Remington dri-lube and my AR
- Thread starter Chris_B
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, I prefer FP10 on everything else.sailskidrive
New member
I've used it
I used to use it in a Fulton Armory carbine to spray down the inside of the upper receiver, however I still used a little Enos's Slide Glide between the bolt and carrier. I now have all nickel boron plated carriers and don't use any lube at all and have had no issues.
I used to use it in a Fulton Armory carbine to spray down the inside of the upper receiver, however I still used a little Enos's Slide Glide between the bolt and carrier. I now have all nickel boron plated carriers and don't use any lube at all and have had no issues.
Bartholomew Roberts
Moderator
I've used it in an AR... ten years or so ago. I did not find it all that effective. According to a 1990s era dust test by NSWC Crane, the reason may be that the dry lubes are good at reducing friction; but not so good at allowing contaminants/debris to migrate out of critical areas.
okiewita40
New member
Used dry lube on the glocks at my dept. Never had an easier time with the slides. Not sure how it would work on an AR.
zombieslayer
New member
Maybe on a Mini 14, but I wouldn't with an AR. Soak it in gun oil.
That'll Do
New member
Just use gun oil with your AR, and leave the dry lube for another purpose. A wet AR is a well-running AR.
Check this thread to see how to properly lubricate your gun (it's about half way through the post): http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=35490
If you use a quality gun oil, in appropriate amounts (generous, but not dripping wet), you should have no lubrication-related problems.
Check this thread to see how to properly lubricate your gun (it's about half way through the post): http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=35490
If you use a quality gun oil, in appropriate amounts (generous, but not dripping wet), you should have no lubrication-related problems.
zombieslayer
New member
I've gotten PM's from all sorts of people who say they soak their bcg's in ATF fluid, spray copious amounts of oil into the upper, and all sorts of ultra-lube madness. My original post was taken a bit out of context, but when it comes down to it, the AR does require a good amount of lube compared to most other guns. At least in my experience.
I dont know about the wet AR argument. Too much of it and your likely to get the AR gunked up. Seen it happen during weapons qualification quite a few times. I used Break Free CLP most of my military career. Still do on my own personally owned ones. There are probably some other good lubricants out there also.
heard good things about FP10 too.
There is a FrogLube product that has my curiosity going...
heard good things about FP10 too.
There is a FrogLube product that has my curiosity going...
The Army already has a dry lube specified to be applied as part of the TDP. They have also reviewed the performance of other applications like nitriding, future changes may come from that. Nitriding parts like lifters and rocker arms - with the roller tips deleted from the design - show they resist scuffing well and actually increase the RPM capability in NASCAR engines because of less reciprocating weight.
Ceramic coated flat tappets don't even need to be put back on the same lobe. Yes, it is rocket science, and if it works for your car engine, it will certainly work for the much more simple firearm.
Think about it, the average RPMS of a track racer is about 8,000, divide by 8 cylinders and the 4 stroke Otto cycle, that's 500 rounds per minute. For a three hour race, 3000 rounds per hour, 9000 rounds for the event.
Can you shoot 9000 rounds in three hours and reuse the parts in the next match? Well, of course you'll need water cooling, and inject oil between the moving parts, and have gas ring seal that doesn't wear away, etc etc.
Point being, I don't recommend many gun oils - at $16 a quart, they aren't really competitive. Dry film lubes are ok, tho.
Ceramic coated flat tappets don't even need to be put back on the same lobe. Yes, it is rocket science, and if it works for your car engine, it will certainly work for the much more simple firearm.
Think about it, the average RPMS of a track racer is about 8,000, divide by 8 cylinders and the 4 stroke Otto cycle, that's 500 rounds per minute. For a three hour race, 3000 rounds per hour, 9000 rounds for the event.
Can you shoot 9000 rounds in three hours and reuse the parts in the next match? Well, of course you'll need water cooling, and inject oil between the moving parts, and have gas ring seal that doesn't wear away, etc etc.
Point being, I don't recommend many gun oils - at $16 a quart, they aren't really competitive. Dry film lubes are ok, tho.
If by that it's meant that an externally applied film, and a sprayed plasma that becomes part of the molecular surface are different, sure.
But, they are both dry, as opposed to a wet petroleum film that can be removed, which is why the Army considered dry films and nitride type applications the same category, as opposed to something constantly reapplied by the user.
More like related citrus fruits, versus the apples of dinosaur or synthetic refined fluids, which obviously are wet.
Me, I use Dexron.
But, they are both dry, as opposed to a wet petroleum film that can be removed, which is why the Army considered dry films and nitride type applications the same category, as opposed to something constantly reapplied by the user.
More like related citrus fruits, versus the apples of dinosaur or synthetic refined fluids, which obviously are wet.
Me, I use Dexron.
Wet and Dry AR
Apply the froglube when the weapon is warm-even hot. it'll absorb in deep & faster. wipe off the excess. do this a couple of times and the gun will be really 'slick' and fully saturated. when you go to shoot, shoot it dry-keeps the dust and dirt out. as it heats up, you'll see the froglube return. it comes to the surface where it really hot, lifts out the carbon and other fouling and brings it to the surface. when the weapon cools, it simply wipes off. hey, self cleaning!
http://fmgpublications.ipaperus.com/FMGPublications/AmericanHandgunner/AHJA11/?page=50
Apply the froglube when the weapon is warm-even hot. it'll absorb in deep & faster. wipe off the excess. do this a couple of times and the gun will be really 'slick' and fully saturated. when you go to shoot, shoot it dry-keeps the dust and dirt out. as it heats up, you'll see the froglube return. it comes to the surface where it really hot, lifts out the carbon and other fouling and brings it to the surface. when the weapon cools, it simply wipes off. hey, self cleaning!
http://fmgpublications.ipaperus.com/FMGPublications/AmericanHandgunner/AHJA11/?page=50
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