Remington 1100 not cycling

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DOCSpanky

New member
A buddy brought me his Remington 1100 he just aquired from a friend. It will fire one shot but in no way attempts to cycle another round. I can blindfolded strip a Browning but the Remington setup is a mystery to me. Any obvious, "Oh I know what that is or could be!", would be greatly appreciated. He is on hard financial times, and this gun was basically given to him so he could be included in our hunt club, and a trip to a real gunsmith for repair is probably out of the question. Any quick tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated. :)
 
The 1100 is basically a very simple design. A thorough cleaning would be the first item, lubricating with Breakfree CLP. The gas system has a piston/seal arrangement that may need to be replaced. The parts are less than $20 from Brownells. To see a detailed breakdown procedure for cleaning and parts replacement, look in the following link:

http://refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?s=&threadid=70691

Good luck!

Clemson
 
:eek:

That is way more complicated than my browning, but we will field strip and clean it tomorrow and I will report back on how that works.
 
Safety Tip !!

DO NOT run your finger along the left side of receiver! RAZOR Sharp and will cut you deep!

Oh ...Automatic Trans Fluid really works great on gas guns for lube... :)

Pipe Cleaners for gas ports...I use the ones with bristles for stubborn ports , follow up with regular if need.

[Dill's pipe cleaners makes the regular ( yellow pkg) and the bristle type ( red pkg)]
 
First clean and lube the gun. If it still fails to function properly and you cannot afford a gunsmith, go to the local skeet range, find someone who shoots an 1100 and ask him to look at it.

Shotgunners are gregarious and always full of Bul....er ....advice. You will always get help at the range, some of it actually usefull. Between five or six pontificators someone will have the correct solution.



Someone on this forum once gave advice on using cheap o rings from home depot to replace the expensive rings from remington. If you need new O rings :D
 
The most likely cause would be the two gas ports in the bottom of the barrel. Make sure they are clean. If the gun hasn't been thoroughly cleaned in a while, they will fill up for sure.

You can replace the o-ring with rubber if you want. The factory ones last longer.

Oh, and sm and I learned the same lesson about the razor sharp edge. If you ignore it, you will bleed. :eek:

Good luck.
 
Make sure the gas rings are in the right order. IIRC the flat base ring is first with the cone shaped one fitting into the flat base and the O-ring on top of them all. And like everyone else said, clean the gun and gas ports.
 
K80Geoff- Before "Internet Tapley Tips" ...umm the red rubber bands worked better than the green ones...then *ahem* someone remembered there was a "O" ring for a SX1 in his wallet. Granted some thought the "circle" in his wallet was someting else. ;)

Ledbetter- Always nice to meet another "blood brother" . :D

Leaving a little ATF fluid in the gas ports helps with keeping the fouling down ...extends the number of rds the ports need attn.

;) What is this "clean" folks speak of ? Whaddya mean a 1100 won't go 1K rds before needing attn. Only reason I took it apart and "gave attention" was rain. Sure the rain stopped...after MY squad had finished. :p
 
doused thouroughly in clp, no effect. How do I get to the O-ring? I saw now way to remove that action bar sleeve??? I saw the o-rings on ebay. I am led to believe that the o-ring must be the problem as they gas ports are clear, it just refuses to try and cycle at all. :confused:
 
BINGO!

He is missing the 3 pieces of the seal assembly.
Went to gunstore today and bought all parts and 2 spare O-rings for less that $20. BANG BANG!!!!

Thanks for all you guys help. AS ALWAYS I knew this would be the place to find the awnser.

THANKS! :D
 
Glad to hear you've got 'er working already.
For future reference, to remove the rest of the sliding gas assembly/arms/bolt, once you take off the forearm and barrel, just pull the cocking handle right out of the bolt body (it is only held in by a spring loaded ball- just give it a yank and it will pop out.) and you can then slide the whole works out the front of the reciever and off the magazine tube. Also, unless the design has changed recently, I thought there should only be one gas port under the barrel and inside the ring thingy. The rubber O-ring may wear out with time, but should last many years unless you scrape it during disassembly or pinch it during reassembly. Despite the lube recommendations given here on the gas assembly/magazine tube, we have never had good luck this way. The burning powder gasses turn oil into a thick black sludge, and cold weather in the duck blind can also stiffen it up. We usually just wipe it completely clean and dry, and make sure to clean it immediately if things get wet. Some dry lube such as graphite may be a better option. FWIW.
 
Regarding gas ports.

My 1100 barrels have two small ports for the 2 3/4" barrels and one larger port for the 3" barrels.

FWIW.

Mike
 
9mmMike-
Thanks for the clarification. We have only ever owned 3" guns; (4 of 'em) so I didn't realize the 2 3/4" guns were different.
 
1 other tip for those who chop down their 1100 barrels for home or self defense. You will need to drill out the gas ports to make them slightly larger. Basicly start with a drill bit thats just a tad bit bigger than the gas port and work your way up until the gun functions. I've done 3 of them now.
 
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