14# trigger return spring and a reduced power mainspring, but didn't notice all that much difference even after a couple hundred "rounds" of dry firing, what is the stock weight for the trigger return spring? Should I try the 12# or 13#, or will they reduce reliability? I would try them all, but I don't want to mess around with it too much, each time I have to take the screws in or out could be the time I slip.
I'll admit that it sounds like that, however the tool was actually quite simple in both construction & operation. It may be that it was one of those tools built & sold to gunsmiths as "indispensible" and less likely to damage a customer's gun. The tool had the S&W logo on it and was stamped with the date of 1954 along with the name "Davis" and was in it's own little gold cardboard box with the S&W logo on the top & ends and instructions for use. I found it at a garage sale to which an ex-girlfriend dragged me, heaped on a table with dozens of old, odd machine tools.
Now that it's gone, I looked at the Brownell's catalog and see their fancy $20 rebound slide tool that looks like a scrapped screwdriver. I guess I'll have to learn to use a Phillips screwdriver now.
Mike Irwin
Staff
"Mike, when I do the "tappy, tappy" to get the sideplate off, I always have it fall into my hand, which I cup around the gun as I tap."
That certainly works. The important thing is to control the sideplate so that it doesn't get away from you.
The stock rebound slide spring is, IIRC between 18-20 pounds.
You MAY experience trigger reset problems with the 12, 13, 14, or 15 pound springs, but you won't know until you try them.
If you do, often a very thorough internals polishing will eliminate that.
"The tool had the S&W logo on it and was stamped with the date of 1954 along with the name "Davis""
It sounds almost as if you're describing one of the tools that was developed for working not with the standard rebound slide springs, but with the big D-shaped uni-springs that were devoped back around that time. One end of the spring served as the main spring, while the other end (it was a big loop that wrapped around the inside of the grip, and made the strain screw unnecessary) while the other end bore against the rebound slide.
That certainly works. The important thing is to control the sideplate so that it doesn't get away from you.
The stock rebound slide spring is, IIRC between 18-20 pounds.
You MAY experience trigger reset problems with the 12, 13, 14, or 15 pound springs, but you won't know until you try them.
If you do, often a very thorough internals polishing will eliminate that.
"The tool had the S&W logo on it and was stamped with the date of 1954 along with the name "Davis""
It sounds almost as if you're describing one of the tools that was developed for working not with the standard rebound slide springs, but with the big D-shaped uni-springs that were devoped back around that time. One end of the spring served as the main spring, while the other end (it was a big loop that wrapped around the inside of the grip, and made the strain screw unnecessary) while the other end bore against the rebound slide.