Remington 11 Stuck Forestock

T

The Rattler

New member
I took my 12 gauge Model 11 out for its twice per year 25 rounds of trap. I have field cleaned this gun many times. This time, however, I am unable to remove either the barrel or forestock. The forestock is slightly breaking at the end of the receiver. It cracked in 2 places & a small chip is missing. It appears that the forestock is slightly down too far on the receiver.

I am aware of the propensity of Model 11s to crack at the base of the forestock, and I had a crack repaired there about 1 1/2 years ago.

I don't mind buying another forestock and refinishing it and the buttstock, if that is needed. But, my immediate problem is that I can't get the forestock off an remove the barrel. After having difficulty with it, I removed the magazine spring. After that, the barrel will no longer push down even though the spring has been replaced.

If age is pertinent, I was told by a former gunsmith it was manufactured in the 30s, but the safety button is inside the trigger guard. I recently read that location of the safety button means it was manufactured before 1926.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

FYI, I ran this at another brand specific Forum & received no responses. If you can help, I will appreciate it.
 
Your post is a bit confusing: Replacing the magazine spring, which is inside the mag tube would have no bearing on removing the barrel, unless you put the spring back and forgot to put the follower in first. In that case the spring would be fouling the innards of the gun.

You also said that you can't even push the barrel down, which could mean something is broken inside, causing the action to jam.

Can you cock the action and leave the breech open? If so, try the following:

This isn't a particularly good solution, and I one that I would approach with extreme caution, but you might clamp your barrel tightly between two thick pieces of wood, rubber or leather in a vise, then gently tap on the end of the magazine tube with a rubber mallet or a piece of soft pine to see if it you can dislodge the barrel from the action. This should bring the forend along with it.
 
No WD 40

Thank you for taking the time to respond.

I do not use WD 40. I only use CLP (occasionally Hopes # 9 or another conventional solvent followed by gun oil) & field clean with brushes & patches after every use.

I appreciate your thoughtful response. However, I am concerned that this problem is over my head. It appears not to be a common problem. I have decided to take this gun to my gunsmith to figure out. He is quite capable and performs Remington warranty work.

Thanks again.
 
You are removing the knurled nut that threads into the magazine tube aren't you? Once the nut is removed and the release depressed it should just pull apart unless it is rusty....still so reason to take a few hundred dollar shotgun to a gunsmith when all you need is to apply some penetrating fluid.
 
if im understanding this right, it sounds like the forend is cracked and expanded a little causing it to slide back over the receiver a little, and now its kind of clamping itself on there?

i would try lightly tapping it with a rubber mallet. careful not to crack the forend more
 
I appreciate your thoughtful response. However, I am concerned that this problem is over my head. It appears not to be a common problem. I have decided to take this gun to my gunsmith to figure out. He is quite capable and performs Remington warranty work.
Click to expand...

That's probably the best idea. I was also "Remington factory recommended service" at one time, and most Model 11s were just in for a clean and oil. The only Model 11 that ever came in for an actual repair was one with a broken lifter spring that had once belonged to Herbert Hoover. (His grandson brought it in.)
 
You need to replace your safety sear then, because it is getting wedged on the link as your bolt went too far forward and jammed it up. Pull your barrel off slowly close the bolt and see if the bolt gets caught again.
 
Problem Defined

Thanks for all your responses.

I took the gun to my gunsmith. It turns out that it was operator error that caused the problem;i.e., I made a mistake. To adjust for shooting light loads, I placed the Friction Ring next to receiver instead of Compression Ring. I've done this many times using a number of YouTube videos as a guide. This time, I did it from memory that, of course, was flawed. It highlights the need to understand purpose of each part one disassembles for cleaning and lubing, or otherwise.
 
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