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Remington 700PSS
- Thread starter ar15usa
- Start date
If you are going with this set up you will need additional
elevation to shoot long range. IMHO Badger is the way to go and they have an additional 20 moa built in to the base. The base & rings are not cheap by any means. Some will tell you to go with the Leupold base and MK IV rings and I guess they are O.K. but if you want the best again go with the Badger.
I have them on my weapon with the MK IV and I love them. they are built rock solid.
Go to-http://www.Badgerordnance.COM/ and I think you will like what you see.
elevation to shoot long range. IMHO Badger is the way to go and they have an additional 20 moa built in to the base. The base & rings are not cheap by any means. Some will tell you to go with the Leupold base and MK IV rings and I guess they are O.K. but if you want the best again go with the Badger.
I have them on my weapon with the MK IV and I love them. they are built rock solid.
Go to-http://www.Badgerordnance.COM/ and I think you will like what you see.
Pick up a set of badger short-action base and the 30mm Medium rings. Check out Premier Reticles for some of the best prices around.
$118 for the base
$125 for the rings.
Pick up a Seekonk t-handle torque wrench (65 in-lbs) also, you'll be using it to tighten the ring cross-bolts as well as the action screws on the PSS.
Be sure to lap your rings before you mount your scope.
$118 for the base
$125 for the rings.
Pick up a Seekonk t-handle torque wrench (65 in-lbs) also, you'll be using it to tighten the ring cross-bolts as well as the action screws on the PSS.
Be sure to lap your rings before you mount your scope.
Go to http://www.snipercountry.com . Go to the Sniper Country PX and there you will find an e-mail address for a guy named Scott. He is selling IOR bases and rings that are a bit cheaper than the Badger Ordnance. He even has a new IOR base that is exactly like the BO 20 MOA angled base with the 15 slots. I am supposed to get mine any day now and I will let you guys know how it works out. If you want to save a few bucks on an otherwise expensive venture, I don't think you are going to go wrong with the IOR products. Anyone else disagree?
You will NOT need a tapered base with the Leupold MK4 10X, there is plenty of internal adjustment in this scope to reach well beyond the effective range of the .308 on a flat base.
Having said that, Badger Ordnance rings and bases are still the way to go, just don't get the tapered base.
Having said that, Badger Ordnance rings and bases are still the way to go, just don't get the tapered base.
MK4M3...tapered base
You MAY very well need that tapered base, the M3, is not 1/4 moa clicks, it's a BDC.
Also, do NOT buy the medium rings for the PSS....that will only compound your loss of elevation.
A MK4M1, does not need any tapered base for out to and past 1K.....the M3 is a Nuther story.(maybe, maybe not....get the Badger 20 moa base, and only buy a base ONCE.)
MK4 rings are fine, or get the Badger Standards.........
The higher your rings, the more ele you lose, and also proper cheekweld comes into play.......
Do not make it any harder on yourself than you have to.
You MAY very well need that tapered base, the M3, is not 1/4 moa clicks, it's a BDC.
Also, do NOT buy the medium rings for the PSS....that will only compound your loss of elevation.
A MK4M1, does not need any tapered base for out to and past 1K.....the M3 is a Nuther story.(maybe, maybe not....get the Badger 20 moa base, and only buy a base ONCE.)
MK4 rings are fine, or get the Badger Standards.........
The higher your rings, the more ele you lose, and also proper cheekweld comes into play.......
Do not make it any harder on yourself than you have to.
The M3 is not a BDC, it is a 1 MOA per click elevation adjustment that has knobs labeled with numbers every few clicks that may or may not track your load properly. The total travel of the adjustment is the same as with the M1 1/4 MOA click turret, it just makes a larger adjustment per click.
Get the MOA!
With all due respect Rex, I highly recommend that you get a tapered base. I have a Rem 700 Vs in .308 along with the Leupold 6.5-20x50 LRT and I ran out of elevation at 900 yards. I still shot one heck of a score at 1000 yards by holding over, but oh how nice it will be when I get my tapered base in. It is always better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. Trust me, I bought Leupold dual dovetail rings and then I had to eventually go to the tapered bases. Just take care of the problem now. You won't be sorry you did.
A concern is that you are going to lose some cheek weld with these setups. Start thinking about how you are going to correct the cheek weld problem. I went the extreme route and bought a new HS precision tactical stock with an adjustable cheek piece. You might not need to go that far.
With all due respect Rex, I highly recommend that you get a tapered base. I have a Rem 700 Vs in .308 along with the Leupold 6.5-20x50 LRT and I ran out of elevation at 900 yards. I still shot one heck of a score at 1000 yards by holding over, but oh how nice it will be when I get my tapered base in. It is always better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. Trust me, I bought Leupold dual dovetail rings and then I had to eventually go to the tapered bases. Just take care of the problem now. You won't be sorry you did.
A concern is that you are going to lose some cheek weld with these setups. Start thinking about how you are going to correct the cheek weld problem. I went the extreme route and bought a new HS precision tactical stock with an adjustable cheek piece. You might not need to go that far.
Even if the scope has enough total adjustment, without the tapered base you are only using half of it. Assuming that your mounts are exactly parallel to the bore, you must elevate some amount to even be "dead-on" at 100 yards so over half the total scope adjustment range is being wasted.
Even if the scope has the amount of adjustment needed in the half that's left, why push the scope to it's limit of adjustment? A tapered base doesn't adversely affect the short range adjustment and keeps most of your zeros around the mechanical center of the scopes adjustment range.
If you already have a quality standard base then that might make your choice for you but if you gotta buy one anyway, the tapered base gives you more long range options without sacrificing anything.
Mikey
Even if the scope has the amount of adjustment needed in the half that's left, why push the scope to it's limit of adjustment? A tapered base doesn't adversely affect the short range adjustment and keeps most of your zeros around the mechanical center of the scopes adjustment range.
If you already have a quality standard base then that might make your choice for you but if you gotta buy one anyway, the tapered base gives you more long range options without sacrificing anything.
Mikey
To answer Rex.
The LRT's have 60 MOA. That means only 30 up and 30 down. I ran about 5 moa or so short at 1000 yards! So close, but so far away. The MK4's might have the extra MOA you need, but if you want to avoid having to buy another set of rings and a base later on, just get the most you will need now. I just made that mistake and I am just now correcting it. I am trying to save you the trouble (and money!) AR15USA. And thank you Rex for your points, it is topics like this that help out shooters so much and can really save people from making the same mistakes we all have painfully made!
The LRT's have 60 MOA. That means only 30 up and 30 down. I ran about 5 moa or so short at 1000 yards! So close, but so far away. The MK4's might have the extra MOA you need, but if you want to avoid having to buy another set of rings and a base later on, just get the most you will need now. I just made that mistake and I am just now correcting it. I am trying to save you the trouble (and money!) AR15USA. And thank you Rex for your points, it is topics like this that help out shooters so much and can really save people from making the same mistakes we all have painfully made!
LRT's, & MK4.............
Rex F,others.......
the MK4M3, has 72 moa total, the MK4 M1's 10x, have 90 moa total, MK4 M1-16X, has 140 moa total. as does the 20x.
The LRT's also have 90 moa total, All have 30mm tubes.
The MK4M3, IS a BDC scope with the proper dial, and will act accordingly with the RIGHT load.
Problem is, as Rex said, you gotta know the right load.
The dials are all wrong on the M3 series scopes.
For the loads they SAY they will work with.
One exception, the M118 dial ( which is no longer available).
Also, keep in mind, as you use windage, you lose ELEVATION adjustment.
ONE more reason to go tapered (insurance policy).
The point I was trying to make, is BUY the tapered base........you can't lose on this choice.....if you buy the standard.....as others, and myself have stated, you MAY get to do it twice.........and at $130.00 a shot, that's expensive.
Rex F,others.......
the MK4M3, has 72 moa total, the MK4 M1's 10x, have 90 moa total, MK4 M1-16X, has 140 moa total. as does the 20x.
The LRT's also have 90 moa total, All have 30mm tubes.
The MK4M3, IS a BDC scope with the proper dial, and will act accordingly with the RIGHT load.
Problem is, as Rex said, you gotta know the right load.
The dials are all wrong on the M3 series scopes.
For the loads they SAY they will work with.
One exception, the M118 dial ( which is no longer available).
Also, keep in mind, as you use windage, you lose ELEVATION adjustment.
ONE more reason to go tapered (insurance policy).
The point I was trying to make, is BUY the tapered base........you can't lose on this choice.....if you buy the standard.....as others, and myself have stated, you MAY get to do it twice.........and at $130.00 a shot, that's expensive.