I have Remington 300 Win Mag bolt action that I have had for a few years now. I recently had work done to it (new trigger and muzzle brake) and after firing it the bolt wont extract the spent round. Works fine with unspent round but as soon as fire it, it sticks and takes all my strength to extract the round. Took it back to gunsmith and after that fired several rounds all was good. Went hunt last week shot at an axis and it jammed again. It is very frustrating and I don't know what else to do. Any help would be great thanks!
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Remington Bolt action sticks
- Thread starter Drewski
- Start date
dakota.potts
New member
I agree it could be ammo. Could also be the chamber dimensions.
Did the gunsmith check the headspace? Do the cases come out clean looking without any scratches, dings etc. ?
Did the gunsmith check the headspace? Do the cases come out clean looking without any scratches, dings etc. ?
I'd sure consider it could be hot ammo.Look at the case,like looking at the primer.You can even look at the primer.You can see signs of pressure there.Any shiny spots on the brass,like the brass extruded into the ejector on the bolt face? Same old ammo or did anything change with the ammo? Different bullet,new powder? Primer? Was the ammo sort of hot?(OOPS! You answered my question. I doubt factory loadswould create bolt sticking pressure,especially if both WW and Rem do it)
One other thing,kind of crazy,but could be.New trigger. A Rem has a trigger safety. When the safety is "On" it locks the bolt. Generally,a stamped piece of steel in the rigger cams up and engages a slot in the bolt.Sometimes the gunsmith has to make minor adjustments to get things just right.
Also,might be that 300 kicks hard enough somehow the safety is getting moved.
I'm not sure if this next one has any mechanical possibility,but on an older stock,sometimes wood compresses. A few things can happen when the guard screws are tightened.That can make the guard screws act like they got longer.A screw tip can run interference somewhere.And,the crushed wood plus tight screws can flex the action.
But,IMO,neither of those add up to what you are getting.Why only after firing?
One other thing,kind of crazy,but could be.New trigger. A Rem has a trigger safety. When the safety is "On" it locks the bolt. Generally,a stamped piece of steel in the rigger cams up and engages a slot in the bolt.Sometimes the gunsmith has to make minor adjustments to get things just right.
Also,might be that 300 kicks hard enough somehow the safety is getting moved.
I'm not sure if this next one has any mechanical possibility,but on an older stock,sometimes wood compresses. A few things can happen when the guard screws are tightened.That can make the guard screws act like they got longer.A screw tip can run interference somewhere.And,the crushed wood plus tight screws can flex the action.
But,IMO,neither of those add up to what you are getting.Why only after firing?
Last edited:
reynolds357
New member
If you are firing factory loads then I doubt it is ammo. Does the rifle group good with the brake on? The only thing I can think of is the brake is not machined correctly and is either misaligned or the center hole is too small. It should wreak havoc on accuracy.
Sounds fairly straight forward.
Rifle worked OK before having "trigger and muzzle brake" work. Triggers don't cause hard extraction so rule that out. The leaves "muzzle brake work" as the most likely cause.
Find out EXACTLY what the gunsmith(?) did while installing the MB and how he did it. IF the threading involved removing the barrel from the action(yes, some shops do it that way due to clearances on their lathe) something in the process may have caused a scratch, burr, ding in the chamber. Another possibility(I'm not sure about this but was told it happens) is the muzzle threads are oversize causing the muzzle brake to actually "squeeze" the muzzle(sort of like a shotgun choke). This increases pressure resulting in hard bolt lift.
Rifle worked OK before having "trigger and muzzle brake" work. Triggers don't cause hard extraction so rule that out. The leaves "muzzle brake work" as the most likely cause.
Find out EXACTLY what the gunsmith(?) did while installing the MB and how he did it. IF the threading involved removing the barrel from the action(yes, some shops do it that way due to clearances on their lathe) something in the process may have caused a scratch, burr, ding in the chamber. Another possibility(I'm not sure about this but was told it happens) is the muzzle threads are oversize causing the muzzle brake to actually "squeeze" the muzzle(sort of like a shotgun choke). This increases pressure resulting in hard bolt lift.