Removing oils stains in stocks

J

jgabriel

Inactive
Hello all,
I am am new to this forum, and I have appreciated the past Q and A comments about using whiting to remove oils from older, darkened gun stocks. I'd like to give it a try, but have an additional concern - I do not wish to risk damage to old original varnish finish on 1873 winchester butt stock or forend wood. The percent original finish present, even if only 50%, usually bears on value of these and other antique guns.

Most people I've read on this forum seem to be working from the intention of refinishing the stock. I have darkened wood, both in and around areas of original finish, and yet no intention to re-varnish. I fear that many solvents (like acetone?) could injure existing 130 year old varnish:eek: . Anyone have direct experience or thoughts on using whiting on antique finishes? many thanks.
 
Whiting will work, but it can be pretty harsh and take several attempts to clean the oil from the stock. Two things we used to use to clean old wood when I worked in a gunsmithing shop:
* Murphy's Oil Soap- This will pretty much remove only dirt and grime from the surface, but may make the stock look better.
* Scott's Liquid Gold- Cleans the wood, removes old wax and crud, and lightens old boiled linseed oil finishes. Each time you use it, it will lift more crud from the finish. Will not harm the finish.

For either one, use an old sponge or old rag to do the cleaning. After cleaning, throw the rag away.
 
Many solvents will damage or remove old finishes, and the whiting can't work over a finish.

About all you could do is work on areas where the finish is gone, and the grease and oils can come to the surface.

About the only way to remove the oil stain in this case would be to mix a little water with the whiting to form a thick paste and apply that to the oil-soaked areas bare of finish.
Then use a heat gun set on low to warm the wood.
The oil will "boil" up and be absorbed by the whiting.

While this won't work as well or as fast as solvent, it will work.
Use as little water as possible with the whiting, and don't over heat the wood.
Also, be aware that even this might cause finish loss if you try to work areas where there's still finish.
 
Thank you both for your input on my query. If I was wary about solvents, I appreciate your confirming this for me and the alternative methods provided. I will test water and various solvent methods with whiting on some stocks that have obviously no finish remaining. The liquid gold sounds good for getting things a bit brighter where I have old oil finsih, but sounds like it might also do some good on varish.

Many thanks.
 
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