I recently acquired a Remington Army percussion gun. It has been used hard, but still shoots very well. The problem is that when I put it on half cock, the cylinder bolt engages so the cylinder will not rotate freely. There are two clicks, one right after the other. The first is the trigger being set and the other is the bolt clicking up against the cylinder. I suspect an altered or worn part, but I need some advice on what to do.
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Remington New Model Army revolver
- Thread starter Fortysix
- Start date
Nice acquisition
And what a great place to start.
You prolly got this pistol pretty cheap. It will be inexpensive to shoot if you learn to do some stuff on your own. (We can help with that.) Remington is a very user friendly design.
It is actually a blessing that the pistol does not function perfectly since it will give you the opportunity to ponder how the piece actually works. Maybe you are a long time shooter who already knows what to do. Don't mean to offend in any way.
It is likely that the bolt is dropping off the hammer cam prematurely.
Several things can be wrong:
1. Hammer cam worn. (Possible) Replace the hammer with one which will work.
2. Bolt worn. (A little more possible) Replace the bolt with one which will work.
3. Bolt legs need to be spread open. (Most likely scenario and the one which requires a good bit of caution. Those legs break easily.)
Take the pistol apart. Take some photos. Upload to photobucket.com. Link the photos in your next text. Wait for responses. You'll have this pistol working in about a week.
And what a great place to start.
You prolly got this pistol pretty cheap. It will be inexpensive to shoot if you learn to do some stuff on your own. (We can help with that.) Remington is a very user friendly design.
It is actually a blessing that the pistol does not function perfectly since it will give you the opportunity to ponder how the piece actually works. Maybe you are a long time shooter who already knows what to do. Don't mean to offend in any way.
It is likely that the bolt is dropping off the hammer cam prematurely.
Several things can be wrong:
1. Hammer cam worn. (Possible) Replace the hammer with one which will work.
2. Bolt worn. (A little more possible) Replace the bolt with one which will work.
3. Bolt legs need to be spread open. (Most likely scenario and the one which requires a good bit of caution. Those legs break easily.)
Take the pistol apart. Take some photos. Upload to photobucket.com. Link the photos in your next text. Wait for responses. You'll have this pistol working in about a week.
Driftwood Johnson
New member
Howdy
Before you take the pistol apart, remove the cylinder. Push the cylinder pin back in position and close the loading lever. Then with the cylinder removed first make sure the hammer is all the way forward. Then slowly cock the hammer. Watch the bolt. It should withdraw into the frame when you start to move the hammer. When the hammer reaches the half-cock position the bolt should remain withdrawn down inside the frame. Pulling the hammer some more from half cock, the bolt should pop up at some point before full cock is reached. At full cock the bolt should have already popped up.
What happens?
Before you take the pistol apart, remove the cylinder. Push the cylinder pin back in position and close the loading lever. Then with the cylinder removed first make sure the hammer is all the way forward. Then slowly cock the hammer. Watch the bolt. It should withdraw into the frame when you start to move the hammer. When the hammer reaches the half-cock position the bolt should remain withdrawn down inside the frame. Pulling the hammer some more from half cock, the bolt should pop up at some point before full cock is reached. At full cock the bolt should have already popped up.
What happens?
I bought 2 of them, a 3 1/2" and an 8". So far the large revolver has ben the most fragile, the loading lever just started falling down every shot!
I wonder if I pushed too hard seating a ball at one time or another? I have been told that the screw that holds the lever on is soft and bends>
I dunno but I can't get the screw out to check it! It was too tight from the factory! I'm going to try and find a "Nut Driver" and see if that'll break it loose?
For the time being, I just use a piece of black electrical tape to hold it in place. EMBARASSUNG!
Now the 5 1/2" revolver is a dream!
Shoots right on at 7 yards dead centered and handles 35 gr loads of Pyrodex with ease! Packs quite a punch too with this load! I don't own a chrony but from the posts I've read, it's doing over 850fps with a ball and such a charge! A powerfull load!
The shorter bbl handles very well also, much easier to swing to the target than the long one. It also draws really noce too.
I either use a sholder holster or a cross-draw rig for it. The large Remington frames fit most CF holsters.
I really wish I'd have gotten 2 of the short guns!
BPDave
I wonder if I pushed too hard seating a ball at one time or another? I have been told that the screw that holds the lever on is soft and bends>
I dunno but I can't get the screw out to check it! It was too tight from the factory! I'm going to try and find a "Nut Driver" and see if that'll break it loose?
For the time being, I just use a piece of black electrical tape to hold it in place. EMBARASSUNG!
Now the 5 1/2" revolver is a dream!
Shoots right on at 7 yards dead centered and handles 35 gr loads of Pyrodex with ease! Packs quite a punch too with this load! I don't own a chrony but from the posts I've read, it's doing over 850fps with a ball and such a charge! A powerfull load!
The shorter bbl handles very well also, much easier to swing to the target than the long one. It also draws really noce too.
I either use a sholder holster or a cross-draw rig for it. The large Remington frames fit most CF holsters.
I really wish I'd have gotten 2 of the short guns!
BPDave
rodwhaincamo
New member
850 fps with a 141 grn ball yields 226 ft/lbs.
Now that's cooking! 225ftlbs of speedy, penetrating round ball! I have read that the plain round ball was the favored lead for the battlefield because it loaded so easilly and that they really got in deep and stayed!
I doubt I'll ever face down a bad guy with either of my Remingtons, but it sure is good to know that it shoots within todays Combat powered loads!
I prefer the Remingtons mechanicals because with just a little preventative maintance, they run trouble-free. Cap jams are far less frequent with the '58s but they are closer tolerance and need wipedowns every couple of cylinders.
I still have to hand it to our forefathers, facing Battle with guns with so many little things that could cause a jam! Brave men whotook danger by the tail and whipped the head off!
ZVP
I doubt I'll ever face down a bad guy with either of my Remingtons, but it sure is good to know that it shoots within todays Combat powered loads!
I prefer the Remingtons mechanicals because with just a little preventative maintance, they run trouble-free. Cap jams are far less frequent with the '58s but they are closer tolerance and need wipedowns every couple of cylinders.
I still have to hand it to our forefathers, facing Battle with guns with so many little things that could cause a jam! Brave men whotook danger by the tail and whipped the head off!
ZVP
rodwhaincamo
New member
Note the difference Triple 7 makes:
http://poconoshooting.com/blackpowderballistics.html
Swiss and Olde Eynsford gives very similar velocities as T7 volume for volume.
http://poconoshooting.com/blackpowderballistics.html
Swiss and Olde Eynsford gives very similar velocities as T7 volume for volume.