Remington 700 bolt swapping

WWWJD

New member
Hey fellers,
I just bought (yet to receive) a 700-AAC-SD with the 1:10 twist threaded barrel. I currently have a 700 SPS Tactical 1:12 (or what's left of one; heavily accessorized).

One of those accessories is the badger ordnance bolt knob on the 700 SPS. If I wanted to move the bolt from the SPS to the AAC and vice versa, is there anything I should be on the look out for? I know that headspace could be an issue. I don't have any go, no-go gauges, but I'm pretty handy with dial calipers.

I think... correct me if I'm wrong... that if I take a piece of fire formed brass that hasn't been resized yet from the SPS, put it in the AAC and follow that with the SPS bolt, I could get a good idea of a go/no-go by feeling the force required by bolt lock up. Is this a safe assumption? This would be mirrored on the SPS with the AAC's bolt.

Thinking this is an easy way to make this rifle a 1:10 without any trips to the smithy, and walking away with two fully functioning rifles.

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Thanks in advance for your thoughts,
 
That may tell you if its to tight but it may be loose, Head space gauges are cheap compared to blowing up you gun. You may get by but I would have it checked .
 
Yea I thought about it after I posted; came to the same realization. Gauges are cheap; about $60. So follow up question; assuming that a problem is found, how is that fixed? Chamber reamer? Just curious.
 
If it's too short -- chamber reamer
It it's too long -- it requires you turn turn down the shoulder, turn in the barrel, then chamber reamer.
 
Mehavey is right.

If it doesn't close on the go-gauge, then chamber reamer it (slowly and test frequently). If it closes on the no-go guage, then remove the barrel, cut some from the back of the barrel and relieve the shoulder to the proper dimension and then if necessary, chamber reamer it.

BTW, cheaper to replacing the knob. Cut off the old one, weld a new one on. ;)
 
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