Remington 700 newb: scopes, mounts and bases

R

rustygong

Inactive
Hello all I'm an old timer deer maven, but to the chagrin of many of you I have been an iron sights guy for almost 40 years in the woods. No glass. Most of that is b/c the deer are well inside 100 yards and I can acquire my target much faster with open sights. Well, time is catching up and I need some scope help so a friend has given me access to a few different scopes. Leupold, Nikon and Burris. I will be hunting some new areas this fall that put most of the deer in the 150-250 range and even in my younger days that was a shot I'd of never taken with irons.

So. 700 short action in 30-06 has been my go to. I'm actually grabbing a new 700 in 308 soon. I have a couple of scopes I can put on, but my question is what is the simplest way to go about wading through the maze of options here. One piece rings, 2 piece, bases etc. Does anyone make an integrated ring/mount combo I can just slap on there and not mess with bedding/lapping? Or is is not that simple? Sorry to be such a dummy and if it seems that way I really am:/ I mean I'm just stepping out of the ramped iron sight world in 2016.

Thanks for any help you can lend
 
I use a one piece mount & lapped rings from Iron Brigade Armory. Just let them know what scope for ring height, so bolt will clear. Price is up there
 
One of my longer kills was with 3X at 350 yards. The shot seemed like a "gimme" at the time. :) (3-9x40 dialed down.)

I've always preferred two-piece mounts. Four screws are stronger against recoil than the three-screw one-piece mount.

I've never had the first sign of a problem with Weaver rings and bases on any rifle. Right at 4,000 rounds through my pet '06.

But Conetrols are a lot "purtier"--and pricier.
 
A 30-06 would be a long action, most 308's are short action, but some have been made on long actions.

Any Weaver, or weaver style base is fine.

http://swfa.com/Burris-Xtreme-Tactical-2-Piece-Base-P6126.aspx

Same with rings, Weaver or Weaver style will work. But I think these look a little better and they still aren't expensive.

http://swfa.com/Burris-Zee-1-Rings-P1284.aspx

Low rings will USUALLY work with front objectives up to 40mm. In rare cases you might need medium rings. Anything over 40mm and you'll need medium rings.

This is what I use personally. Easy to mount, lightweight and actually stronger than most steel mounts since the base and lower ring mount are 1 piece.

http://swfa.com/Talley-Lightweight-Aluminum-1-Scopemount-P2798.aspx

I'd avoid anything with dovetails. They can work, but are expensive, heavy, and really need to be mounted by someone who knows what they are doing. You'd have to work at it to mess up any of the others listed.

I've NEVER had to lap any type of rings.
 
Use the lowest ring height which allows a comfortable cheek weld with the stock comb. Set the eye relief so you don't strain your neck to achieve a full view through the scope. After those things are set, practice mounting the rifle and immediately seeing your target through the scope. Head bobbing, doddering, or sliding back and forth on the stock are a no-no. Learn to mount the rifle and get your eye in line with the optic plane of the scope.
My younger Grandson was having intermittent accuracy/POI problems which I finally determined to be caused by inconsistent head position resulting in POI shifts. Adjusting the cheek rest on the stock brought his eye in consistent alignment with the scope center and solved his problems.
 
rustygong said:
I have a couple of scopes I can put on, but my question is what is the simplest way to go about wading through the maze of options here.
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well it will always be a matter of opinion, but I went with the Warne one piece pictanny rail and Warne rings. The reason for the pictanny is it offers any option in rings from any company and the ring height is really the only difficult part to decide on. Swapping ~$30 rings if you get it wrong is easy, simple and doesn’t require lapping... you don’t have to re-mount the base ever again.

I chose the full length base over the two piece for strength and adjustability, not that I’m clumsy but it is stronger if bumped and you have more options for mounting the scopes eye relief. That said, nothing wrong with 2 piece bases, you just get one position for the rings if that works out for your scope.

If your doing this yourself, you will want to buy an inch/lbs torque wrench.
 
Ring height has more to do with the objective bell clearing the barrel. Keep in mind that for a bolt action such as the M700, a one piece base may hinder any finger work you may have to do if a round gets sideways during feeding. I pretty much stay with the two piece base. If you have the urge to change out scopes for the same rifle, a quick disconnect type affair is an option. I have two scopes that I regularly put on my M70 375 H&H, and I have the Leupold QD bases and rings. Never had a problem with a return to zero. The Warne QD set-up is nice and reliable as well. I recently purchased the M700 VLS in .223 and have installed the Warne rings and bases, although not the QD rings.

Always go with quality rings and bases. If you go cheap, you will regret it. Good quality products can be had that won't break the bank.
 
KodaBear said:
Ring height has more to do with the objective bell clearing the barrel. Keep in mind that for a bolt action such as the M700, a one piece base may hinder any finger work you may have to do if a round gets sideways during feeding.
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I thought about this at the time but decided I wanted more options to position the rings, I like to spread them out as much as possible. Maybe its my long action but I feel I have plenty of finger room in case of any feeding issues.

(I went with Warne medium height rings because the bolt barely cleared the scope with low height...)
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My Remington 700 guns as well as others generally sport Leupold mounts simply because when I owned a gun shop we sold Leupold and when we sold the business I ended up with a pile of Leupold mounts and rings. I do lap and align my rings. When installing mounts, the bases I use Locktite Blue (242) and simply torque the rings to specifications.

I never noticed much difference in mounts and rings until you get into some of the larger belted magnum calibers. Then I always preferred steel over aluminum with top end bases and rings as well as a scope that could take the punishing recoil and shock.

Ron
 
I like the DNZ Gamereaper mounts for a one piece solid scope mount ring combo, they're a tad pricey but it's all together.
My son has them on 3 rifles and wouldn't try anything else, they are solid and easy to install.
 
Does anyone make an integrated ring/mount combo I can just slap on there and not mess with bedding/lapping?
Click to expand...

I didn't see where anyone answered your question...
There are a number of companies that make integrated bases and rings-but due to all the different types of receivers, they're designed to mount to a picatinny rail and not directly to the receiver. Not to say no one makes one for the 700, perhaps there is- but if so, I can all but guarantee it'll cost as much as the rifle.

I have always preferred one-piece bases and always go with a down-angle base which helps with longer range shots on scopes that are vertically "challenged".
Unless there's a problem with setup, a 10 or even 20 m.o.a. rail will not preclude zeroing at 100 yards. I see "no downside", to a "down angle" base for most applications- and the benefit of more "up" elevation adjustment.
 
I like the DNZ Gamereaper mounts for a one piece solid scope mount ring combo, they're a tad pricey but it's all together.
My son has them on 3 rifles and wouldn't try anything else, they are solid and easy to install.
Click to expand...

I agree. I like the looks of small thin 2 piece mounts and I wouldnt have a rail on any of my rifles.
The DNZ is bulky looking to me but they are solid as can be and no lapping needed. Low for 40mm and med for 50mm on 700's .. Cheapest Ive found them is wal marts web site. ($45ish).
 
I would recommend Talley lightweight rings. The base and rings are 1 solid piece of metal, eliminating one of points of weakness in mounting a scope on a rifle. For a hunting rifle at the range you stated, I see no need for a rail with additional MOA built in.
 
There was a time when I wouldn't consider anything but a Badger Ordnance Scope Base. After trying the Evolution Gun Works version in aluminum I've changed my ways. But I still think Burris Signature Rings are the best rings out there. No slippage, no scratch marks on the tube, and plenty of adjustment with the optional offset ring inserts. No lapping needed either.

Examples

Custom .260 Remington Model 700

260Remington.jpg


Savage .308 Winchester 10FLP

Savage10FLPRifle.jpg


Tikka T3 .308 Winchester with EGW Aluminum Base/Burris Signature Rings

TikkaT3withEGWBaseandBurrisRings.jpg


Heck, I even use them on my M1A!

M1ALeftSide.jpg


And a Smith & Wesson Model 29! Got to be tough to keep a Ultra Dot from slipping!

SampW%20629%20with%20Ultra%20Dot.jpg


Okay, I'm getting off my soap box! :D
 
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