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remington model 11?s
- Thread starter ebk637
- Start date
Possible problem:
The wood in the forearm is compacted too much to stop the forward bolt travel because it has been softened by solvents (not likely unless someone removed the metal sleeve) OR
The magazine cap is not fully tightened and allowing the forearm to move forward as the action closes which allows the bolt handle to hit the front of the ejection port OR
Someone put a Browning forearm on it after the original forearm split (splitting forearm is a very common problem- Browning forearms are slightly longer) OR
Most likely the bolt is not actually hitting the front of the ejection port when the gun fires, the ejection port has likely been peened by the bolt handle because of someone releasing the bolt when the barrel is out of the receiver.
The wood in the forearm is compacted too much to stop the forward bolt travel because it has been softened by solvents (not likely unless someone removed the metal sleeve) OR
The magazine cap is not fully tightened and allowing the forearm to move forward as the action closes which allows the bolt handle to hit the front of the ejection port OR
Someone put a Browning forearm on it after the original forearm split (splitting forearm is a very common problem- Browning forearms are slightly longer) OR
Most likely the bolt is not actually hitting the front of the ejection port when the gun fires, the ejection port has likely been peened by the bolt handle because of someone releasing the bolt when the barrel is out of the receiver.
Thanks for the great info!
Its gonna go to a gunsmith to get a good work over and repair.
I love the feel of this gun and want to keep it in the family for as long as possible.
it is in good shape other than the stated issue.
another qyestion i have is that it has what appears to be a muzzle suppressor on the barrel with a choke tube screwed into it marked 1/4.
does this mean what choke size it is?
is it an improved?
Its gonna go to a gunsmith to get a good work over and repair.
I love the feel of this gun and want to keep it in the family for as long as possible.
it is in good shape other than the stated issue.
another qyestion i have is that it has what appears to be a muzzle suppressor on the barrel with a choke tube screwed into it marked 1/4.
does this mean what choke size it is?
is it an improved?
My father had a Mod 11, military surplus riot gun. He had a Cutts Compensator installed. Several years before his death, he sold it to somebody in the sheriff's office of a nearby county. The Cutts used either an adjustable tube, kind of like the Poly, or individual choke tubes. Cutts tubes are available from Brownell's.
Take a look at the Cutts Compensator; could be what you have.
Take a look at the Cutts Compensator; could be what you have.
kirbythegunsmith
New member
Details
The Weaver choke was a fairly well-known device in times past, and a few still like to use them. I put them on occasionally for shooters, as well as other choke work.
The tubes are not impossible to find, but are aluminum, so not compatible with any hard shot, like steel or hevi-shot, etc.
I have and can make replacement chokes for those that want something even better, from my special choke steel. If you just want user light duty lead shot tubes, look around for a while, since there is a small amount of them floating around. The factory tubes are SKEET, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, FULL, and XFULL, I believe. I can make any size and in between sizes if you have the need for custom size, extra strength, better fit, and higher cost than sometimes a factory tube may bring.
I would not expect factory Weaver tubes to be over $25 each or so, but you be the judge. Aluminum tubes can more easily be dinged, squeezed, or other damage that you might not notice until too late, if you found at a gun show, for instance.
The wrench is a straight bar of steel to go through the two holes in the tube, and can be fabbed from basic steel pin material.
kirbythegunsmith@hotmail.com
The Weaver choke was a fairly well-known device in times past, and a few still like to use them. I put them on occasionally for shooters, as well as other choke work.
The tubes are not impossible to find, but are aluminum, so not compatible with any hard shot, like steel or hevi-shot, etc.
I have and can make replacement chokes for those that want something even better, from my special choke steel. If you just want user light duty lead shot tubes, look around for a while, since there is a small amount of them floating around. The factory tubes are SKEET, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, FULL, and XFULL, I believe. I can make any size and in between sizes if you have the need for custom size, extra strength, better fit, and higher cost than sometimes a factory tube may bring.
I would not expect factory Weaver tubes to be over $25 each or so, but you be the judge. Aluminum tubes can more easily be dinged, squeezed, or other damage that you might not notice until too late, if you found at a gun show, for instance.
The wrench is a straight bar of steel to go through the two holes in the tube, and can be fabbed from basic steel pin material.
kirbythegunsmith@hotmail.com