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Removing a 1911 ejector?
- Thread starter Chris D
- Start date
John Lawson
New member
Make certain that the pin is out. Turn the grip frame upside down, clamp smooth vise jaws hard onto all of the ejector that protrudes. Then grasp the frame solidly and pull upward while slightly rocking back and forth lengthwise of the ejector as you loosen and pull the frame up off the solidly held ejector.
If it won't loosen, some genius has appllied LocTite to the holding pins and you have to apply heat to the protruding part of the ejector. Moderate heat is called for. Then clamp it and again try to remove the frame from the solidly grasped ejector.
Some gunsmiths use a toolmaker's vise to clamp the ejector itself and rock as they lift. Don't rock it side to side, only fore and aft.
[This message has been edited by John Lawson (edited December 30, 1999).]
If it won't loosen, some genius has appllied LocTite to the holding pins and you have to apply heat to the protruding part of the ejector. Moderate heat is called for. Then clamp it and again try to remove the frame from the solidly grasped ejector.
Some gunsmiths use a toolmaker's vise to clamp the ejector itself and rock as they lift. Don't rock it side to side, only fore and aft.
[This message has been edited by John Lawson (edited December 30, 1999).]
When you put the new ejector in, you will notice that there is no clearance for the pin that holds it in. DO NOT install the ejector and then try to drill the new clearance slot. You will screw up the frame. Insert a small drill bit in the pin hole and work it with your fingers to mark the ejector leg. Remove the ejector and file a new notch in the leg.
Please don't ask how I know. LOL
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Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"
Please don't ask how I know. LOL
------------------
Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"
John's method of using a vise should work. Some of them have a slot for inserting and then twisting the end of a flat screw driver.
If it's really tight, try a little heat. It may have been installed incorrectly with some Loc-Tite.
Good Luck...
Joe
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Go NRA
If it's really tight, try a little heat. It may have been installed incorrectly with some Loc-Tite.
Good Luck...
Joe
------------------
Go NRA
John Lawson
New member
Marking the front pin is a good idea, but you may be the kind of person who wears both a belt AND suspenders. To make certain, clamp both the old and the new ejectors together between smooth, accurate vise jaws with the front pins side by side, and file your groove with a round needle file, giving you a visual gage on position and depth.
Also, don't bother to ask ME how I came to that conclusion. Just look in the bottom drawer of my workbench.
If the ejector IS relieved on the bottom to allow insertion of a screwdriver blade, I would not advise removing it from a stainless steel frame by twisting the blade under a tight one.
[This message has been edited by John Lawson (edited January 01, 2000).]
Also, don't bother to ask ME how I came to that conclusion. Just look in the bottom drawer of my workbench.
If the ejector IS relieved on the bottom to allow insertion of a screwdriver blade, I would not advise removing it from a stainless steel frame by twisting the blade under a tight one.
[This message has been edited by John Lawson (edited January 01, 2000).]
Thanks guys, i finaly got around to working on it.
As suspected Loc Tite was used and a small torch was the answer.
The new one is in and I will be testing it out next weekend.
One thing I noticed with that the old one (stainless steel) was very soft and was begining to peen (this is why I replaced it) is this common with the SS ones? I bought a blued steel one to prevent this from occuring again.
Thanks to all!
Chris
As suspected Loc Tite was used and a small torch was the answer.
The new one is in and I will be testing it out next weekend.
One thing I noticed with that the old one (stainless steel) was very soft and was begining to peen (this is why I replaced it) is this common with the SS ones? I bought a blued steel one to prevent this from occuring again.
Thanks to all!
Chris