rem nma bolt stop install

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dr1445

New member
I have a 36 lyman/uberti rem nma with a bolt stop issue, causing a time problem. The bolt stop has been ground short where it rides over the hammer, causing the bolt to drop early, the bolt stop screw hole has been chamfered to make alignment with the screw easy, making a sloppy fit. I have a new stop ready to install but it is to wide to drop into the cylinder slot. I have reviewed a how to on the 1860 stop, where material is removed from the stop where it extends from the frame on the left side only. Is that the case for the rem nma also, just removing material from the left side of the stop where it extends from the frame?
 
Check the cam too and make sure its not chewed up. Taking away matl. from the action side of the bolt will help lighten the spring tension the arm exerts on the hammer. After fitting to the cyl. notches, then time the bolt.
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
Thanks, it looks like I have a plan. Now I just need to execute it, as soon as I cure my 1860 of its cap sucking habit.
 
Install a cap post and forget about cap jams. In fact, you can see them flying off to the side in Brushys video of his '51 . At the end of the vid, while fanning, slow mo lets you see them flying to the side. See the vid on my website.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
yesterday i filled the hammer slot with epoxy and filed it down this am, now the 1860 is ready to try it out. i should be able to give it a try on friday and see how it goes. thanks for the tip on a cap post, i wasn’t aware of that fix. first i will let the epoxy mod play out and see how it goes.
 
dr1445:

You would really do well to visit Mike's site and entertain his services. I'm a noob and have a Pietta 1851 Navy steel .36 and have traded responses with Goon via forums, email, and an actual phone call (at his behest). He is both very friendly, polite, and knowledgeable (oops: that's not both, that's thrice). I really do not intend to shoot my revolver but have learned an enormous amount from Mike concerning arbor length, bolt fit, wedge fit, barrel fitting, et al.

You all will laugh, but my agreement with my wife is that I have no BP/Pyro, caps, nor balls in the house as long as I can work on it, fondle it, and carry it around like a club. I would like to purchase additional parts to create several variations (some not so historical!). She's not a gun lover as am I. My eyes are very bad (but can still hit soda cans at 50' with my 1911's .45 and .22), and they stay tucked away (tee-hee) until needed.

You go, dr1445!

Jim
 
i put 4 cylinders [20 rounds] through the 1860 with cci and rem caps after the epoxy fix. for now it looks like 100% good. 20 rounds is not many, but good for now.
 
i got the bolt stop stoned down to match the cylinder slots. i left the timing untouched as the bolt drops adjacent to the cylinder slots. fired at the range today, no more lead shavings jamming the cylinder rotation. the fix is in. thanks 45dragoon for the sage advice.
 
Thanks dr., glad you got the bolt working. It should be fully on the cylinder before the notch. If it's dropping on part of the notch, it will start peening the side of the notch and close it up.

If the caps dont stick to the hammer anymore (on the '60), that's great but I don't think they (or fragments) will stay out of the action with true reliability. So far, the cap post seems to be most reliable. At least that's an option for you.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
yes it is fully on the cylinder when it drops right next to the slot. at this point "if it is not broke don't fix it". the original bolt it was dropping about 3/8" before the slot and the entire bolt had been thinned to the cylinder notch thickness. i might try thinning the arm that rides the hammer cam.
the 1860? time will tell the story on cap jams, then your experience will no doubt prove out the need for a post install.
 
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