Remington 11 Load Tuning

E

Evyl Robot

New member
Hey, all!

My brother and I have been playing around with my Grandpa's old Remington Model 11. With lighter loads, it doesn't reliably cycle the action. With heavier loads, this has not been an issue. I understand that these can be 'tuned' to different loads by adding or removing the spacers on the buffer spring? (I'm sorry if I'm not using the right terminology or don't make sense in the least.) If anybody can provide some insight/tips/advice on doing this, I would highly appreciate it!
 
It's been quite a while, but the rings and such can be switched around to work better with a given end of the power spectrum. Same deal as the A-5,

Maybe someone more current than I can help.
 
Look at the ring (usually) on top of the spring. Some guns will have an arrow indicating to flip the ring one way for heavy loads, the other lor light loads.
 
Here we go again. For field loads, in this order: friction ring, steel ring with taper forward, then spring. For trap loads, friction ring, spring, then the steel ring so it doesn't get lost. Two important points: the split in the bronze ring and the split in the steel spring ring around it MUST be lined up or the friction ring won't work. Lubrication is critical, a couple of drops of oil or gun grease smeared all over the mag tube then throughly wiped off with a clean dry rag is sufficient. Too little and the friction ring binds causing failure to eject, too much lube and the friction ring doesn't function at all causing battering of parts and failure. Here endeth the lesson. Goatwhiskers the Elder
 
Huh. It appears that this particular gun is missing the friction ring. That could explain all of the cycling issues. it looks like they aren't hard to come by, and they aren't expensive. Thanks for the help everybody!
 
Robot, finding the rings can be a pain depending on the gauge of the gun. Some of the Browning ones work, parts are hit and miss.
 
e-gunparts for whatever parts you need. Best to get the number from the site and call so you can talk to a warm breathing human. Based on many moons of experience, I suggest that you also change the recoil spring and the action spring behind the bolt. I have seen far too many Rems and Brownings with the rear of the receiver cracked out because the springs had gotten weak. Without checking my book, I think the bronze ring and the accompanying spring come separatly, be sure you get both. Here endeth the lesson. Goatwhiskers the Elder
 
Holy crap

Dear gun gods, i do not know how this thing works, i just want to gather information on my model 11 that was made in 1912. i typically shoot dove or trap and thats about all. I am looking for a few minor parts to potentially rejuvinate the firing machanism. any help is appreciated and my apologies if this is the wrong post or thread or whatever, I bow to those who are more experienced and more wise than I. Yes I know here we go some idiot actually trying to learn something. Thanks to all, if any for the input!
 
Yep, that's the friction piece. It requires the friction spring around it, part number 55830-01. This is the one where the split in the friction piece and the split in the spring need to be lined up in order for the part to function as designed. If it is missing you also need the friction ring, part #55800. This is the steel ring with a taper on one side that always faces toward the friction assembly. Here endeth the lesson. Goatwhiskers the Elder
Evyl, PM me if you have problems, I'll help.
 
Goatwhiskers, I really appreciate it! I'm afraid this is another one of those guns that my bro and I are going to have to get a duplicate of so we can each have one!
 
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