Removing burn marks from Ti gun

M

marca

New member
I usually use Flitz on the cylinder face of my stainless S&W 60 but am not sure what's safe to use on titanium (S&W 337 PD). I know S&W says you shouldn't use lead-out because it may damage the coating. I have some very stubborn marks along the face and edges of the cylinder.

Thanks
 
I actually called S&W on that. I have the Ti .44 spec. They told me to have at it with a bronze brush and a good solvent and not to worry about it. Wish they were more specific about what I could do to it in the owners manual. Thats not gospel, just the advise I was given.
 
Sgt...

Someone gave you the WRONG advice! You don't use ANYTHING ABRASIVE on the front of your Ti cylinder. If you do, and you remove the protective "clear-coat" the Ti will start to corrode from the firing process. Ti is usually very strong, plus it is non-reactive to things like sweat. However, remove that clear-coat, and you'll reduce the life of the cylinder. I e-mailed S&W and got the opposite answer you got! They told me to use a commercial gun cleaner like Hoppe's and something soft (like a Q-tip) on the front of my Ti cylinder.

Marca: I believe I'm correct on this one. (At least!:rolleyes: )

KR
 
KR has it... NO abrasives on the TI cylinder... just a cleaner and a q-tip or soft rag...

one thing that helps is to wax it before you shoot it...(car type turtlewax works well)

it makes cleanup MUCH easier!
 
One more aye to Kentucky Rifle's answer; I got a 340PD yesterday and called S&W straight off to find out if there were specific care and cleaning requirements that weren't made clear in the packaged literature, and this is the one thing they stressed. The fella did say 'nothing more abrasive than a bronze brush', but he was referring to the barrel and chambers then. As far as the titanium finish on the exterior of the cylinder, NO ABRASIVES is the rule.

CW
 
KR--thanks for the headsup; I'll stick with nylon for the chambers. That's what I use almost exclusively on the barrel, anyway.

CW
 
The zillionish of an inch clear coat is only on the gun to protect the even thinner colored oxidation surface film. Titanium is one of the most corrosion resistant metals known. Not using abrasives is advised to protect the gun's good looks. Titanium is usually a little softer than steel and abrasives have a greater effect.

Elliot
 
Elliot...

You're correct about titanium being a non-reactive metal. Sweat doesn't bother it at all. However, the by-products of gunfire will. The clear coat is not there just to protect the looks. The life of a ti cylinder will be greatly reduced if you use something abrasive and remove the clear coat. Corrosion will start and just keep on going until your ti cylinder is either worthless or too ugly to use.

KR
 
KR, I don't know what to make of the Smith cylinder. I know they had lots of problems (at first) with TI and high speed bullets. My TI Taurus gets lots of use and has had no coating on the cylinder face for over a year, but I don't remove the powder rings on a regular basis. Maybe they protect the cylinder face? I'll believe anything if I like the gun.

Elliot
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top