psycho nut
New member
My mom is buying my brother an 1100 for christmas, is there any special things that must be done for this model? Or just clean it like others?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Remmy 1100 cleaning help
- Thread starter psycho nut
- Start date
parlorshark
New member
Be careful when cleaning the inside of the reciever . The 1100s get a razor sharp edge inside them after being shot a lot . Also pay close attention to the gas ports inside the ring on the bottom of the barrel . Standard models have 1 hole , magnums have 2 , if they get cloged it wont funtion correctly .
psycho nut
New member
Okay, thank you I will tell him when he gets it.
Lycanthrope
New member
The 1100 is a gas gun and the insides can get dirty. After about 500 hundred I take out the trigger group (knock out the two pins in the receiver and she'll drop out the bottom) and hose the group out with lighter fluid. You may want to buy a couple extra O rings, but they don't wear out nearly as often as you'd be lead to believe.
psycho nut
New member
Is there a specific size of O-rings? And how will you tell when they ware out?
Lycanthrope
New member
Yes, the part number out of Brownells is 767-158-990
Or just click here:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=10742&title=BARREL+SEAL
You change them out when they get dry or brittle or when the gun stops cycling low power ammo. The 1100 uses barrel gases to cycle the action and these are vented under the front handguard to push a piston assembly.
Field stripping 101:
http://www.gunsworld.com/exploded/rem1100.htm
When you strip the 1100 you take the cap off the end of the forearm (watch that magazine spring!). You then take the forearm up and off. The barrel then just lifts out and under the barrel you will see that barrel seal and below that a couple metal rings (piston rings...they have small gaps.....try to not let the gaps line up and bleed pressure when you put them back in). That's my basic field strip.
If you want to go the full out blown/injected/no part unturned field strip then just yank the bolt handle straight out...it's held in with a detent...no fancy tricks. You then stick a couple fingers up in the loading ramp (bottom of the gun) and find a flexible little tab on the inside right of the gun (can't remember the term this morning.....someone will likely chime in). You hold that in and with some wiggling you can pull the whole piston assembly and the bolt right out for cleaning.....It will go back in the same way.
Once that's out, all that is left is the trigger assembly...which just drops out with the two pins and......the "Link" which looks like a hammer with a split handle. You don't have to take the Link out for full cleaning....PAY ATTENTION to how it rides in the receiver and note the two tails do get compressed and sit inside the hole at the rear of the receiver. If it comes out it can be a pain to get situated just right without 3 hands.
Or just click here:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=10742&title=BARREL+SEAL
You change them out when they get dry or brittle or when the gun stops cycling low power ammo. The 1100 uses barrel gases to cycle the action and these are vented under the front handguard to push a piston assembly.
Field stripping 101:
http://www.gunsworld.com/exploded/rem1100.htm
When you strip the 1100 you take the cap off the end of the forearm (watch that magazine spring!). You then take the forearm up and off. The barrel then just lifts out and under the barrel you will see that barrel seal and below that a couple metal rings (piston rings...they have small gaps.....try to not let the gaps line up and bleed pressure when you put them back in). That's my basic field strip.
If you want to go the full out blown/injected/no part unturned field strip then just yank the bolt handle straight out...it's held in with a detent...no fancy tricks. You then stick a couple fingers up in the loading ramp (bottom of the gun) and find a flexible little tab on the inside right of the gun (can't remember the term this morning.....someone will likely chime in). You hold that in and with some wiggling you can pull the whole piston assembly and the bolt right out for cleaning.....It will go back in the same way.
Once that's out, all that is left is the trigger assembly...which just drops out with the two pins and......the "Link" which looks like a hammer with a split handle. You don't have to take the Link out for full cleaning....PAY ATTENTION to how it rides in the receiver and note the two tails do get compressed and sit inside the hole at the rear of the receiver. If it comes out it can be a pain to get situated just right without 3 hands.
psycho nut
New member
Okay, thank you for the sites I'll give him some printouts or something when he gets it.
charlie in md
New member
The most important part is to scrub the magazine tube outside, where the pistons ride. PS Parlorshark is incorrect about the ports. standard has 2 holes, and 3" magnum barrels have one.