Remington 700 stock

C

ChaseReynolds

New member
Today I took my Remington 700 SPS .308 and shot a hundred rounds through it. I was my first time shooting and it felt as if I was getting a lot of flex from the stock.

What have y'all experienced with this and what did you do to fix it? My accuracy wasn't off really. I was still shooting pretty good groups, it just interfered with me efficiently manipulating the bolt.

Let me know what if you have or know someone that has dealt with this.
 
Most all of the injection molded stocks will do that some. As long as everything fits right it doesn't effect accuracy enough to matter on a hunting rifle. If you are trying to shave that last 1/10" off your group size then you will need to buy a better stock.

Most all of my rifles that actually get hunted with are in McMillan Edge stocks. I like them better simply because they look better, fit better, are better finished, and mostly because they are about 1/2-3/4 lbs lighter than factory stocks. As much as 2 lbs lighter than the cheaper aftermarket stocks.

They are stiffer, but I've never noted any difference in my rifles accuracy after changing. For one thing I won't spend $500 on a stock for a rifle and hope it helps accuracy. The rifle has to prove it will shoot before I spend the money. If it won't shoot up to my standards it is sold.
 
I have two of the SPS Tactical AAC-SD's (don't ask..lol). The Hogue stocks are really weak on those. I had a lot of flex from them. I ended up stiffening the stock by using an epoxy to fill the lands in the stock. It did add some weight but only a few ounces. I would recommend buying a B&C medalist or McMillian. If you don't mind the extra cash go with a Manners Chassis.

You can also (beside the epoxy) use a dremel and cut the barrel channel a bit.
If it flexes enough to touch the barrel, it can definitely cause some accuracy issues.
 
ADL

My WallyWorld ADL flexes like a piece of licorice, but the rifle shoots well enough for what I do with it. But....if I wanted to enhance accuracy and repeatability in my Rem or other tupperware stocked rifle, I would add a top end synthetic first off. Well, I'd have good glass and trigger, too, but that is on my rifle already.
 
My dad always told me "it cost to go fast, how fast do you want to go?". Of course that was in my muscle car days.... It applies here too.

A good buddy of mine and one hell of a gunsmith built my 300WM. Trued 700 action,Manners T5A chassis, Timney trigger, Kreiger 24" 1-10" stainless barrel and custom muzzle brake. I topped it off with a NightForce ATACR. She is a pleasure to shoot with the recoil of a .243 or less and proven 1/4-3/8 MOA accuracy at 100 yards with a good operator behind her. While my poor ole eyes and reflexes get her to just under half MOA, she is a shooter. The problem is I have about $6k with bipod, sling, pelican case, and so on. So here is the big question, is taking a MOA or sub MOA gun to a 1/4-3/8 MOA gun, worth $3.5k? It can be done a lot cheaper. I have just as much fun punching paper with the basically stock SPS Tactical AAC-SD.

To me it was chasing a unicorn, turned out to be a thoroughbred, but to me it was still worth it. Most will say it isn't worth the money. Only you can decide how far to take it.
 
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My SPS stock seemed to flex and I suspected that it was the source of some inaccuracy.
I switched from the SPS factory stock to a Bell & Carlson Medalist pillar bedded stock and improved the accuracy by about 0.1 inches at 100 yards on average.

I switched out the gritty factory trigger with a Timney and improved another 0.15 inches.

The best 25 hand loads now average under 0.47 inches at 100 yards.
 
I've improved accuracy on injection-molded stocks by pillar-bedding and adequately free-floating them.

On some, I've also added epoxy-filling in the forends because some don't have X supports, only diaphragms, which don't provide adequate lateral stiffness. I foamed the cavities and filled the top 1/8" with epoxy.

Even one Model 7 stock that was split was repaired with a piece of bolt epoxied across the split and pillar-bedded. That rifle shot 1/2 moa with 140 gr. Core-Locts!!!
 
I tried bedding and free floating the stock that came with my SPS Varmint.
The bedding compound always eventually separated from the stock and the more material I removed from the barrel channel the more it flexed.
I ended up getting a take off H-S Precision Varmint stock on eBay for $200 and have been very happy with it. It feels and looks better not to mention that it groups much more consistently.
 
I bought a SPS Varmint for 300 meters and the stock seems not to fit to the heavy barrel, the system was not solid bedded. Therefore I changed to a stock from a 700 P what I could buy 2nd hand and now it is like a new gun.
 
Years back I was given a J.C. Higgins M50 rifle in 30-06 from a late friend. he'd made a nice stock for it and I hunted with it for years. One day I took a bad spill and the rifle's stock broke at the wrist. A few years later, quite a few in fact I came across a Buter Creek stock for a Mauser action for $50 at a gun show so it came home with me. A little bit of inletting work and glass bedding and the rile was a shooter again. I didn't like the "booming" every time I bumped into something so figured I'd fill the hole in the butt and barrel channel with something. Just had to figure out what? While at a hardware store, I saw this insulating foam that expanded after you inserted it into whatever cranny you wanted to fill so I gave it a try. First I filled up the butt and quickly got the buttplate back on before it oozed out all over everything. Then, I masked off the edges of the forearm and set the stock in my paded vice. I used two layers of black electical tape on the bottom of the barrel and some grease I had on hand to act as a release agent , shot the hollow barrel channel with the foam and quickly got the barreled action ito the stock. Ater the foam had time to stop expanding and was stiff enough to trim the excess off the forearm, I took care of that. I left it in the vice overnight and when I took it out of the vice the next dat, I used a black Sharpee pen to color where the tannish white color of that foam showed. I bolted the gun back together and with some loads I knew it liked went to the range. The gun shot better than ever and I'm thinking that foam in the forearm really made a difference. What extra weight the foam may have added seems to be neglibile.
A while back I bought a Winchester m70 Stainless Classic and the tupperware stock on that gun is the worst POS I've ever seen. The stock flexs like a snake on a hot griddle. Accuracy is barely good enough to hit the inside of a barn. I'm thinking of trying the same approach with this one but with the addition of a threaded steel rod in the forearm for addition stiffening. Jut have to get of my lazy read end and git-R-done. :(
Just thought you might want to give something likethat a try.
Paul B.
 
All stocks are just like barrels; they both flex when the round's fired. Stocks moreso than barrels. Like barrels, if the stock flexes the same for each shot, accuracy will not be impared.

I once had a Win. 70 featherweight .270 rebarreled to .300 Win. Mag and its receiver epoxy bedded. Its stock was somewhat flimsy; the fore end easily bent as did the buttstock. But it shot no worse than about 1 MOA at 1000 yards. Sometimes wish I'd kept it but a friend wanted a long range hunting rifle and he paid dearly for it.
 
I bought one of the XCR camo stocks off of eBay to keep from scraping up the wood furniture too badly when hunting with my son. The action is bedded and barrel is free floated, but I can twist the for end with my hand enough to make it touch the barrel with very little effort. It's a tack driver right now, so I'm not going to bother with it until I put the wood back on in a few years.
 
I tried bedding and free floating the stock that came with my SPS Varmint.
The bedding compound always eventually separated from the stock and the more material I removed from the barrel channel the more it flexed.
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Whenever I add bedding compound to an injection-molded stock, I drill holes and roughen surfaces to achieve as much of a "mechanical" bond as possible. It seems to work fine.
 
Bell and Carlson Medalist. Relatively inexpensive, bedding block, rigid etc. Makes a huge difference in the way the gun feels and shoots. The SPS stock are crap, I have two of them and can't give them away, my boys made toys out of them. You can spend a ton more on a stock and certainly get more features but the BC is the least expensive option to get close.

Both rifles that I have used them on are sub 1/2" MOA guns, I think I have about $1500.00/per in the guns, not $6K.
 
Picked up my Remington 700 SPS Tactical AAC-SD yesterday. I had the new furniture waiting for it's arrival. The original stock is a piece of crap.

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Bell & Carlson M40 stock rocks. :D

Saltydog, I have right at $1,000,00 is this rifle (not counting the scope) and it better shoot 1/4" shot strings or I'm going to be upset. My "OLD" 30-06 in the same stock does. :D
 
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Now that is a sexy AAC-SD... I love it. I have yet to see an SPS Tactical AAC-SD that wasn't a shooter.... Everyone I have seen or heard about are well under 1 MOA guns. Jerry which NF is that? I just put the ATACR on my 300WM. I am really loving it.
 
This is how I fixed my SPS Varmint in .308.

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H-S Precision Varmint stock I got on eBay for $200. It also has a full length bedding block. It is very ridged and quite comfortable.
I have been contemplating a Bell & Carlson M40 stock just because I like the look.
I wish I could afford a Night Force scope. Maybe some day soon.
 
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