Removing the Polyurethane finish on my Rem 870 stock.

R

raggiejack

New member
George and others,

I would like to refinish the stock and fore-end on my old Rem Wingmaster.

How do I remove the exsiting polyurethane finish?

Having tried various commercial paint removers, with zero effect on the finish at all, the only solution I have left is to sand the stock down, but I am afraid of damaging the checkering on the fore-end in the process.

Regards
Jacques
 
That's pretty astonishing that paint removers don't dent the stuff. I removed the finish on my 11/87 which I believe was a poly finish, and I used standard paint remover.
 
First degrease the finish with alcohol, then apply an old-fashioned stripper with Methylene Chloride (not the newer "environmentally-friendly" types.)

Should do the trick...along with a soft toothbrush delicately to remove the finish from between the checkering
 
The only stuff I ever found that will remove that God-awfully hard Remington and Browning hi-gloss finish is a product called Certistrip. I got it from Brownells back then it was about $28.00 a quart if I remember correctly. Stuff smelled truly evil but it worked very well. I could actually hear the finish coming off and for someone as deaf as me (and most of us on this list) that's pretty loud. It sounded like a bowl of rice krispies.
 
Rottweiler,
I did a search of the Brownells catalog, found the Certistrip product, but Brownells will not ship airmail. (I stay in South Africa)

Romulus,
I cleaned the stock with some acetone, will try to find old paint stripper as you suggest.

Thank you,
Jacques
 
Home Depot carries KS-3 Premium Stripper. This toxic slop works very well on Remingtons and Brownings. Use a plastic spatula and a toothbrush to clean it out of the checkering. I've used it on three Remingtons and too many Brownings. Usually takes three applications and won't strip out the stain.
 
After you've removed the polyurethane, you may need to re-color the stock. I'd like to strongly suggest dyes, not stains. Stains cover up the grain because they lay on the surface of the wood: especially the closed-grain woods. Dyes, on the othe hand, will penetrate the tightest grain woods and make them really show off, especially after the top coats are being applied.

You can find dyes almost anywhere. They can be water based but usually alcohol based and come in a rainbow of colors.

Good luck!

Rome
 
I haven't found a finish yet that MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) wouldn't eat including - varnishes, polyurethane, epoxies, oil based paints, plastics, etc. Wear rubber gloves and use it outside cuz it stinks pretty bad. Soak the stock for 5 or 10 minutes, then wipe off the old finish with a clean rag. Use an old toothbrush to clean out the checking (though after awhile the MEK might start to eat the toothbrush.... and the gloves). It's non flamable and doesn't hurt wood, bluing, parkerizing, or metals. --- Kernel
 
I don't blame Brownells on the certisrip. That stuff is what brings airplanes down in the everglades! Pilots singing all the way!
 
I've had good luck with the following:

Make a 50/50 mix of shellac thinner and lacquer thinner. Using 000 steel wool as a sponge, wash the wood with the mixture. If you can stand the stock in a pan while doing this, it keeps the spillage down.

After it dries, finish with the stock finish of your choice - I've used tung oil with good results. Follow the tung oil directions on the bottle.

I started doing this years ago with old furniture but have done a couple of gun stocks with good results. It usually leaves the old stain in the wood (as opposed to sanding) and when done, looks "not-brand-new" but nice.

Wear rubber gloves, don't smoke, do this outside, etc. It's nasty stuff.

Owen
 
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