Hey fellers,
I just bought (yet to receive) a 700-AAC-SD with the 1:10 twist threaded barrel. I currently have a 700 SPS Tactical 1:12 (or what's left of one; heavily accessorized).
One of those accessories is the badger ordnance bolt knob on the 700 SPS. If I wanted to move the bolt from the SPS to the AAC and vice versa, is there anything I should be on the look out for? I know that headspace could be an issue. I don't have any go, no-go gauges, but I'm pretty handy with dial calipers.
I think... correct me if I'm wrong... that if I take a piece of fire formed brass that hasn't been resized yet from the SPS, put it in the AAC and follow that with the SPS bolt, I could get a good idea of a go/no-go by feeling the force required by bolt lock up. Is this a safe assumption? This would be mirrored on the SPS with the AAC's bolt.
Thinking this is an easy way to make this rifle a 1:10 without any trips to the smithy, and walking away with two fully functioning rifles.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts,
I just bought (yet to receive) a 700-AAC-SD with the 1:10 twist threaded barrel. I currently have a 700 SPS Tactical 1:12 (or what's left of one; heavily accessorized).
One of those accessories is the badger ordnance bolt knob on the 700 SPS. If I wanted to move the bolt from the SPS to the AAC and vice versa, is there anything I should be on the look out for? I know that headspace could be an issue. I don't have any go, no-go gauges, but I'm pretty handy with dial calipers.
I think... correct me if I'm wrong... that if I take a piece of fire formed brass that hasn't been resized yet from the SPS, put it in the AAC and follow that with the SPS bolt, I could get a good idea of a go/no-go by feeling the force required by bolt lock up. Is this a safe assumption? This would be mirrored on the SPS with the AAC's bolt.
Thinking this is an easy way to make this rifle a 1:10 without any trips to the smithy, and walking away with two fully functioning rifles.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts,