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rem 870 28" wingmaster ok for trap/skeet?
- Thread starter hoteisama
- Start date
Captain Bligh
New member
I'm no trap expert. But my 870 with a 28 inch barrel busts clay pigeons just fine. I have not received the first complaint from a clay pigeon that preferred being turned to dust by a 30 inch barrel.
My guess is that it will have more to do than you than two more inches of barrel.
But, then what do I know?
Randy
My guess is that it will have more to do than you than two more inches of barrel.
But, then what do I know?
Randy
Generally it's longer barrels for trap and shorter for skeet. 28" is just fine. Put a modified or tighter choke tube in for trap, improved cylinder or more open for skeet.
The games are quite different. I shoot both along with sporting clays and enjoy them all. Using a pump is an added challenge with doubles but I know some fine skeet shooters using pumps.
Don't spring for an extra two inches of barrel. Spend the money on shells instead.
The games are quite different. I shoot both along with sporting clays and enjoy them all. Using a pump is an added challenge with doubles but I know some fine skeet shooters using pumps.
Don't spring for an extra two inches of barrel. Spend the money on shells instead.
I shoot hand-trap with my 20" barrel'd 870's and the clays bust just fine. What choke are you using on the 28"? If it is too open, you'll have to be quick to get 'em before they put much distance on ya. That's my experience at hand-tossed anyway.
Dave McC told me to just get and shoot alot and that's I've been doing. Going again this Sat AM!
It is a very satisfying way to spend some quality time with good friends.
Mike
Dave McC told me to just get and shoot alot and that's I've been doing. Going again this Sat AM!
It is a very satisfying way to spend some quality time with good friends.
Mike
Jim Watson
New member
Don't worry, you are set up fine for trap. I am shooting my 1100 more with the 28" barrel than the 30" these days, and the 32" O/U seldom gets out at all.
If you stay with it you might want to look at a trap stock for your 870. It will have a higher comb so you can see straightaway birds as you break them while rising instead of having to blot them out with the muzzle as you are probably doing now.
Skeet has doubles in every round (Trap doubles are shot as a separate event.) You will have to be an expert shucker to get them comfortably. Not that it can't be done, pumps were popular for skeet at one time, it's just that an auto or O/U leaves you with one less thing to worry about. But give it a try, all you would need is another barrel. Skeet targets are close, an improved cylinder barrel is the most you would want for that. Most skeet barrels have even less constriction than IC and some have none at all.
If you stay with it you might want to look at a trap stock for your 870. It will have a higher comb so you can see straightaway birds as you break them while rising instead of having to blot them out with the muzzle as you are probably doing now.
Skeet has doubles in every round (Trap doubles are shot as a separate event.) You will have to be an expert shucker to get them comfortably. Not that it can't be done, pumps were popular for skeet at one time, it's just that an auto or O/U leaves you with one less thing to worry about. But give it a try, all you would need is another barrel. Skeet targets are close, an improved cylinder barrel is the most you would want for that. Most skeet barrels have even less constriction than IC and some have none at all.
Trap stocks for 870s are easy to find. Remington carries them, so do all the aftermarket vendors like Wenig's, Boyd, etc. But....
I see lots of good work done with standard stocks on 870s, 12s, and so on. The trick is to have a shotgun that prints a nice pattern a little above Point Of Aim. You want about 60% of the pellets hitting above POA, or more, and 40% or less below.
Of course, stock fit's crucial.
Actually, I like my field guns to hit like this also. We shoot more flying stuff that's rising than falling, and it builds in a bit of vertical lead.
Pattern your shotgun as it is, and see where it's hitting. If you want a bit more elevation for that 60-40 pattern, the stock can be shimmed or a glue on pad like the Cheek Eez can be added. A rule of thumb for stock fit is that a 1/8" change in the stock will move the pattern 4 inches at 40 yards. Since we usually break our birds at 35 yards or so for 16 yard singles in trap, this can help us "Dial it in".
As for long bbls, the advantage has more to do with balance and swing than longer sight radius. Remember, we're looking at the target, not the sights, when we shoot flying. That 28" bbl will work well, if it prints like it ought to. A slightly more muzzle heavy shotgun is easier to keep moving.
My little overpublicized parts 870 has a 21" bbl, and I score a bird or two lower each round with it than I do my 30" bbled 870 TB claycruncher. I have to work a bit to keep it moving.
HTH, and ask any more quesitons you have. The only dumb questions are those nobody asks...
I see lots of good work done with standard stocks on 870s, 12s, and so on. The trick is to have a shotgun that prints a nice pattern a little above Point Of Aim. You want about 60% of the pellets hitting above POA, or more, and 40% or less below.
Of course, stock fit's crucial.
Actually, I like my field guns to hit like this also. We shoot more flying stuff that's rising than falling, and it builds in a bit of vertical lead.
Pattern your shotgun as it is, and see where it's hitting. If you want a bit more elevation for that 60-40 pattern, the stock can be shimmed or a glue on pad like the Cheek Eez can be added. A rule of thumb for stock fit is that a 1/8" change in the stock will move the pattern 4 inches at 40 yards. Since we usually break our birds at 35 yards or so for 16 yard singles in trap, this can help us "Dial it in".
As for long bbls, the advantage has more to do with balance and swing than longer sight radius. Remember, we're looking at the target, not the sights, when we shoot flying. That 28" bbl will work well, if it prints like it ought to. A slightly more muzzle heavy shotgun is easier to keep moving.
My little overpublicized parts 870 has a 21" bbl, and I score a bird or two lower each round with it than I do my 30" bbled 870 TB claycruncher. I have to work a bit to keep it moving.
HTH, and ask any more quesitons you have. The only dumb questions are those nobody asks...
Thanks, Dave. I do have some questions if you don't mind. I checked out the trap shooting fundamentals at the Remington website. I could not understand the foot positioning based on the pictures they have for each station. I usually just stand facing the trap house. I guess i still have a lot to learn. I still catch myself stopping to pull the trigger ( bad habit from shooting at stationary targets). Also, i have to get away from focusing on the front sight (another bad habit from shooting rifles and pistols). Thanks again.
Those probs are not unique to you,Hote. Learning to shift your focus fro sight to target is one very common adjustment we have to make, one reason why I recommend shotgun beginners shoot just one shotgun for a while. Once learned, it's easy to switch.I mount, glance down to made sure the beads are lined up right, and SHIFT MY FOCUS and vision to the area where I'll see the bird. I call, and as I follow it with my eyes, the bbl follows also. It's easier to do than describe...
And, WITH A WEAPON KNOWN TO BE EMPTY, get some dry firing in by mounting in your house and moving the weapon along a straight line,like where wall and ceiling meet.Keep it moving.WORK at it until it feels natural.
Foot position is subtle but important. Position(For RH) yourself with your R foot a little more forward on Posts 1 and 2, bring it back a bit on 3, and further back on 4 and 5. This means your body can twist for those hard left screamers on 1, and hard rights on 5, and everything between.
HTH...
And, WITH A WEAPON KNOWN TO BE EMPTY, get some dry firing in by mounting in your house and moving the weapon along a straight line,like where wall and ceiling meet.Keep it moving.WORK at it until it feels natural.
Foot position is subtle but important. Position(For RH) yourself with your R foot a little more forward on Posts 1 and 2, bring it back a bit on 3, and further back on 4 and 5. This means your body can twist for those hard left screamers on 1, and hard rights on 5, and everything between.
HTH...