Removing Front Sight
- Thread starter butch50
- Start date
CaptainRazor
New member
If it's mil-spec and has the GI sights on it, the front site should be staked onto the slide. Sometimes they are silver soldered as well.
You can see it on the underside of the slide when the barrel is removed.
As a rule, these types of jobs are best left to a smith. You can probably get the old one out OK, but if you don't know what you're doing when staking in the new one, you'll more than likely lose it while shooting.
I pulled one before with a good pair of pliers, broke the sight off of the stake in the process, then punched the old stake down through the slot in the slide.
From experience, I lost a couple of front sights by not getting them staked correctly, after that I take 'em to a smith.
Myself, I'll swap out dovetailed sights, but staked on sights go to someone who knows what they are doing.
You can see it on the underside of the slide when the barrel is removed.
As a rule, these types of jobs are best left to a smith. You can probably get the old one out OK, but if you don't know what you're doing when staking in the new one, you'll more than likely lose it while shooting.
I pulled one before with a good pair of pliers, broke the sight off of the stake in the process, then punched the old stake down through the slot in the slide.
From experience, I lost a couple of front sights by not getting them staked correctly, after that I take 'em to a smith.
Myself, I'll swap out dovetailed sights, but staked on sights go to someone who knows what they are doing.
Dave Sample
Moderator
Like Porcupines make love: very carefully! The dovetail front is the hot ticket now but I still stake them in right.
CaptainRazor
New member
While we're on the subject, I'd really LOVE for somebody to teach me the "correct" way to stake a Front sight on a 1911.
I mean, it's not all THAT complicated is it?
The reason I ask, I am tempted, (later on) to do a little sight changing on a 1911 I picked up a few weeks ago.
Other than a staking tool, what else would I need? A benchblock? Also, what is the "best" type of staking tool? I have seen a couple, I think one is an arsenal type, made by King's, and the other I have seen is the Brownells.
Not much difference in price, any thoughts on the best one?
I mean, it's not all THAT complicated is it?
The reason I ask, I am tempted, (later on) to do a little sight changing on a 1911 I picked up a few weeks ago.
Other than a staking tool, what else would I need? A benchblock? Also, what is the "best" type of staking tool? I have seen a couple, I think one is an arsenal type, made by King's, and the other I have seen is the Brownells.
Not much difference in price, any thoughts on the best one?
Dfariswheel
New member
The main impediments to a front sight that stays put were:
The old-style narrow tenon sight.
Those ENORMOUS front sights people demanded back in the 60's and 70's.
Some of those sights were an inch long.
The main problem was, not providing for an adequate sight rivet.
The three combined to make it difficult to get a sight to stay stuck, and this led to the practice of silver brazing sights in.
This is no longer considered a valid pistolsmith technique.
Today, good pistolsmiths apply NO heat to a gun unless there is just no other choice.
Either the Brownell's or "Ordnance" tool will work fine, it's strictly personal preference.
The "trick" is to use a ball carbide cutter to grind a small "crater" or dimple in the inside of the slide on the bottom of the sight tenon cut.
Grind the excess length off the tenon leaving plenty to rivet.
Rivet the tenon in place. The "crater" inside the slide gives the tenon rivet room to flow and provide plenty of metal to hold the sight.
You want the rivet to fill the "crater".
Where the old timers failed was in just riveting the tenon.
When the excess was ground off to clear the bushing, most of the rivet was ground off too, leaving not enough to hold the sight.
Large sights plus a tenon rivet that was mostly ground right back off resulted in sights flying off or becoming loose.
When the "crater" is cut first, the tenon rivet flows down into it.
When the excess is ground off, there's still plenty left to positively lock the sight in place.
That, plus the newer, smaller, more reasonable sized sights means a sight installation that will stay in place without resorting to silver braze, refinishes, and possible heat treat damage.
As dumb as it sounds, that little dimple or crater was the whole secret the entire time.
No dimple, not enough rivet left, sight won't stay put.
The old-style narrow tenon sight.
Those ENORMOUS front sights people demanded back in the 60's and 70's.
Some of those sights were an inch long.
The main problem was, not providing for an adequate sight rivet.
The three combined to make it difficult to get a sight to stay stuck, and this led to the practice of silver brazing sights in.
This is no longer considered a valid pistolsmith technique.
Today, good pistolsmiths apply NO heat to a gun unless there is just no other choice.
Either the Brownell's or "Ordnance" tool will work fine, it's strictly personal preference.
The "trick" is to use a ball carbide cutter to grind a small "crater" or dimple in the inside of the slide on the bottom of the sight tenon cut.
Grind the excess length off the tenon leaving plenty to rivet.
Rivet the tenon in place. The "crater" inside the slide gives the tenon rivet room to flow and provide plenty of metal to hold the sight.
You want the rivet to fill the "crater".
Where the old timers failed was in just riveting the tenon.
When the excess was ground off to clear the bushing, most of the rivet was ground off too, leaving not enough to hold the sight.
Large sights plus a tenon rivet that was mostly ground right back off resulted in sights flying off or becoming loose.
When the "crater" is cut first, the tenon rivet flows down into it.
When the excess is ground off, there's still plenty left to positively lock the sight in place.
That, plus the newer, smaller, more reasonable sized sights means a sight installation that will stay in place without resorting to silver braze, refinishes, and possible heat treat damage.
As dumb as it sounds, that little dimple or crater was the whole secret the entire time.
No dimple, not enough rivet left, sight won't stay put.
Dave Sample
Moderator
Correctly stated. My MMC sight staking tool cost in excess of $200.00 with both swage bars.
The creation of a funnel or crater is a trick that Bill Wilson and I have used for over 20 years that I know of. Colt never learned how to stake their front sights, so we had to. I have yet to have one come off. Period. I have posted pictures here of how it is done and hate to be reduntant. I find the cheaper sight staking tools crude and like my way the best. I consider them the Hard Way.
Acetone and 640 green Loc-Tite are part of my secret method also. OOOPPPSSS. Not a secret anymore! Here is reduntant on a Norinco.
The creation of a funnel or crater is a trick that Bill Wilson and I have used for over 20 years that I know of. Colt never learned how to stake their front sights, so we had to. I have yet to have one come off. Period. I have posted pictures here of how it is done and hate to be reduntant. I find the cheaper sight staking tools crude and like my way the best. I consider them the Hard Way.
Acetone and 640 green Loc-Tite are part of my secret method also. OOOPPPSSS. Not a secret anymore! Here is reduntant on a Norinco.
Dave Sample
Moderator
Nice job well done.
CaptainRazor
New member
Thanks guys, good info there! I have noticed on most of the newer clones that there is indeed a "crater" already in the slide. I guess the secret it out! 
Thanks again, you guys just confirmed what I thought was the right way.
Thanks again, you guys just confirmed what I thought was the right way.